Help with an O & R engine
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Help with an O & R engine
Hello; My dear friend Elwood has an old O&R that hasn't been run since teh early 60's. He can't remember what the fuel mix should be. He has a glo plug with it but would like to run it on gas since teh points and ignition system is in fine shape. He has an old Brooklin /dodger he wants to use this engine on. Where do I start? the fuel mix, what is it? where do I set the ignition advance lever to start it, and where is the best running position. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Help with an O & R engine
The "Classic" mix is 3 parts gas to one part 90 weight oil. But not the modern rear end stuff. The sulphur compounds in the rear end oil will foul that spark plug in a jiffy.
It needs to be regular 90 weight motor oil. Stupidly rare stuff these days so tell him to get some 60 weight Harley Davidson oil as a very decent substitute. You can ONLY get this at a proper Harley shop I'm afraid. Leather and the beanie are optional......
It needs to be regular 90 weight motor oil. Stupidly rare stuff these days so tell him to get some 60 weight Harley Davidson oil as a very decent substitute. You can ONLY get this at a proper Harley shop I'm afraid. Leather and the beanie are optional......
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Help with an O & R engine
That would be SAE 70 oil, that can be obtained at a motorcyle shop. Mix w/2 parts Coleman fuel. Make sure it is SAE 70 (not 90) oil. OR, you could use castor oil, Sig or Klotz is good.
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Help with an O & R engine
Virtually all ignition engines used in the thirties required a 3 part white gas to one part of SAE 70 oil. They can also be safely run on 3 parts of methanol to one part of Castor oil. I have run my Super Cyclone on regular FAI fuel and it has shown no internal parts deterioration. Be advised that methanol fuel is a no-no in plastic tanks, a metal tank or balloon tank is needed.
Timer arm position for the Ohlsson engines in retarded or starting position is about 7 oclock. The arm is rotated counter clockwise to its advanced position. One can permanently place the timer in its advanced position but I would not advise hand starting. Rather, an electric starter should be employed to avoid banged up fingers.
Art Schroeder
Timer arm position for the Ohlsson engines in retarded or starting position is about 7 oclock. The arm is rotated counter clockwise to its advanced position. One can permanently place the timer in its advanced position but I would not advise hand starting. Rather, an electric starter should be employed to avoid banged up fingers.
Art Schroeder
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Help with an O & R engine
Hello; Thank you all for this help. I had hoped to get the spark plug working, but it's good to know that I can use glo fuel and not risk harming it.
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RE: Help with an O & R engine
Hi all,
I just inherited an old Ohlsson and Rice 60 engine and have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone can answer....
1. It was frozen, so I cooked it in antifreeze for a couple of hours and it cleaned right up and now turns over freely. I didn't cook the electrical system for obvious reasons.
2. It has a capacitor that is wired to the spark plug and to the spark armature. My question is do I need a battery to start and or run the engine or will the capacitor supply enough juice to fire the plug.
3. Does anyone know where to get replacement parts? The gas tank is pretty warn and the spark plug is also pretty fouled so I would like to replace them.
4. What gas mix should I use with this engine? Regular gas with some mixture of castor, or will it work with 10% nitro?
If anyone can point me in the right directions, please let me know.
Thx.
Scott
I just inherited an old Ohlsson and Rice 60 engine and have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone can answer....
1. It was frozen, so I cooked it in antifreeze for a couple of hours and it cleaned right up and now turns over freely. I didn't cook the electrical system for obvious reasons.
2. It has a capacitor that is wired to the spark plug and to the spark armature. My question is do I need a battery to start and or run the engine or will the capacitor supply enough juice to fire the plug.
3. Does anyone know where to get replacement parts? The gas tank is pretty warn and the spark plug is also pretty fouled so I would like to replace them.
4. What gas mix should I use with this engine? Regular gas with some mixture of castor, or will it work with 10% nitro?
If anyone can point me in the right directions, please let me know.
Thx.
Scott
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RE: Help with an O & R engine
Scott. I run my sparkers on Coleman fuel and Klotz oil, mixed almost 2:1 to be safe. Personally, I'd rather clean up the excess oil that risk overheating my antiques. If you can get 100 octane aviation fuel, that's really good to use, too.
You will need close to 4 volts to start it. I usually use three fresh D batteries wired in series; I made a little box, but Radio Shack sell battery holders, too.
Here's a good parts source:
Woody Bartelt
3706 N. 33rd St.
Galesburg. MI 49053
269-665-9693
[email protected]
If you plan to put it in a plane that has r/c gear, you need a transistorized ignition system. The old capacitor (condensor) systems can generate glitches. Contact Larry Davidson for plugs and ignition parts:
http://www.antiquemodeler.org/Model%...s/ignition.htm
or
Floyd Carter
[email protected]
There's an almost essential mod to the O&R 60 that is simple and SAM legal. I did it to mine and it really cuts down on the vibration a lot. Boil the crank in vinegar to clean it and apply about 1/8" of solder around the bottom curve of the counterweight on the back side along the bottom edge. File it nice and smooth and even. This extra counterweight will give you a great running engine without shaking the firewall out of your plane.
You will need close to 4 volts to start it. I usually use three fresh D batteries wired in series; I made a little box, but Radio Shack sell battery holders, too.
Here's a good parts source:
Woody Bartelt
3706 N. 33rd St.
Galesburg. MI 49053
269-665-9693
[email protected]
If you plan to put it in a plane that has r/c gear, you need a transistorized ignition system. The old capacitor (condensor) systems can generate glitches. Contact Larry Davidson for plugs and ignition parts:
http://www.antiquemodeler.org/Model%...s/ignition.htm
or
Floyd Carter
[email protected]
There's an almost essential mod to the O&R 60 that is simple and SAM legal. I did it to mine and it really cuts down on the vibration a lot. Boil the crank in vinegar to clean it and apply about 1/8" of solder around the bottom curve of the counterweight on the back side along the bottom edge. File it nice and smooth and even. This extra counterweight will give you a great running engine without shaking the firewall out of your plane.
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RE: Help with an O & R engine
In a response to one of the posts above, NEVER use an electric starter on a O&R. There is no support to keep from shoving the prop drive washer back into the points housing and the crank pin will get pressed into the back of the crankcase when you press the starter into the prop. There is only a ball bearing for thrust loads and a plain bearing to support the front of the crank radially.