Bridi Rearwin speedster build?
#852
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Location: Bristol, CT
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The front face of the cowl? If its louvers your talking about, I didn't do them . between the cutouts in front and the bottom of the cowl, there's plenty of airflow. It runs at around 125 F even on a hot day.
#854
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So after 25 or 30 excellent flights, I naturally developed a few issues, the most major being that the engine box wasn't standing up to the beating that the Brillelli was handing out. This resulted in the motor mount failing . It could have been bad, but I managed to land. This is my thoughts on fixing it. To make the engine box and firewall one piece. ( I know, isn't that always the point?) I used aluminum 90 degree angle bought from the depot. It's really light, and I needed nose weight anyway. So, the front 90 has the motor mount bolts passing through it, and is bolted to the sides with 6-32 SHCS and tee nuts. The rear angle is bolted to the side and the firewall with the same arrangement as above. I feel much better about it now and think it will last.
#860
You might be onto something, Yep sounds about right.
Resolved my issues with my little CL plane engine. I should get my car out the shop Monday, so that gives me 2 or 3 days to try to get in some flights. Shall see if I resolved the stability issues. Danged thing porpoised up and down like a coon dog hunting.
Ken
#861
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I am about to start this same Birdi kit. You do such a masterfully good job of gluing. Neat, clean. Question: What is your primary glue type of the three types in general use?
Richard.
Richard.
#862
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[QUOTE=John 38;11579260]
John: If you are still on here, I have a question. I am going to start the Birdi Rearwin Speedster in a few days, so got interested in this thread. I haven't used dope since the early fifties. And that was always the Gullow kits (don't remember the spelling exactly) and that was tissue paper and dope. So to the question. Does the dress lining have any tendency to shrink when dope is sprayed on? And the wing and tail, rounded tips, must be a real problem to cover and have look good. Having not doped for so long and never covered with fabric, I am not sure I am up to doing the job. I see the cost of dope has come up SOME, since I last used it. So I wonder if the cost of the Solartex might just about work out to be close to the same cost as the dope method. I just finished a 1/4 scale Jungmeister, and have close to two hundred dollars worth of Solartex on it. But the cost of dope??? WOW!
ORIGINAL: [email protected]
Ok, I really don't think that anyone is still following along anymore, with the exception of Walther, but I'll give an update anyway. I'm a bit annoyed that I still need another roll of fabric for just the elevators and the landing gear, but that's life. I will order it in a day or two. Also, I thought I had a lot more of the cream colored fabric than I do for the trim, but I will have to get more of that as well.
I am still following progress, Steve, as I still have to make my mind up on making the kit or ebaying it, so keep up with the good work.
When I covered my 108" span/ 18" chord Mamselle, I bought a 10 metre roll of solartex ( about 30 years ago ) and got left with a lot of useless offcuts like 6" by 20ft from the wings - the size of the rolls of covering material is ok for small models but hopeless for large. I now cover with doped polyester dress lining which comes in at 40 or 60" wide, any length off the roll at dressmakers/walmart etc and only about $2/ metre/yd. this comment too late for you now - sorry about that.
john
Ok, I really don't think that anyone is still following along anymore, with the exception of Walther, but I'll give an update anyway. I'm a bit annoyed that I still need another roll of fabric for just the elevators and the landing gear, but that's life. I will order it in a day or two. Also, I thought I had a lot more of the cream colored fabric than I do for the trim, but I will have to get more of that as well.
I am still following progress, Steve, as I still have to make my mind up on making the kit or ebaying it, so keep up with the good work.
When I covered my 108" span/ 18" chord Mamselle, I bought a 10 metre roll of solartex ( about 30 years ago ) and got left with a lot of useless offcuts like 6" by 20ft from the wings - the size of the rolls of covering material is ok for small models but hopeless for large. I now cover with doped polyester dress lining which comes in at 40 or 60" wide, any length off the roll at dressmakers/walmart etc and only about $2/ metre/yd. this comment too late for you now - sorry about that.
john
John: If you are still on here, I have a question. I am going to start the Birdi Rearwin Speedster in a few days, so got interested in this thread. I haven't used dope since the early fifties. And that was always the Gullow kits (don't remember the spelling exactly) and that was tissue paper and dope. So to the question. Does the dress lining have any tendency to shrink when dope is sprayed on? And the wing and tail, rounded tips, must be a real problem to cover and have look good. Having not doped for so long and never covered with fabric, I am not sure I am up to doing the job. I see the cost of dope has come up SOME, since I last used it. So I wonder if the cost of the Solartex might just about work out to be close to the same cost as the dope method. I just finished a 1/4 scale Jungmeister, and have close to two hundred dollars worth of Solartex on it. But the cost of dope??? WOW!
#863
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What is the thickness of the plywood front sides? My Birdi kit came without it. It is an old kit, but the plywood is not shown on the plans either. But I think it is just about a requirement, for strength. The choice would be 1/32 or 1/16 I think. Other then that, it looks to be the exact build of your Speedster kit.
Thank you.
Richard
Thank you.
Richard
#864
What is the thickness of the plywood front sides? My Birdi kit came without it. It is an old kit, but the plywood is not shown on the plans either. But I think it is just about a requirement, for strength. The choice would be 1/32 or 1/16 I think. Other then that, it looks to be the exact build of your Speedster kit.
Thank you.
Richard
Thank you.
Richard