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RE: How important is the break in procedure?
Brasses are divided into two classes.
· The alpha alloys, with less than 37% Zinc. These alloys are ductile and can be cold worked. · The alpha/beta or duplex alloys with 37-45% Zinc. These alloys have limited cold ductility and are typically harder and stronger. Hmmm.... There are three main families of wrought alloy brasses : · Copper-Zinc alloys · Copper-Zinc-Lead alloys (Leaded brasses) · Copper-Zinc-Tin alloys (Tin brasses) Cast brass alloys can be broken into four main families : · Copper-Tin-Zinc alloys (red, semi-red and yellow brasses) · Manganese Bronze alloys (high strength yellow brasses) and Leaded Manganese Bronze alloys (leaded high strength yellow brasses) · Copper-Zinc-Silicon alloys (Silicon brasses and bronzes) · Cast Copper-Bismuth and Copper-Bismuth-Selenium alloys. Since Brass is Brass..... Please tells us which Family/Class of brass is used in ALL the ABC cylinders in ALL of our model engines. You've posted that 2024 makes up ALL of the connecting rods in ALL of our engines. Please use your special intuitive powers and let us all know. Quote: I intuitively comprehend complex situations, for which most engineers would need to make intricate mathematical calculations to understand... And my Tel-Aviv University Bachelor's degree is in ... economics. I was always too lazy for high mathematics of engineering studies, but got A+ in these subjects in economics. End Quote: While your at it, lets us know if the cylinder starts out as a tube or if its machined from solid bar stock. Would a cylinder made from heavy wall tube be less expensive to manufacture than a cylinder made from bar stock? Would the inherent stress of the two types of material be different? |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon ORIGINAL: the pope I think O.F makes his own seegars that are against the the law everywhere. Cheers man from the pope ( grooooovy ) Had I been a 'seegar' smoker, I would have liked to try one of his... |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: Broken Wings Brasses are divided into two classes. · The alpha alloys, with less than 37% Zinc. These alloys are ductile and can be cold worked. · The alpha/beta or duplex alloys with 37-45% Zinc. These alloys have limited cold ductility and are typically harder and stronger. Hmmm.... There are three main families of wrought alloy brasses : · Copper-Zinc alloys · Copper-Zinc-Lead alloys (Leaded brasses) · Copper-Zinc-Tin alloys (Tin brasses) Cast brass alloys can be broken into four main families : · Copper-Tin-Zinc alloys (red, semi-red and yellow brasses) · Manganese Bronze alloys (high strength yellow brasses) and Leaded Manganese Bronze alloys (leaded high strength yellow brasses) · Copper-Zinc-Silicon alloys (Silicon brasses and bronzes) · Cast Copper-Bismuth and Copper-Bismuth-Selenium alloys. Since Brass is Brass..... Please tells us which Family/Class of brass is used in ALL the ABC cylinders in ALL of our model engines. You've posted that 2024 makes up ALL of the connecting rods in ALL of our engines. Please use your special intuitive powers and let us all know. Quote: I intuitively comprehend complex situations, for which most engineers would need to make intricate mathematical calculations to understand... And my Tel-Aviv University Bachelor's degree is in ... economics. I was always too lazy for high mathematics of engineering studies, but got A+ in these subjects in economics. End Quote: While your at it, lets us know if the cylinder starts out as a tube or if its machined from solid bar stock. Would a cylinder made from heavy wall tube be less expensive to manufacture than a cylinder made from bar stock? Would the inherent stress of the two types of material be different? So, what does all the above have to do with the necessity (or lack thereof) of doing a break-in. All you wrote may be true, but I don't care. How much would the question of whether the sleeve started out as tube stock, bar-stock, or plain cast; would affect the process necessary for break-in of an ABC engine? It wouldn't... I do not know if all manufacturers of engines actually use the same 2024 alloy to make con-rods. It is cheap, available and suitable for the job, so why not? But if someone selects a 'precious metal', to make 'his' con-rod better; then so be it and I don't care. It still has no effect on necessity (or lack thereof) of doing a break-in, or on its procedure. Saito uses high-silicon aluminium for the con-rod, with no bushings... Same procedure, which targets the piston-ring fit. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon ORIGINAL: Broken Wings Brasses are divided into two classes. · The alpha alloys, with less than 37% Zinc. These alloys are ductile and can be cold worked. · The alpha/beta or duplex alloys with 37-45% Zinc. These alloys have limited cold ductility and are typically harder and stronger. Hmmm.... There are three main families of wrought alloy brasses : · Copper-Zinc alloys · Copper-Zinc-Lead alloys (Leaded brasses) · Copper-Zinc-Tin alloys (Tin brasses) Cast brass alloys can be broken into four main families : · Copper-Tin-Zinc alloys (red, semi-red and yellow brasses) · Manganese Bronze alloys (high strength yellow brasses) and Leaded Manganese Bronze alloys (leaded high strength yellow brasses) · Copper-Zinc-Silicon alloys (Silicon brasses and bronzes) · Cast Copper-Bismuth and Copper-Bismuth-Selenium alloys. Since Brass is Brass..... Please tells us which Family/Class of brass is used in ALL the ABC cylinders in ALL of our model engines. You've posted that 2024 makes up ALL of the connecting rods in ALL of our engines. Please use your special intuitive powers and let us all know. Quote: I intuitively comprehend complex situations, for which most engineers would need to make intricate mathematical calculations to understand... And my Tel-Aviv University Bachelor's degree is in ... economics. I was always too lazy for high mathematics of engineering studies, but got A+ in these subjects in economics. End Quote: While your at it, lets us know if the cylinder starts out as a tube or if its machined from solid bar stock. Would a cylinder made from heavy wall tube be less expensive to manufacture than a cylinder made from bar stock? Would the inherent stress of the two types of material be different? So, what does all the above have to do with the necessity (or lack thereof) of doing a break-in. All you wrote may be true, but I don't care. How much would the question of whether the sleeve started out as tube stock, bar-stock, or plain cast; would affect the process necessary for break-in of an ABC engine? It wouldn't... I do not know if all manufacturers of engines actually use the same 2024 alloy to make con-rods. It is cheap, available and suitable for the job, so why not? But if someone selects a 'precious metal', to make 'his' con-rod better; then so be it and I don't care. It still has no effect on necessity (or lack thereof) of doing a break-in, or on its procedure. Saito uses high-silicon aluminium for the con-rod, with no bushings... Same procedure, which targets the piston-ring fit. Buy the way, Aluminum isn't a "precious metal", I wish it was.... When a Manufacturer designs and builds something they "KNOW" what the material characteristics are of the metals they choose. They write a procedure based on those characteristics. Your procedure differs from so many other manufacturers instructions that I find it difficult to believe that they're all mistaken and that you're correct. I find it real hard to believe that there's a conspiracy amongst model engine manufacturers that "They don't know any better"... When Bob Brassel of Jett Engineering wrote http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1893259 Quote: There is some good and bad information out there about break in proceedures for ABC type engines...... some info is a mixture of both. In general, a proceedure outline by an engine manufacturer should be followed as written. Other engine manufacturers have their noted proceedures. The proceedures depend a lot on materials. Jett uses special alloy aluminum for all pistons, and all sleeves are TRUE chrome plated. For a Jett, that first minute of being rich does no damage to the piston or sleeve. It is no different than starting a Jett or any other ABC engine when cold and at idle. The proceedure outlined in the instructions and on the web site is very tried and true. Always follow it with a Jett engine, and the engine will run flawlessly. Something of note. 'Taper bore' engines and AAC/ABC engines can be different. Some have a 'fixed' taper that does not change or changes unevenly. A well designed AAC/ABC engine has a taper and piston/sleeve fit that DOES change. Both the piston and sleeve change with temperature. When the engine is cold (at start) there is an interference that you can feel and hear turning over the engine... with a Jett, the audible 'squeek' is a good thing to hear! As soon as the engine starts (for sport engines, at idle) the engine begins to warm up, creating the appropriate fit between piston and sleeve. As you take the engine to full power and it reaches operating temperature, the fit becomes optimal, and you will hear the engine rpm increase to its full potential. If anything, you want it on the 'tight' side. Keep in mind, that Dub runs EVERY engine before you ever get it. In fact, the low end needle is pre-set, and in some cases you may receive the engine with the high end needle set to an optimim setting too. Every engine must meet or exceed the published performance RPM before he ships it. The break-in proceedure you follow helps seat the rod ends. No 'wear' really occures on the piston or sleeve to achive a 'fit'. I have used a proceedure similar to what Dub describes on my ABC engines for many years. That first run is important to allow the bearings, rod ends, wrist pin and crank pin to properly seat and loosen up. The first minute is rich, then I lean the engine up into a stable 2C and let it run at or near my intended operating rpm. An example. Well after break-in, when we start our racing engines, it is important that they start wet and somewhat rich. You do not want a temperature spike the moment the engine fires... you want it to warm evenly, then after about 10-15 seconds you can slowly lean it to the optimum ground RPM for flight (for a Q-500 engine, this is about 600 rpm down from ground peak). Clearly from this, starting an ABC/AAC engine 'cool' at first does absolutely no harm, and does a lot of good. I believe this to be correct, you don't... |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
John, what you do is something I do with all engines all the time, I'm not one of those, "I never touch the needle" guys. When I start an engine I richen the HS needle about 1/4 turn and then sneak up to the peak after the engine stabilizes.
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RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: Broken Wings I know you don't care, but I believe Bob Brassel does. Buy the way, Aluminum isn't a ''precious metal'', I wish it was.... When a Manufacturer designs and builds something they ''KNOW'' what the material characteristics are of the metals they choose. They write a procedure based on those characteristics. Your procedure differs from so many other manufacturers instructions that I find it difficult to believe that they're all mistaken and that you're correct. I find it real hard to believe that there's a conspiracy amongst model engine manufacturers that ''They don't know any better''... When Bob Brassel of Jett Engineering wrote http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1893259 Quote: There is some good and bad information out there about break in proceedures for ABC type engines...... some info is a mixture of both. In general, a proceedure outline by an engine manufacturer should be followed as written. Other engine manufacturers have their noted proceedures. The proceedures depend a lot on materials. Jett uses special alloy aluminum for all pistons, and all sleeves are TRUE chrome plated. For a Jett, that first minute of being rich does no damage to the piston or sleeve. It is no different than starting a Jett or any other ABC engine when cold and at idle. The proceedure outlined in the instructions and on the web site is very tried and true. Always follow it with a Jett engine, and the engine will run flawlessly. Something of note. 'Taper bore' engines and AAC/ABC engines can be different. Some have a 'fixed' taper that does not change or changes unevenly. A well designed AAC/ABC engine has a taper and piston/sleeve fit that DOES change. Both the piston and sleeve change with temperature. When the engine is cold (at start) there is an interference that you can feel and hear turning over the engine... with a Jett, the audible 'squeek' is a good thing to hear! As soon as the engine starts (for sport engines, at idle) the engine begins to warm up, creating the appropriate fit between piston and sleeve. As you take the engine to full power and it reaches operating temperature, the fit becomes optimal, and you will hear the engine rpm increase to its full potential. If anything, you want it on the 'tight' side. Keep in mind, that Dub runs EVERY engine before you ever get it. In fact, the low end needle is pre-set, and in some cases you may receive the engine with the high end needle set to an optimim setting too. Every engine must meet or exceed the published performance RPM before he ships it. The break-in proceedure you follow helps seat the rod ends. No 'wear' really occures on the piston or sleeve to achive a 'fit'. I have used a proceedure similar to what Dub describes on my ABC engines for many years. That first run is important to allow the bearings, rod ends, wrist pin and crank pin to properly seat and loosen up. The first minute is rich, then I lean the engine up into a stable 2C and let it run at or near my intended operating rpm. An example. Well after break-in, when we start our racing engines, it is important that they start wet and somewhat rich. You do not want a temperature spike the moment the engine fires... you want it to warm evenly, then after about 10-15 seconds you can slowly lean it to the optimum ground RPM for flight (for a Q-500 engine, this is about 600 rpm down from ground peak). Clearly from this, starting an ABC/AAC engine 'cool' at first does absolutely no harm, and does a lot of good. I believe this to be correct, you don't... As I wrote, I believe Bob Brassel does know what he's talking about. What you quoted him for in your post above is almost all right... Why almost? Because he also wrote: "In general, a procedure outlined by an engine manufacturer should be followed as written." I believe the important expression in that sentence, is 'in general'. and the reason for 'almost' is that many may generalize that rest of the sentence is unequivocally true. One should only note your quoted 'dork' procedure for Magnum engines, and OS' 'two voices', regarding their break-in procedure of ABL/N engines, to understand the a procedure outlined by an engine manufacturer should not always be followed as written... The manufacturer's procedure; should the user wish to follow it; must always be scrutinized; to make sure it is written as it should be, for the engine he is about to break-in. If a manufacturer, or someone speaking/writing on its behalf, does not bother to differentiate the procedure for a ringed engine (must be richer; four-cycling initially), from that of an ABC engine (slightly rich, on or just lean of the two/four-cycling break); he should be regarded as suspect. Such a procedure should be replaced, by one written for the type of engine you are about to break-in. I like Bob Brassel's elaboration on the 'rich' specification in regards to Jett engines (that it's on or just lean of the two/four-cycling break); as well as the recommendation to always add more oil for break-in; although I specify castor oil. Different taper types in tapered-bore engines, do not justify a different procedure for break-in. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
<font color="#000066">
<font color="#000066">I believe the important expression in that sentence, is 'in general'. and the reason for 'almost' is that many may generalize that rest of the sentence is unequivocally true.</font> <h5 style="margin: 10px 0px">Web definitions</h5><div class="std"><ul> <li style="list-style-type: none">generally: without distinction of one from others; "he is interested in snakes in general"[/list]<div style="color: #551a8b"><cite><span class="bc"><font color="#0e774a">wordnetweb.princeton.edu/perl/webwn</font></span></cite></div> <ul> <li style="list-style-type: none">In the general case; without further assumption; without qualification; in all respects; generally[/list]<div style="color: #551a8b"><cite><span class="bc"><font color="#0e774a">en.wiktionary.org/wiki/in_general</font> </span></cite></div><div style="color: #551a8b"></div><div style="color: #551a8b"><cite><span class="bc">So it really means it should always be followed, and no exceptions to his knowledge.</span></cite></div> </div></font> |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot <font color=''#000066''> <font color=''#000066''>I believe the important expression in that sentence, is 'in general'. and the reason for 'almost' is that many may generalize that rest of the sentence is unequivocally true.</font> <h5 style=''margin: 10px 0px''>Web definitions</h5><div class=''std''><ul> <li style=''list-style-type: none''>generally: without distinction of one from others; ''he is interested in snakes in general''[/list]<div style=''color: #551a8b''><cite><span class=''bc''>http://<font color=''#0e774a''>wordn...l/webwn</font></span></cite></div> <ul> <li style=''list-style-type: none''>In the general case; without further assumption; without qualification; in all respects; generally[/list]<div style=''color: #551a8b''><cite><span class=''bc''>http://<font color=''#0e774a''>en.wi...general</font> </span></cite></div><div style=''color: #551a8b''> </div><div style=''color: #551a8b''><cite><span class=''bc''>So it really means it should always be followed, and no exceptions to his knowledge.</span></cite></div> </div></font> If so, this part of Bab Brassel's statement is simply incorrect. This justifies, from my point of view, scrutiny by the user, for any break-in procedure given for any engine... Its correctness must be check and it must not 'automatically' be followed. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
<font color="#000066">
<font color="#000066">This justifies, from my point of view, scrutiny by the user, for any break-in procedure given for any engine... Its correctness must be check and it must not 'automatically' be followed.</font> I doubt very many of us can check the matirals used, the amount of taper, the eveness of taper. The amount of fit when running a four stroke temp or two stroke temp (or even what these temperatures are) and many other requriements to even know what the proper break in is. I doubt even you can determine that. So the user should follow the manual. All I know is that the current LA series of engines with their currenet design have no problems with the four cycle break in. The pinch barely catch's cold, so I do not see how they could throw a rod of do any other damage running at a four cycle. Also many of them are run at a four cycle as the regular setting for control line stunt.</font> |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
Hugh,
People have been breaking engines in, long before the advent of the IR thermometer. Making sure the engine is running right, was done only by its sound. It should be so today as well. The type of taper (fixed/variable/shallow/steep), does not change the general settings required. A taper that's particularly tight at its top, may need a slightly leaner setting of the needle, to get the pinch out... But it will never need too lean a setting. I.e. it will still be in the two-cycling range, but a bit closer to the peak than a loose engine. The materials are not an issue either. A tapered-bore engine needs the same procedure, whether it is ABC, ABL, ABL, AAC, or plasma ceramic. The engine must use fuel with a lot of castor oil and run at the bottom of the two-cycling range, so it would sound right - not burbling excessively and not four-cycling most of the time. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
<font color="#000066">
The type of taper (fixed/variable/shallow/steep), does not change the general settings required. Or perhaps those stunt engines that have tapered bore engines should not be doing their 4-2-4 break.Many break those in at a four cycle setting as well but since the taper and materials don't matter I guess they have been doing it wrong all of these years.</font> |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
Holy schlamoley.
We could all just agree publicly that Dar is right about everything, then go do what we think is best anyways, and get on with our lives. Just an idea.. :) |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: MJD Holy schlamoley. We could all just agree publicly that Dar is right about everything, then go do what we think is best anyways, and get on with our lives. Just an idea.. :) :D:eek: Hey...what does a hundred+ years of accumulated "mere experience" (among several people here ) mean when you have an intuitive ability and an economics degree...;) |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
My head hurts, in general, from trying to follow the reasoning in this thread... ;)
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RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: proptop :D:eek: Hey...what does a hundred+ years of accumulated ''mere experience'' (among several people here ) mean when you have an intuitive ability and an economics degree...;) |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot If that were true then a untapered lapped iron engine should use the same break in proceedure. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot The type of taper (fixed/variable/shallow/steep), does not change the general settings required. Or perhaps those stunt engines that have tapered bore engines should not be doing their 4-2-4 break. Many break those in at a four cycle setting as well but since the taper and materials don't matter I guess they have been doing it wrong all of these years.</font> Any engine with a tapered-bore, needs to be run-in at its normal working temperature, to get the sleeve top to expand due to heat (the top becomes hotter so it expands more), so it is closer to parallel. No taper does matter! Parallel sleeve engines; both lapped iron/steel and ringed, need a rich, cold initial break-in. Very little expansion takes place during such a break-in. Stunt engines that have tapered-bores, which are intended to 'four-two-four' all day long in normal use; should be broken-in like any other engine with a tapered-bore, including R/C. It will give them the longest life-span and will not in any way, impede their ability to 'four-two-four' all day long... Why are you so adamant to discount my method? Do you have any proof, or even a hint that it does not achieve the results stated above? PropTop, BW, Brian and MJD, if you wish to disprove my method, which I humbly believe I got right; despite the fact that I only have a Bachelor of Arts Degree in economics, please bring evidence... With 29,462 hits (and more on the original thread from 2003), I believe several thousands of members in this forum (and out of it), did the break-in according to it, over the last eight years or so... I received no complaints. Find unhappy ones to prove your claim, or forever hold your silence. I believe this thread had run its term. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
Why are you so adamant to discount my method? Do you have any proof, or even a hint that it does not achieve the results stated above? |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot Why are you so adamant to discount my method? Do you have any proof, or even a hint that it does not achieve the results stated above? Because I have seen engines broken in differently, usually per manufactures instructions. with no ill effect. It is quite possible that following some manufacturers' procedures on their engines, may cause no immediate damage. But still, doing it the way my thread describes, will get results that are as likely better. That's because some wear that does take place if a cold break-in is given to an engine for which a warmer one is more suitable; this wear is saved, giving at least a little more life to the engine. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
The problems with the IR thermometer is that the temperature readings can vary a lot depending on the surface being measured. A shiny surface reads at a lower temperature than does a dull dark colored surface. The other problem is the IR thermometer is measuring the surface skin temperature and not what is down deeper inside the engine. the outer surface can vary a lot with cooling fins and the thickness of the metal at the point of the measurements.
Yes one could use a IR thermometer, but the temperature readings are only valid for that one specific engine only, not even for a second engine like the first one measured. Thus any measurements become "ball park" or approximate/relative temperature measurements. Better temperature readings could be done using thermocouples embedded into the engine at various points to measure the temperatures more accurately below the surface. But then that becomes impractical for the most part. A compromise could be used with a temperature sensor that is attached to the engine so that it can measure the temps. They used to make a thermocouple and digital display where the sensor was bolted on under the glow plug. Others used a sensor that was wedged down in the cylinder fins. You usually see these on the RC cars though, not on airplanes. But the RC helicopter folks might use them with their datalogging units for feedback about a flight. But in any case the temperature readings would only mean something on that one engine that you are measuring, the results would likely be invalid if you used them on another engine, even the same but different engine. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=675934 or http://www.eagletreesystems.com/MicroPower/micro.htm |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
Or MUCH LESS...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9798458 Apparently it didn't work so well for him... One thing I didn't bring up is Price Point. Making a cylinder sleeve from brass "Tube Stock" is much cheaper. The material cost less, there is less to machine "It's already got the hole"...It costs less to ship, you're not leaving the majority of the material in the chip pan of the machine tool, etc. If you want to knock out a whole bunch of model engine cylinders fast! Roller Burnish the inside bore.... Google That..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0gO1jtNCm4 The difference is there ARE stresses inherent to the way a tube is made vs a solid bar. (Is the tube drawn on mandrel, extruded, etc. Roller Burnish the I.D. and you'll add even more stress and make it even harder) If a less expensive engine is manufactured with less expensive materials and the manufacturer knows and understands this, said manufacturer may want his break-in procedure to be very much if not exactly the same as a ringed engine. I would think that the manufacturer WANTS the brass cylinder with all its inherent stress to be "annealed" BY THE USER!!!. (It's one less process the manufacturer has to perform) Annealing is a process wherein heat is applied to a metal in order to change its internal structure in such a way that the metal will become softer. (Like a high dollar NovaRossi Billet Cylinder, or one made of Special Materials like a Jett) Most of us think of "heat treating" when we think of applying heat to a metal in order to change its internal structural properties. The word "heat treating" is most commonly associated with steel. However, the term heat treating is not annealing, except in a general and journalistic sense of the word.... Heat-treating refers to a process wherein the metal is made harder. Annealing always means to make the metal softer. (Disregard the instructions and run the snot out of a new engine with a rock hard liner and you could ruin it...Gently "cycle" the hard brass liner and it will become softer, the piston will find its home and live happily with the liner.) In order to make steel harder, it is heated to some temperature, and then cooled fairly rapidly, although this is not always the case. Brass, on the other hand, cannot be made harder by heating it....ever. Brass is always made softer by heating. The only way brass can be made harder is to "work" it. That is, the brass must be bent, hammered, shaped or otherwise formed (into a tube to make model engine cylinders?). Once it has been made hard, it can be returned to its "soft" state by annealing. The hardness of brass can be controlled by annealing for a specified time and temperature. (Run the engine this way for this amount of time...) Unlike steel, which will be made harder when it is cooled rapidly, brass is virtually unaffected when it is rapidly cooled. Annealing brass and suddenly quenching it in water will have no measurable effect on the brass. My entire point is "IF YOU DON"T KNOW WHAT IT'S MADE OF OR HOW ITS MADE..." You might want to read the flippin instructions that come with the engine... :D |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
I would never do it, but ive heard some of the old timers say they used to use Bonami to speed up the break in process back in the day.. http://bonami.3nerds.com/index.php/p...nser/undefined
i would only do it on a new cheap engine as an experiment... lol i just made a note to self |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
Lets get one thing straight, "MY way is best"! Common post #100.
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RE: How important is the break in procedure?
BW,
Le Fou, as even Brian wrote [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9799279]right here[/link], apparently did not damage his engine. That, even though he was seemingly oblivious to overheating... Some engines made from lesser materials, will lose more pinch during break-in. ...They will lose even more of it if break-in done wrong. You were on the attacking side there too... Is it possible you are opposed to my drive to make engines last longer? Do engine manufacturers ask you to do that? EDIT: Typo and clarification. |
RE: How important is the break in procedure?
To do any real heat treating you are going to have to get the engine up to over 500 degrees or a lot more. There is no heat treating effect at the temperatures our engines operate at.
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