khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Here's more of the tailwheel assembly.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Now for the "finished" piece. When you look at the prototype, the post exits perpendicular to the bottom edge of the fuse. The way the kit tailwheel mounts, it "leans" forward. In order to get the angle correct, the black tailwheel mount must be shimmed. I used a wheel collar to get the angle I wanted, when I do the permanent mount, I'll make a wooden wedge to place on top of the black mount so that the tailwheel pivot is at the proper angle. The same mounting screw holes can still be used. The hole in the fiberglass fairing must be elongated to clear the post and the brace.

It's obviously a heavier setup than the included one, but is lighter than you might think, because of all the solder and brass. The wheel is actually heavier than the entire bracket. Looks better than the one that comes with the ARF, don't you think?

pimmnz

Much better.
Evan, WB #12.

Ricatic

Jeesh, you guys do some amazing stuff. I like the new tailwheel a lot. If you guys keep it up, it could be easier to build the kit. Oh, I forgot, thats your goal.

Stickbuilder

Well, Now since you can get the plans from the AMA, and the parts for the build are posted right here, what's your excuse? Sheesh, you can even get the cowl from one of several companies, and the wheel pants as well. I'm doing a compression style sprung landing gear, and Khodges has come up with a tailwheel, I guess you'll have to build one.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Oh, forgot to post the gear drawing..... heh....heh The only thing that will be different is a longer threaded lug, and a compression spring under the nut.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

damifino, didja get the e-mail that I sentcha?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

damifino

STICKBUILDER- I printed off pages 4 & 10 to see how they would come out. The 6" reference on page 10 printed 5 7/8" and the 3" ref. on page 4 printed out 2 31/32". Hopefully we can overcome this. I have not done the math yet but maybe the error is consistent and can be corrected with a copier set to enlarge 102.2% !! I know, I know! We can't do a tenth of a percentage point on a copier so 102% would suffice if the copier is capable, yes?

Stickbuilder

Maybe when I get to the website with ChrisMH, the thing will work as it's supposed to. Failing that, I can get all the pages copied, and send them snail mail. Of course, It could be because it's a jpeg file too. Is there another type of file that keeps the original dimension better?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

HarryJ

My Feedback: (98)

Here is the tailwheel I'm going to use on my Genesis Waco-YMF. Max dia 2 3/4", should be able to scale down to 1/5 scale.

HarryJ

My Feedback: (98)

OOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooops....................... .didn't get image.

Stickbuilder

Durn show-off

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

HarryJ

My Feedback: (98)

Still operating with one hand, not much better than two at times.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Master Chief-- If it's true that great minds think alike, could it also be true that Navy Chiefs and Air Force Lt.'s can do the same?
I have been thinking of the exact same thing for my plane (your sprung main gear struts) almost down to the eraser marks on the drawings . It's amazing, and more than a little scary. I feel a lot better about it now, I guess it WILL work.

Right now, my next change to the ARF will be the ailerons. The ARF's hinge in the middle, where the prototype's are top hinged. Since mine is gonna have a ton of differential, the small gap at the bottom of the aileron will be no problem. As you can see in the first pic, I filled in the "notch" on the top half and then sanded the hinge surface flat, at an angle to permit the surface to clear when the aileron is in the 'down" position. I'll also sheet the tops and bottoms with 1/64 ply and strip them with 0.080 in. styrene angles to make the corrugated surfaces. The prototype has 31 ribs per aileron (each surface), so it'll take a bunch of angles to do it.

As the late, great, Jackie Gleason used to say, "And Awaaaay We Go!"

mmattockx

Bill,

For what you want to do a pdf is the best choice. Get the copies scanned at 100% and they can be printed at 100% with no issues on most printers. JPEG's will never give you a consistent scaling from page to page...


Mark

damifino

#1- I got the e-mail. No problem making them, however, let me know Monday your thinking on the thickness. I'm thinking around .050 stainless. I'll knock the corners down so you won't get cut, OK?

#2- Landing gear spring eye is no problem either, gimme a bolt size and I'll do up a couple of long ones so you can cut to lenth.

#3- I can wait on the wood parts drawings. Hopefully the web page deal will work. If not, the USPS can bring them to me.

Flew my Super Skybolt again today. Man, what a YS 110 FZ will do for a .60 size bipe. Can you say B A L L I S T I C ? She'll fly nice and slow with that 14 X 7 MA 3 blade prop. Point her straight up at half throttle and she goes pretty darn good, WFO and she becomes real small, real fast, rolling along the way if you want! I know it's an ARF, but I gave her a little soul by cutting a forward cockpit and building a new instrument panel/cowling for the pilot. The windscreens were cut from the stock, full canopy and a little scrap vinyl and pinheads make up the 'upholstery'. Scale appearing gear struts have since been added as well as a smoke system. The exhaust exits the bottom of the cowling in a scale location via the stock YS muffler screwed to a custom header I made.

Also thrown in here is a picture of my modified Bruce Tharpe Venture 60 kit. I built-up and planked the foredeck and cowling, moved the cockpit back, clipped the wings, built the floats from a kit and scratch built the float struts, scale-like dual rudder steering and retract stuff. Flies real nice with a Saito .080.

Michaelj2k

Guys,
If you look at the drawing of the blister locations Hughes500E posted in message #1042, you will see that the top of the cowl as indicated on the drawing is actually 180 degrees off. On a radial engine, the #1 cylinder is always at the top. So when mounting the cowl, make sure that the two blisters for the #1 cylinder are at the top and not the bottom as indicated by the drawing.

ChrisMH

Sorry, Bill, didn't touch the Internet over the weekend

Send anything you want posted to: [email protected] and I'll put it up right quick!

Chris
WACO Brotherhood #15

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I think that is an illusion; if you considered the blisters that are closer together as a cylinder pair, then you're right, but it's actually the blisters that are further away from each other that constitute a cylinder pair. Most all the pictures I have of YMF's all show the blisters essentially the same distance apart all around the cowl. It would actually depend on the model, and the engine used, as to the proper spacing of the valve blisters, and the Jake's valve train is fairly evenly spaced.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

That's the whole idea of my post:
in order to build this Pica model scale, you have to use the Cowl with the grouped blisters like the picture I posted.
This Pica model is scaled after the Waco YMF-3 NC-14031

If you want it to be scale and use blisters that are spaced equally all the way around, don't use the #'s NC-14031 on it.



As far as I know there are only two kits available, the blue one and the red and white one.
I know about the blue one and I just bought a kit of the red and white one. I was hoping the #'s were different but it too is NC-14031

Anyone have a kit or a set of plans with different #'s??????

flyguy888

My Feedback: (63)

I just pulled up som pics of the NC-14031 and in the pictures it shows both types of blister layout. The oldest black and white photos show equal spacing, the newer color ones show grouped. Obviously it was fitted with a different cowl at some point because maybe it had a different engine put in or somthin. Point being if the full scale had different ones you can't go wrong having one or the other.

http://www.nationalwacoclub.com/f3f5album/

Stickbuilder

Okay Chris, Yo now have the e-,ailed parts tracings. Let's see what you can do with them....[8D]

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

And as the late (Greater) John Wayne once said,........."NOT HARDLY"!!!

The very Idea an Air Scout Butter Bar, in the same general area of a Master Chief, and one who was Chief of the Boat as well.....The very idea.....

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Khodges,

I just printed the photo of the, "Shaky Jake", and checked the spacing on the rocker boxes. On the Jacobs engine the rocker boxes are spaced dead on evenly both between cylinders and on the same sylinders. It would then follow that the YMF cowl had the blisters evenly spaced, while the UMF would have used the paired blisters. I can't see where it would make a great difference, since this is at best a stand-off scale model. Pica stated that they did not have to deviate from the scale outline, but there are enough items where ease of building would preclude this from ever being a Top Gun caliber model. Please, let's not have a general falling out over anything as trivial as this. Me? I like them both.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I'm not sure the conversation would turn negative, it's important, however, I do stand corrected in light of the above, many thanks.