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axe cp help?

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Old 05-29-2009 | 09:39 AM
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Default axe cp help?

ok so i lfew my axe cp for the first time last night and need some help. i think its out of adustment because the rudder was making the heli spin counter clockwise and i would input right rudder to keep it straight and after a while i had to keep full right rudder to make sure it held straight. any ideas if i just need to adjust the gyro or does it need something else?
Old 05-29-2009 | 10:40 AM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

Sounds like your tail motor is going, if you bought it used then it is something that definetly needs to be replaced. The reason it spins counter clockwise is because of the main rotors torque spinning it and the tail motor doesnt have enough juice to spin it in the other direction. Again if it was bought used the original one it came with is probably still in it and the brushs in the tail motor are worn out.
Old 05-29-2009 | 12:25 PM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

k sounds good. It was used and I bought a v2 and upgraded the head to the v3 head. should i also upgrade the tail rotor to the direct drive or just live with the geared drive?
Old 05-29-2009 | 03:03 PM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

The gear reduction makes the N60 tail motor run cooler, the direct-drive reacts slightly faster, but works the heck out of that little brushed motor. A direct-drive brushless motor works even better, but requires an additional BL ESC & some modding to the tail mount.

I did a Belt driven tail on my AXE CPv1 several years ago, and have never looked at an electric driven tail till my nano-sized Walkera 4g3, and I converted that to BL within the first week. I 've included a few pics of the BDT system on my MX300 (was an AXE CPv1 at one point in time).

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Old 05-30-2009 | 10:17 AM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">carlosponti,<o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Of course you know that when you put in full left rudder, the tail motor stops turning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This means "counter clockwise" yaw comes from the torque of the main motor.
</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">So, whether you have a stock brushed tail motor or a brushless motor, geared or direct drive, nose left yaw will be the same.<o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">No matter what drives the tail rotor, a tail motor or a belt or torque tube from the main motor, the tail rotor always has to provide a clockwise yawing force whenever<o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">the main motor is driving the main rotors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span><o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">As the brushes in the stock motor "wear out" you will find you need more and more right rudder just to keep the nose straight in a hover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>A peculiarity of the Axe<o></o></font> <font size="3">pre-V3 3 in 1 boards is that as the battery discharges the trim changes so that more right rudder is required for an almost discharged battery than a fresh one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>So you will find that at the start of a flight you'll be holding a little left rudder and at the end a little right rudder.<o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">There are two things you can do to help as the tail motor wears out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>First, use the rudder trim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Eventually you will have it all the way to the right.
</font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Second, turn the bottom potentiometer on the 3 in 1 board fully clockwise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>See the 2007 V2 manual.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This sets the tail rotor trim to full right rudder.<o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">With any luck a picture will accompany this showing how to use an Align 12mm boom servo mount to mount the tail motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This is a big help.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It is stronger than stock so you won't be breaking tail motor brackets and it provides more of a heat sink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>You can use it with geared or direct drive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I would stay with the geared drive.<o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">When you get a new tail motor, after you've soldered on the wires, put a thick layer of household glue over the terminals, wires and capacitor leads so they cannot move.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>If the terminals vibrate loose the brushes also come loose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I've started "breaking in" my tail motors by running them for an hour with power from two AA batteries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This idea is to gently wear in the brushes to the curvature of the commutator to maximize physical contact, which lowers electrical resistance and reduces arcing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>You can use the stock battery holder to do this, just hold a wire on each end of one slot while you put the batteries in and the tension will hold the wires.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span><o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">I can't say breaking in the tail motor helps because I don't have enough flites to compare.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I am getting over 100 flites on the tail motors, and hoping for more than 200.<o></o></font></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><o><font size="3"></font></o></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="3">Finally, as you learn to fly you'll will almost certainly have some very hard landings, the blades will flex and hit the boom denting and bending it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>The boom is usually easily straightened enough to keep flying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>But if you have a belt drive, because the belt goes down the boom, it is more difficult to fix a bent boom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I think the belt mod costs around $100, which is roughly three tail motors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>It's a tough calculation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>I'd love to have belt drives on my three Axes now that I seldom smack into the ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>But for learning to fly, maybe a tail motor is a better option.</font></p>
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Old 06-01-2009 | 10:53 AM
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Default RE: axe cp help?



BTW #11 knitting needles from walmart can be used as tail booms when the time comes $3.50 for 2! </p>
Old 06-01-2009 | 12:45 PM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

any idea why the tail motor costs 25 bucks for both the geared and the direct drive when the main motor is only 15? i saw the blade cp pro has a direct drive motor that looks like it might be the same for 10 bucks?

thanks for the tip about the tail boom.
Old 06-01-2009 | 06:29 PM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

The tail motor off the Blade CP Pro will work fine, even though it's slightly smaller. See the comparison pics below, the BCPP is on the left, the stock AXE CP tail motor on the right.

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Old 06-01-2009 | 08:57 PM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

is that the same motor as this one? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1322

that is the one i was asking about. it looks like the blade cp pro 2 that the part i was thinking is on.
Old 06-02-2009 | 10:30 AM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

thats link you put up is the same exact thing good find
Old 06-02-2009 | 07:39 PM
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Default RE: axe cp help?

Motor life will always be a problem with these helis. After 11 mos. I finally parked mine due to the cost of replacements. But then again I'd fly 6 packs a day.
Old 06-03-2009 | 10:44 AM
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Default RE: axe cp help?



If the cost of replacement is a problem i did a brushless tail on mine with a HH gyro all in all after it was all together it was only about $50. I used a towerpro 12 amp brushless esc from hobbycity for 11$ + shipping, a gy400 gyro $20 shipped, and a gp ammo 12-30-3850 brushless motor $20+ shipping (its a direct bolt on replacement for the n60 except its brushless), im using a stock cpv3 tail prop and heat sink and so far (about 50 flights) it works great!!! No brushs to wear out and a lot more tail power.</p>

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