Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

Today had a bad day at the field, First flight The plane seemed to Just Die in the air, So i tuned her up and Once u hold her vertical she seemed to labour and loose power and gain power, when i tried to richen her up it just wouldnt work she then got too rich and bogged down so i couldnt find that happy spot, Then i Checked the fuel tank and lined and there are no air leaks, NO air bubbles in the lines at all, checked the glow plug and i found something in it so i changed it, and then after 2 more glow plugs they seem to be keeping something stuck in it, so i took the head off and this is what i found
do u think this is the reason why she wouldnt hold a tune??

I have Never seen so much carbon in my life...
the fuel im using is 20% oil
15% synthetic ( Klotz 200 )
5% castor ( Degummed racing Eguina oil )
and the rest methanol... Im using the best ingrediants.And i got no ideea where all this carbon came from..

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

G'day Mate,
Get rid of the castor, use coolpower blue, at 18%, & all your problems will go away.
All the yanks on here will tell you that you must or should use castor, but the carbon is what you get when you do.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

The 61 Pro is an ABC engine, under no circumstances (if you want your engine to last any reasonable length of time) should you use Coolpower Blue (straight synth) oil in this engine without adding some castor.

Even Morgans themselves say that you should use their Pink (castor/synth blend) oil in an ABC engine.

I'd just steer clear of the Klotz.

A couple of times I've used Klotz it's left some really nasty residues.

Coolpower Pink is a much better alternative.

If you're getting stuff stuck in your glowplugs and the engine won't hold a tune check your bearings. Whenever a bearing starts to shed even the tiniest flecks of metal, this generally starts taking out the glowplugs.

There should be no radial or axial play in the crankshaft if there is then new bearings are in order.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

if i hold the cranshaft and pull forward and back there is a little bit of play, it has been like that for agaes.......should i worry about this??I just thought that the stuff in the glow plugs was carbon bult up>>...
where can i get some Bearings?

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

G'day Mate,
Quote: Even Morgans themselves say that you should use their Pink (castor/synth blend) oil in an ABC engine. End quote:

Of course they say that, they want to sell more oil, you need to use around 25% of the red oil in a aircraft engine, because it was originally designed as Heli fuel.
I use the coolpower blue in everything 2 strokes & 4 strokes, ringed, ABL, ABC, whatever, if you run any of them too lean, or don't have your tank setup correctly, they will let you down, no matter what oil you use.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

i think the klots 200 should be good ill just stop using castor, Just wondering if its time to change my bearings I have alittle bit of play on the prop hub, crankshaft, does this mean bearings and where can i get them from?

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

I think you've got tape worms.:D Seriously, that looks like it's been run pretty hard and lean to have that much carbon build up.

David

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

No mate, not the red the *pink*. It's 70% synth, 30% castor. The red is their multi-viscosity heli-oil, you don't want to use that at all in an aircraft engine.

And you can use the pink oil at 17%-20% just like the blue. That Coolpower blue is really not a good oil for ABCs. I've done side-by-side comparisons and CP blue is a pretty crappy oil when compared to other fully synth oils like of Coopers, Motul Micro, EDL, Aerosave/Aerosynth, etc.

In the USA they use it in the fuel that's called Coolpower (it's green) and lots of folks call it "cruel power" for a very good reason.

Funny that I've *never* had an engine failure using the more advanced synthetics, despite deliberately trying to provoke one through setting the needle so lean it would hardly keep runnning on one occasion.

By comparison, a fellow club-member switched to CP blue and had to replace the bearings in nearly all his motors within weeks they just rusted away.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

I use 15% Omega (Pink) in every glow I have. I have engines 10 years old and the inside has a slight tan to it.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

Yep, if you can't get one of the more advanced synthetics, CP Pink is the best alternative. use it at 18%-20%, tune your engines a few hundred RPMs rich of peak and it'll do the job just fine.

My oldest TT46Pro spent the first 200 hours of its current 400 hours running on fuel blended with CP pink (I then switched to Coopers Plus C at 12% by volume) and it's still running within 300RPMs of a brand new one.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

I suspect the problem is that castor you're using. I've never heard of it so I did a Google search and found that (cauda) Equina is a medical problem where castor oil can be used in some cases as a treatment so I'd guess your castor is a medicinal castor that has some added things in it (sweeteners?) causing the carbon build up. We have Castrol M here in Oz so do yourself a favour and get some of that. I'm paying $8/litre for it and it's very good stuff. The photo shows my ST G51 after 30 hours of running on 25% Castrol M.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

thats weird becasue the castor oil i get is from a racing Place and this is what he uses....in his go karts.
alwell im going to go full synthetic now. Klots 200 20%

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

I wouldn't!

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

im confused because down here where im from They Rave about the klotz over the cool power and my LHS doesnt have cool power,
So im stuck between a rock and a hard place...I really dont think the carbon buildup is from the Synthetic oil, Never seen this from synthetic before but castor i have, Im a panel betear by trade and i do know a fair bit about Motors....but after 4 yrs This motor hasnt done too badly, also i must say the castor i have used from this bloke i have only ran probably 30 tanks of this castor, the other caster i used was from the LHS and i didnt really like it....So maybe this castor is ok, Its really hard to tell but after i have stripped the motor Inside of the motor is great Just the top of the piston, The Motor inside has a great colour and i think this is from the Klots i have always ran klots 200 and the only thing i do change is castor from time to time
here are some photo's
ALSO i have taken the bearing out, The front bearing has some play in it!!

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...7072008003.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...7072008004.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...7072008001.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...7072008002.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...06072008-1.jpg

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

I will be putting new bearing in it, So hopefully this will help

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

If its castor oil formulated for use with gas or petrol powered engines as opposed to methanol powered engines, then I have no idea if or how well it would work with model engines.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

castor oil can mix with gasoline or methanol. there isnt any special type for gas or methanol.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

Actually there is. Plain castor oil will only mix so much with gas. Castrol and others treat it so that larger percentages will mix with gas. I don't know what would happen if you use that with methanol.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

I've tried the type of castor that is developed specifically for gasoline engines (Castrol R30 from memory). It would not reliably stay in solution, even when I added up to 5% acetone.

They say that it has "limited" solubility in methanol - but it seems that should be *very* limited solubility.

It's worth noting that to get the benefits of castor, you only need about 3% (by volume) with the balance a good quality synthetic. When I run this small amount of castor (with 9% Cooper's synth) I get *no* carbon build-up even after many hours, the piston crown and cylinder head tend to be discolored to a very light straw color.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

Ok guys i got the new bearing though it is different than Original Just wondering if its still ok to use,
It seams the Width is alittle smaller only a tad, ( The front bearing we are talking abut )
And the original one was sealed from one side as pics obove and the new one isnt here are a few pics
This Is the New one, U can see straight throught it
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...g/08072008.jpg

This is the original one
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...8072008001.jpg

Original one again
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...8072008002.jpg

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

here is on of the width'sThe Wider one is the original
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...8072008006.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...8072008007.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...8072008009.jpg

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

http://www.smallparts.com.au/cgi-bin...earches=0=post
This is where i got it from they seem pretty lagite...

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

Don't use that bearing, it's the wrong one.

I'm the Australasian reseller for RC-Bearings.com. I'll check and see what type it is and if I have any in stock tomorrow.

You should get a shielded bearing of the exact same specification - using the wrong bearing will cause problems.

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

Xjet i had spoke with the company i boaught the bearings and this is what they said

"Seals and shields are situated between the inner and outer rings of the bearing. The purpose of seals and shields are to protect the inside of the bearing from contaminants and to help prevent the leakage of lubricant from the bearing.

He said that bearing is for that motor......and said he has had no troubles in the past...
Xjet this is what it is
R6-T9h-c8/23
ID:9.525
OD:22.225
Width: 5.556
Manufacturer, Swiss

RE: Thunder Tiger pro 61
 

Always use the identical bearing to the original ones removed from the engine. (size wise)