That tool is for this kind of ring:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...e81d427032.jpg

You need something like this: https://www.micromark.com/Magiclasp-Forceps or pictured
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...caa06fe739.jpg
At Micro Mark

Have you used this tool to remove Fox piston pin snap rings?

I have a needle nose pliars that I ground down small enough to do it. They only work if the tang is still on the circlip, a sharp needle will also get them out with some deft prying.

SUCCESS! I used your suggestion of "sharp needle," taking two large T pins (for building) and while clamping the engine case in place, simply used the two pins like snap ring pliers and was able to remove the pin snap ring.
If ONLY I had tried this before all the grief and buying a tool I didn't need! :(
Removing the stuck piston pin was another challenge, but I managed to get it out.
One down, ONE TO GO -

How the F@#)&%^@%# do I remove the front prop hub?
I can see it is retained with a split collet, but having lubricated and heated, and then prying until I thought I might break my two prybars (screw drivers), all I have managed to do is F*** up the front of the case!
Fox Engines always had a reputation of being "serviceable" by the modeler, but this Eagle seems to be the EXCEPTION.
Any ideas on how to get the prop backing plate to slide forward so I can remove the crankshaft?

In thinking about this further, I believe I will have to buy or make a PULLER.

The Posi Loc 102 is $76.02 at Amazon with free shipping. I've pulled some Saito prop drivers that were scary tight.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3f7ef064d0.jpg
Posi Loc 103 puller, an expensive solution.

I use a Craftsman battery terminal puller from Sears. A good quality puller costs around 15 to 20 bucks. Most auto parts stores sell them.

CR

Glad to see you found a simplistic way to get the job done. I've done similar on my other model engines and motorcycles. And, also did like you, bought a tool that did not do the job. All may not be lost, that other tool may come in handy for another job.

Really can't help you with what other tool. On some of my other engines, I've put a trash nut over the prop shaft threads, and tapped gently with a hammer. Just thinking, does it have to move the other way to loosen and remove the key, then comes off? (I don't have your particular engine, so just speculating .... :))

Regarding some of the cosmetic damage, I've dressed an OS Max .40-FP and an Enya .35 cases with a fine file, removing the burrs. What looked bad starting cleaned up reasonably nice. If your engine will have a prop spinner added, may hide the nicks.

Usually, it is the owner of the engine that notices the cosmetic issues more than the observers. Once in flight, no one will notice the difference (unless engine is for static display). Good luck on getting your engine restored. :D

Happy to report SUCCESS all the way around.
I purchased a cheapo gear puller and my son modified the jaws to fit perfectly behind the prop hub.
NOTE: Perhaps it was just my engine, or perhaps its all (old) Fox Eagles, but my son said that the prop hub literally released with a BANG!
There was no "easing" it off. He was twisting, twisting, then BOOM! It released.
Now working on cleaning up and cherry-ing this Eagle out...
Will post pix when completed.

Oh, and one other note: The puller would NOT remain centered on the front of the prop shaft so my son had to grind a small dimple so the puller wouldn't twist away and disengage.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...6c7d9bf901.jpg

Here it is, the troublesome EAGLE .60. It went back together WAY easier than it came apart.
Part of that was due to everything inside and out being shiny and slick... the other part is knowing *** I am doing now :p
Just assembled this morning, I still need to obtain new rear cover and carburetor base gaskets before I run it.
Just wanted to see what it looks like all pert n' purdy, sportin' a Semco flow through muffler from the era... :rolleyes:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...86f791ff4e.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ed01237c73.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2420baac48.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...693dd8c7c5.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ca84d66d4b.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...82dc63e4e8.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...64253d2823.jpg

Very Nice.

May have to post some pics later, but for now figured it would not hurt to post a request for some info.

Someone sent me the tall rear cover and bits from what looks to be a 40 or 50 with a diaphragm style pump attached via two coundersunk screws from the inside. The heads are flush with the inside surface so should provide no obstruction. There are two brass line fittings drilled into the side that align vertically with the casting indent upwards, the one pointing closest to centerline alignment taller than the other. No instructions or marking to show inlet or outlet so would have to do a bit of testing.

The stack has an alloy spacer and diaphragm that activates a thin disc with a pin that fits into the outer pump housing and is spring loaded to ride against the diaphragm. Imagine engine pulses provide the mechanical leverage, but did not want to go further into that outer housing if now functional. The one mounted to the cover is red anodized and has a "233" stamped in the end plate. Have what look like enough spares for a second, bare alloy assembly with new diaphragms, (some of the confusion is there are what appears to be more diaphragms than I would need for that).

So, the questions are if this was a Fox option and, if so, were any carb mods required to work with it? Thinking of adapting this to a 50BB to allow it to work in my modded F-15 where the tank has been moved back to the CofG.

Eagle IV 74
 

Think I lucked out here. Grabbed this one from a bulk sale for only $35 with the idea it could at least provide spares for the 60, one of my last 2-strokes. Once I popped the top and measured the bore found this one the 74 and very low time. everything was free and smooth, just gummed up. As you can see a couple days in hot glycol cleaned this right up. Was also able to mod the head button so should run my standard 15% nitro with no issues.

Now just have to finish countersinking the adapter to fit the aftermarket muffler.

I do have one question: Oriented the ring to between ports, but no retainer to keep it there. Missing something?



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0a924fe464.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0f7b454746.jpg

Nothing missing. That engine is designed to have a free floating ring. This is evident by all the extra "webs' in the exhaust port.

Thanks. Been quite a while since had either of the 60s apart.

One mod may look at is remote HS needle. Have done this with my 40 class engines and like the increased safety.

1959 Fox .09 Rocket Engine
 

Recently I picked up and oddity, a mildly mannered 1959 Fox .09 Rocket engine. Fortunately, this one is complete with integral crankcase tank back. I estimate it to be around 7cc. Tonight, I did a little "field" cleaning versus "shop" cleaning. Using an old toothbrush and acetone, I scrubbed away the Castor stains mixed with dust. Crankshaft prop threads and nut were filled with hardened Castor, now clean.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...658d2e4900.jpg
Fox .09 Rocket with APC 7x3 prop.

I notice that when flipping my newly mounted APC 7x3 prop, there is a slight bubbling at the glow head. There is a possibility that it lacks a glow head gasket, as this should seal perfectly.

Later when I get a chance, I might have a sheet metal wrench that fits the head. My flight box, none of the Cox or Gilbert wrenches fit. Worst case is a section of leather wrapped around and vice grips or pipe pliers to remove.

All considering, it cleaned up quite nicely. Don't know if this is a rumor, but heard that the Gilbert .11 Thunderhead heads should fit it. When I get it off, will know more.

This engine was reported by Peter Chinn to produce 0.11 BHP at 14,000 RPM on 20% nitro fuel, optimal era prop then was a 7x3. Another measured it at 0.84 BHP at 13,500 RPM on 0% nitro (FAI) fuel. It doesn't like to be loaded down. Actually, the finish on the engine doesn't seem to be as rough as some of the other Foxes, finish is excellent. The crankcase casting for the day is well done. It is a slightly darker metal than aluminum, one can see the swirling pours from the casting.

Reports of power like a Cox .049 Babe Bee must have been from someone underpropping it. It will spin up to Cox speeds without any problems, but they took it beyond the power curve by doing so.

Anyway, I was happy to land a legacy engine, even the same one shown on my 1959 Berkeley 46" Impulse single channel RC plans.

The other day, I learned a couple things about the Fox .09 Rocket, and one of them is that it is best to use lower inertia props such as wood. This was from Ken on the Cox Engine Forums (CEF), a very experienced C/L and F/F flyer. The crankshaft on these engines are somewhat delicate and a heavier prop like the APC I am using can result in the front of the crankshaft failing. Duke Fox recommended a 6x4 or 7x3, I don't have those in wood but I have a 6x5. It should be close to the 7x3 in thrust I'd think. Also although in plastic, a Masters 7x3 is lighter than APC.

Also another on CEF mentioned that the needle is located in line with the exhaust when running with prop blowing, easy to scorch fingers with exhaust blast. I think this is why the designers of the A.C. Gilbert .074 and .11 Thunderhead engines extended the needle vertically above the exhaust at about head level.

Based on a Cox .049 Golden Bee with 8 CC tank, a 7 cc integral tank on this engine twice the displacement would probably have a 1.5 to 2.5 minute flight. For someone flying a single channel aircraft then and questionable reliability of the cheaper radios then and using escapements controlled by a single pushbutton transmitter, was probably all one could take time wise. I remember my days learning to fly with a Cox .020 powered 27 inch wingspan Top Flite Schoolboy on Ace single channel pulse proportional. Similar length flights in learning mode was sufficient for me, but still had a blast learning.