mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Bill

Thanks for pointing that out I missed that one

ceije

to all,
some more pictures of N89B i hope the're an aid to those constructing
enjoy,
chris melhus ceije 196

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Robert

You’ve been busy today your windscreens look good.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Chris

Great pictures that must have been a thrill getting that close.

Errol Levin

Hi Chris

At this point I am busy planning the sheeting prior to covering. I am also busy with the wing struts, but have encountered a problem with the angle of the screws coming out at the top and bottom of the centre strut. The angle seems to be too large. This means I would have to bend the screws to get them to match the other wing mounts. This is messing with my head so I have moved on to something else.

Regards the flying wires I have not given them any thought at present, but I will visit the aeroscale site and have a look. Regarding the length of these wire I would imagine the best thing to do is to assemble the plane and measure them more accurately.

ERROL # 204

RICKSTUBBZ

Chris,

Thanks for sharing your pictures. And the paint scheme design web site. Playing off what Dan has already said…It must have been great to be able to get that close to the WACO. That is one chunk of wood bolted on the front of that thing……..

By any chance do you have any detail shots of the cowl as it sets on the floor? I am interested in how it is segmented and in how the parts actually go together.

Errol Levin

Chris

Had a look at the Aeroscale site. Good quality products and worth considering. Would you know what the dimensions the full scale wires are so that I can work out what size the Aeroscale wire would be.

John, your input would be welcome in this regard.

ERROL #204

skylarkmk1

Errol,

The wires are about 1/2" wide. P-1

Rick,

The cowl separates at the horizontal line with the diamond plates. The silver dots are some of the fasteners that hold the cowl together. It is roughly 2/3s top cowl and 1/3 bottom cowl. P-2 & P-3

Note - This 1/3-2/3 division is for most modern cowls such as NC 14081. The cowl on NC 14031 (the Pica/Paul Matt subject plane) is an original 1 piece cowl for a Jacobs engine (even bumps). The Cowl is fitted to a Continental engine with an improvised mounting method. The Continental engine is smaller in diameter than the Jacobs and the usual mounting with the felt pads would not work, so during restoration a new mounting was devised. So yes, technically it is a UMF (Continental engine) with a Jacobs cowl making it a YMF in appearance.

mogman

Errol.

That is what I did. Assemble the plane with all the flying wire attachments in place the measure the length pin to pin. There is a little adjustment provided at the forked ends. I was also a bit concerned regarding the length, but as it turned out....no worrys.

You will find Hans very nice to deal with. On my 40%, I went with the 4.7x M4 main wires and 3.7 x M3 for the tail.

Cheers,
Dave.
W/B #180

ceije

rickstubbz,
sorry to say that with all my excitement i failed to take any shots of the cowl, be assured its on my list for the next trip along with several other shots i messed one hell of a brain fart.


errol,
yes i did measure the wires, and according to the owner and my measureing stick and dead eye they did come out the same-12mmx4mm-on my next visit i'll take a micrometer and get it exact.


skylarkmk1,
yes, your right my bust, i'll try add footnotes later on today.

chris melhus ceije 196

Errol Levin

John and Chris

By your photos and measurements that would make the 1:4 scale wires 3mm wide and 0.8mm thick with 2.5mm threads.

ERROL #204

Errol Levin

John

Do the horizontal and vertical stabilisers, rudder and wings all have pinked tape around the edges? If so which edges and what widths?

Also the rib stitching I intend to get from Scale Rib Stitch. What is the width of the pinked tape covering it?

I intend using Oratex as a covering, and they make pinked tape so I need to know all the above.

ERROL #204

Errol Levin

Peter

I see you are online. Have you had any experience with Oratex?

ERROL #204

FMBB

Hi Chris,

the length should be 8000mm which gives you the total length of the wire provided with the kit. I do not know the exact length of each wire, as the customer has to make this fit to his built. Length from model to model may be different and the method of fasting the wire is also different so to give a certain length for each landing or flying wire would lead to problems.

Peter
Brother #170

FMBB

Hi Errol,

not really . I have used it sometimes as far as I remember it was ok. No problems nice to work with. There is nothing which I know would make me not to use it again.

Peter brother # 170

skylarkmk1

Errol,

Generally - any place an internal structure is touched by the fabric covering is also covered with the pinked reinforcing tape as in P-1 (a 1937 YKS shown) which means all stringers, ribs, leading and trailing edges, insides of aileron bays, plywood panels (bottoms of the fuel tank bays), etc. So yes the Rudder, Vertical and Horizontal stabs and elevator are covered with the tapes. Ribs and stringers usually use 2" wide tape. Edges such a wing tips, the curves on the rudder, elevator and horizontal and vertical stabs use tape cut on the bias (45°). It appears that the tail surfaces on the YMF/UMF and YKS use 4" Bias tape on the edges. The wing tips may need 6" Bias tape and 6" regular tape on the leading edge. The rib stitch will vary on certain aircraft depending on whether it is inside the area covered by the prop wash or not. Usually it is 2" spacing for the Waco wings. The fuselage usually does not have any stitching, nor does the wing were a fuel tank is located. Any penetrations are reinforced with extra fabric cut with "Pinking Shears" with the appropriate pink pitch (spacing and size of the pinked edges).

P-2 1937 YKS tail surfaces showing the stiching and tape. DO NOT use as a guide for the YMF as the diagonal bracing is different.
P-3 1937 YKS elevator hinge with 4" tape ove the leading edge and a reinforcing patch around the hinge block

ceije

errol,
i do hope these pictures help you out a little. all photos are of N89B owned by harry hendrickson of ocala florida

#1 rudder, vertical stab. showing pinking and stitching. trim paint is 2 in. gold 1/2 in. green 1/2 in. gold, if you look close pinking tape is visible under the 2 in. trim.

#2 horixontal stab. and elevator pinking

#3 same as #2 other side. notice the leather protection patch

#4 lower wing pinking

#5 same showing more of stitching and pinking

#6 upper center section of wing hand grip pinking

#7 lower wing left wing tip pinking and overlap. wing gold trim is 7 in. wide with the same 1/2 in. spaceing

#8 rudder trim tab pinking

#9 another trim tab shot

#10 stab. and rudder wire mount, hinge, stitching and pinking

#11 luggage hatch lock and tag-step/kickplate into side
rear baggage: 75 lbs. max
remove all baggage
for aerobatic flight



#12 kickplate opened

enjoy,
chris melhus

ceije

errol, i think this is one of those situations where we have to envoke DAVE PLATT's statement "sometimes you have to make it a little wrong in order to look right."

chris melhus ceije 196

skylarkmk1

Chris,

You can add another statement, don't know who said it, If it looks right, it is right.

ceije

john,
you got that right.
chris melhus ceije 196

acerc

Does anyone know enough about the stits paint to tell me what i can use to spray the black swoops with. I only need less than two ounces, really hate to spend 40 bucks for a quart, justfor that.

johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

Robert
I must have missed it in one of your earlier posts. What engine are you using?
John

mogman

Robert,

F&M Stitts list their Dakota black at$26.60 /qt. Maybe the price has changed???

I Have a confession to make[&o].....I did exactly what you are thinking...I didn't want to drag all the spray equipment out just to paint the small amount of black on my plane. So.....I used Krylon Fusion, I've used it before, no issues. This time it took 3 weeks for the paint to dry sufficiently so as not to leave fingerprints, the cowl is still not 100% dry in a couple of spots.[>:]

This was 3 or 4 days after the polytone was applied...maybe I should have waited longer....still out-gassing???

If I had to do it again, I would definately, for sure, go with the polytone!

Do you have any of your old masking paper that you used when you sprayed the second colour, around? If so, try a rattle can spray over the polytone and see what happens.

Cheers,
A sad, but wiser(now) Dave.

acerc

Hello guy's,
First off, all those that I sent the wire to I'm sorry to say but IT STRECHES. Several flight's now and with each one it got a little looser. Taking it off today. I'll make them out of piano wire.
John Im running a RCGF 26. So far it run's great, alway's starts on second flip. Smooth transition.
Dave, true it's $26 a quart plus $12 to ship. But that's the way I'm going just to be safe. What's another 40 after all this, right.

aminiet

Robert.

Piano wire was going to be my first choice for the flying wires but concerned about the weight on a already heavy model, and I am not done yet became interested in aluminum welding rods, now with your report on the steel wires makes me re think that issue as aluminum wires will probably stretch even more.
I would like to know how much more weight your model gained and what it did to the CG.

Thank you.

Angel