Cricklewood

Reyn3545,

I don't have my plans in front of me but I was wondering if the cowl molds you have are for the 1/5 or 1/6 scale Waco's?

Thanks,

Chris

WB #133

reyn3545

Sorry, should have said... this mold set is for a 1/4 scale Waco.

reyn3545

Hey, while I'm thinking about it... for all of you more experienced scale pilots....


When I taxi out for takeoff, I try to feather in the throttle, but I guess I need to do it even slower. Regardless, not long after the tail gets airborne, this plane wants to take a HARD left. My immediate reaction on my 3 flights so far has been to go full throttle, hit the elevator and get away from trouble ( the ground). Luckily, the plane has enough power to get off the ground very quickly.

I'm afraid to put too much rudder correction in it, because I don't want to turn back into the pits, but I do realize the next time the wind shifts and we reverse the pattern, the plane's going to be taking a hard left right into the pits anyway.

I usually take off and land on low rates, with maybe 20 degrees or so of rudder throw in both directions... It doesn't look like that's going to be enough to keep the plane straight at low speeds. How much rudder do you guys have for takeoff corrections?

WacoNut

reyn,
Having not flown my Waco yet I can't say for sure. My 1/4 Cub takes alot of right rudder to keep her straight until the speed builds. The Waco has alot of plane aft of the landing gear like a cub and will require alot of rudder. I have my Cub setup with full rudder deflection at all times. I have been flying R/C Cubs for 20 yrs and have become accustomed to using rudder and really don't put that much thought into it just do it. Increasing the throttle slower will help but you need to watch and not lift off before you get enough speed. A sudden burst of power after the wheels break ground and she may snap. I input alot of rudder and gradually relax the rudder as speed builds. A little practice at this and it becomes 2nd nature before too long.
Later!!
Anthony

georgewaldrop

My Feedback: (28)

reyn3545,

If you still have the molds, I'll take them...let me know how much shipping will be and I'll send you a PayPal or Money Order.

Ship them (if they're still available) to:

George Waldrop
250. N. Pebble Creek Terrace Apt #103
Mustang, OK 73064

Thanks in advance!

reyn3545

OK... they're yours. I'm traveling for the rest of the week, but will try to get them out early next week. I'll let you know what the shipping charges are and when they go out.

I just want to make sure that they go somewhere that they can be used. I don't have a use for them, but I knew someone on here would. Good luck!

georgewaldrop

My Feedback: (28)

reyn3545,

Thanks! No rush whatsoever...I appreciate the molds, and will put them to good (I hope...good may be in the eye of the beholder I guess!) use. Just let me know.

skylarkmk1

reyn, George, and all,

The Nick Ziroli plans site has the instructions for their semi kit for a 7 cylinder Continental engine using Williams Bros Cylinders that looks very convincing, much better than any vacuumed formed engines. I don't see any problem scaling the same instructions down for the 1/6th or 1/5th; you just have to build the crankcase instead of using NZPs vacuumed formed crankcase.

Site - http://www.ziroliplans.com/zirolipla..._frameset.html or from the home page look under scale items or the link for the 87" Stearman.

Stickbuilder

20% rudder is not enough. On high rates, you want all you can get, and on low rates, about 75% of that.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

georgewaldrop

My Feedback: (28)

John,

Thanks for that! Great info and looks like it will make a good detail as you said.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Bill is absolutely right. The engine and cowl eat up a TON of the airflow on the Waco, so the lower rates on the rudder (and on my Waco I found also the lower rates on my elevator) are not effective enough.

~ Jim ~

gunner3

Hey Bill, how can I get one of those t-shirts?

Bob: Waco brother #160

skylarkmk1

All,

There is still time to check out the eBay add for a 1/6th scale Pica YMF kit item # 180470746180 , http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-RARE-PICA-WA...item2a04e50c44 . Current bid is $127, bidding ends on the 24th of Feb.

Also a 1/6th Dave Platt YMF kit item # 120532867244 , http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-DAVE-PLATT-M...item1c105198ac , Current bid $35, Bidding ends 28 Feb.

Stickbuilder

Bob,

Contact Mitch (nineonine). Someone bought up some extras and they will probably willingly part with them. Otherwise we'll have to start working on a new order.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

cdbarker

The shirts are super looking. Put me in for 2 if there is a new order. I take a large in case someone has extras.

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone wishing to get shirts from the original order must contact TexasSkyPilot as he has the only extras. They may be all sold out. We need a guarantee of 75 shirts in order to place a new order from the printer. Mitch WB100

Stickbuilder

And Here we go again. Mitch, if you do get enough for a second run, they need to stay the same color. Gen. 1 were all tan. Gen. 2 are maroon, we have not decided on what Gen.3 will be.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I'm fresh out, sorry, guys! I sent out the few extra I had already.

~ Jim ~

gunner3

Well, I finally got the ailerons temporarily hooked up (Pica 1/5) and was trying to set up the throws when I noticed that the upper ailerons had quite a bit more deflection ( almost double at full throw) then the lower ones. I did not see this addressed in the instructions. Is this a problem? If it is, how do I correct it and if it isn't, which aileron do I set at the 1/2" deflection that the instructions call for? It looks like a geometry issue.

Stickbuilder

You will need to mount the slave rod on the lower right at the trailing edge. Mount the upper about 1/4 to 3/8 in from the trailing edge. That ground has been plowed several times. Look at Dan's plane. He used small toggle bolt arms to make his mounts.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

skylarkmk1

gunner3,

The Full size has the slave rod attatched to the lower aileron in board of the trailing edge (fat end of the mount forward) and the upper with the mount reversed (fat end to the rear). The toggle bolt leafs are close copies of the full size mount.

P1 - Lower
P2 - Upper

gunner3

Thanks John, that makes sense, but it doesn't answer my question. Can I live with this or do I need to do surgery to my connecting rods and my ailerons?

Bob: Waco brother # 160

WacoNut

If you want it to be correct then do the surgery.
It may not fly right with that much difference in the aileron's/

Stickbuilder

Dang it! I said it bass ackward. Yes you need to correct the setup. The link does not maintain the plane of the Interplane struts. It leans a little toward the trailing edge at the top. John, thanks for catching my screw up.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Hey all,
Just wanted to introduce myself. I have been lurking around here for the past couple of weeks. I recently picked up an original 1/6 Pica kit that is partially built from an estate sale, and am looking forward to getting started on it. After watching the auction last night on E-bay I am happy with the price I picked mine up at. (nearly half). Just wanted to say that everyones projects look great and I will be pleased if mine come out half as well.
I was thinking of putting a 91 Magnum 4 stroke in my Waco, is that too much engine for this plane?
Red.