Well flight number 9 went fine this morning. Hovered around for my 5 minutes. Changed to the second battery and no tailrotor. &^%$. So I came home and called Hobby Services. Talked to a guy name Richard who was extremely helpful on troubleshooting this, so I will pass it on to you all.

Very simple really. Disconnect the Deans plug that comes from the tailrotor motor and goes into the eboard. Take your battery and plug it in or just barely connect them to the plug coming from the tailrotor. If the motor spins, then it's your eboard and thats it.

So Ihave a new eboard in the mail.

Ch - sorry to hear about all your problems! I don't think your experience is typical.

I was hovering around real good too and really getting a feel for the thing. But much of this stuff is good learning experience for the next time or someone else. I now have a stash of mini zip ties

Sending me an $84 part, so I'm not upset.

Adding "mini-fuses" to both the main motor & tail motor will protect the E-board from "smoke'n."
I found the mini-blade fuses at an auto parts store. I 've added a 5 amp to the tail, and a 18 amp to the main, (no holder, just soldered-on with heat-shrink tubing protection), although I no longer use the 3in1 board, it still protects the (2) ESC's from high current failure, if they don't have overload protection.
High current load on my main motor caused my 3in1 to "snap, crackle, & pop![&o]" Then the motor went up in a plume of smoke[X(]! I must say it was a cool effect at 20 feet!

Rick

This is interesting, tell me more. You mean the regular colored fuse's? How was the wiring and where? Since i am moving up on to the next step, may be good to hook one of these up to the engine.

Yep, those tiny little blade fuses (Mini-Blade) available at almost any auto parts store, I got mine at a NAPA. I just found a good location for the main motor fuse (18 amp on stock motor), under the belly mid-way between the ESC and the motor. I cut the (+) wire (mine was red), soldered the 12ga wire to each side of the fuse, be sure to slide the heat-shrink tubing on first[:@]! Then heat shrink the tubing over the stub ends of the fuse, covering any exposed wire/solder. I used a small zip-tie to secure the fuse under the battery tray.
I did the same thing with the tail motor (5 to 8 amps on stock motor), just mounted it under the canopy near the tail's ESC, same procedure just a smaller amperage fuse with smaller wire. You could buy the holders for the fuses, but I thought they were kinda bulky, and would add unnessasary weight.
I got my new Castle Creations Pegasus 35-P in tonight, overload protection or not it's gonna get the same treatment, as the POS that's on there now, the Evoflight 20. I'm thinking of smashing it with my sledge hammer, that may help reduce my (frustration/anger/rage) with trying to get that darn thing to arm!

Rick

CH,

As mentioned before, the luck you're having is not typical. Don't give up on RC helicopters just yet. Look at it as preparation for larger RC helicopters.

Ted

OH I'm not quitting this, just re-structuring. Tower has been good about the whole thing though. No issues their at all. I have an HDX in the mail from another company for a winter project.

I also have the 60 concepte RTF in the closet. ran it up once about a year back. I actually feel I can hover that with no problem so I may get the local pro to set it up for me. Not sure yet.