RE: axe cp thread
 

IF your spinning up and not lifting off then that means that your blades aren't generating lift.
Try this to remedy your problem.
1. Disconnect motors from from the 3-in-1
2. Turn on transmitter
3. Connect battery
4. Move the throttle up and down
5. Note the movement of the swashplate, it should move down as you give more throttle.
6. If it moves make sure that your tracking links are at OEM lengths
6. If it doesn't move then check the servos with another receiver first
7. If servos work then the problem is that the Axe doesn't like you and you should give it to me ;) (just kidding... you should tho)

RE: axe cp thread
 

Hey Mark..got any info. on the Nitro Raptor G-2? Looks like a lot of heli for the money. Please, anyone with a Raptor or knowledge, please post.

RE: axe cp thread
 

what are you people using for lipo's in the heli max axe cp?

RE: axe cp thread
 

check your swashplate, my bearing has a tendency to slip out of the bearing seat[img][/img][img][/img]

RE: axe cp thread
 

I'm using this [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-HELICOPTER-ESKY-11-1-LIPO-BALANCE-CHARGER-ADAPTOR_W0QQitemZ270118891372QQihZ017QQcategoryZ25 63QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]LiPo package off eBay[/link]. Read [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5823831/tm.htm]this thread[/link] for the pros and cons of using this LiPo with the Axe CP.

RE: axe cp thread
 

I finally found it, after 2 hrs of staring at the heli on my table.. changing electronics, etc... I realized that the swashplate wasn't quite right... the front rod had gotten too long, I cranked it back down to level the swashplate and bingo!! we have flight again!!

RE: axe cp thread
 

Aaaah... sometimes we get so caught up looking for complex solutions to simple problems we overlook the simplest solutions. Guess this means that you're keeping your Axe!!! Welcome back to the skies my friend.

RE: axe cp thread
 

yep, going to keep one, part the other out.. and then add a t-rex in the near future.. with the breezes that are always present, I'm thinking I can darned near double my flying opportunities by going with the bigger one..

I'll still keep the CP though..

RE: axe cp thread
 

how about this Strat.....

1. Cut a tailboom in half
2. Attach the other Axe at the other end
3. Wire the servos to ONE receivers (love those Y-harnesses)
4. Connect ONE of the motors in reverse polarity
5. Mount the main blades and paddles on the reversed motor backwards

You have just made yourself a CH-47D Chinook!!
SHWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!

RE: axe cp thread
 

In the spirit of the GUINNESS Brewmasters, "Brilliant!"

RE: axe cp thread
 

I do good to fly one heli at this point, I think the option of connecting two together is pretty much out of my league! lmao

:D

RE: axe cp thread
 

Good and bad idea. tHAT WOULD BE PRETTY COOL but the servos on one of them would have to be reversed and it would be very unstable. If I had $400 to waste I would definitly try it though.

About takaling altitude, I find flying high to be easy. Easyier than nose in at least. I took her up to about twenty feet in the second week with no training gear. It was about nine o'clock at night so there wasn't any wind. When you are flying high you have to remember it is the same controls but the movement of the heli appears to be less but it is the same.

Happy flying.
I am still messing with the wabliung heli.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Alright everyone. I need help with my new flybar weights I just got from Tower. I order them and they come in without set screws, and tower was less than helpful. Basically they said I have to buy the entire screw set and hope that the set screws in that work. My problem is that the hole in the flybar weight that the flybar goes through is quite a bit bigger than the flybar itself. Will it work ok as long as the set screws are facing the same direction? Ie... both up or both down? Any help would be great!

Thanks, Stevo

RE: axe cp thread
 

Hare it sounds like you bought an extra set of OE flybar collars. You need [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK184&P=0]1/16" wheel collars[/link] so that they'll fit the bar. Good Luck!

RE: axe cp thread
 

LOL. Leave it to me to do things the hard way! LOL Thanks for the info. I spent a good portion of my evening trying to change out my feathering spindle to the upgrade. THAT WAS A PAIN! I had the hardest time getting the berings from the blade rgips to let go of the spindle. But I think I got it. The new hex type bolts do seem to stick out slightly more than the old phillis head screws, is this what everyone else is experiencing? Thanks again for the info!

Stevo

RE: axe cp thread
 

They do stick out a little but are a far better solution than those sorry screws they were using! One of my old screws broke off even with the spindle and blades and parts went flying in all directions, hitting one bystander. Thank goodness no one was hurt! The protruding hex heads did not interfere with folding the blades back so they could go in the blade holder.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Thanks again for the info. It's funny, while changing my feathering spindle. I noticed something about my flybar that I hadn't noticed before. I could see the screw threads for the paddle on one side but not on the other.My axe always had a slight wobble at low speeds but it smoothed out at high speed. But sure enough one paddle wasn't screwed in as far as the other by a difference of about a 1/16 of an inch. Being a total newbie, I can only suppose that this was the source of at least some of my wobble, and sure enough, it was a bit better when I adjusted it. Everybody was right on about thoroughly checking an RTF's structure and connections before flying. Thanks again!

Stevo

RE: axe cp thread
 

Hey
Would like to thank everyone here for the tips, hints, tricks, and new ideas i have received from this forum and all who contributes. I have went from always ending my atempts in a costly crash to at least being able to maintain a stable hover and returning to land intact. Also would like to thank my older brother SONNY for the encouragement to keep at it. Here are a few pics of my success and its due to you guys out there sharing the good, the bad, and the ugly. Keep up the good deeds!

RON

RE: axe cp thread
 

I want to pose a 2 part question to all you pros out there! First, Which would you consider a priority purchase, upgrading to a liPo set up for the axe or buying a new heli radio? Second part.... If you buy a new radio, what else do you have to buy in order to use the new radio with the axe? Thanks for listening to my newbie questions!

RE: axe cp thread
 

I'm pretty new to this so I don't know if I'm fully qualify, but based on the crapness factor alone, the stock NiMH batteries have to go! The NiMH's were good for hops and skids, but not for long hovers and nose-in learning. What did you have in mind with a new radio, by the way?

I just wanna say that I've finally joined the outdoor crowd...took her outside for the second time and it was sweet! For some reason, all I could think about after I landed and disengaged the battery was this song (sing it with me if you know the lyrics!):

"Butterfly in the sky, I can go twice as high
Take a look, it's in a book - Reading Rainbow."

haha...

RE: axe cp thread
 

Hare,
Dito on Heliko's response about the 1/16th wheel collars, but you can use the weights you got with the screw set, pain again from Tower, but they are right. You just have to find the pair that fits the threads on the weights, make sure it it a pair (same length, so hopefully same weight) and is doesn't matter a flip about which way the screws are oriented on the bar, Just NEED TO BE THE SAME DISTANCE FROM THE MAIN SHAFT. If, you rembered to count the turns to get the paddles off, and if you got the paddles back on at the same number of turns, and you didn't slip a thread-start when re-installing the paddles, (probablly a good idea, at this point, to find a 'Harbor-Freight Tools' and get a reasonablly priced electronic caliper. Make sure the paddled are at the same distance from the main mast (main rotor shaft) and slide the new suckers all the way out to the paddles and crank the screws down tight. Cannot over stress importance of equidistance on the paddled and new weights. get it wrong and you really screw up the head balance, but it will be real easy to diagnose (and fix).

Hex head screws on the Feathering Spindle upgrade will stick out further than the phillips head originals, but should not stick out far enough to interface with the rotor blades. If they do, your main blades will not be free to lead/lag the mast (will also cause balance and control problems) and, WORSE, you don't habe the bearings all the way into one or both blade grips, or the rubber 'o' ring bushings in the center hub. bad news either way, 1) the feathering spindle screws are not seated completely (and will be subject to breakage, potentially fatal situation), 2) the blades won't 'wag' correctly (some of you more experienced guys supply the correct term, please), resulting in imbalance of the mast to the point of failure (boom strike, uncontrollable bird, purchase of new blades, if you're lucky)

Tear it down and rebuild it again correctly, making sure everything goes back where it belongs, all the way, and recheck the balances.

Good Luck,

hope this helps before you experience any serious problems,

Be SAFE, have FUN!

RE: axe cp thread
 

Lipo's are your first and best upgrade at this point in your heli learning. Save the money now, learn on the AXE with lipos, then if and when you want a better heli get a better radio (DX7). Going with a different radio now will also mean adding a different speed control, receiver, etc.

RE: axe cp thread
 

I've been using capscrews for a while and they did hit my blades, but only when folding forward during a crash. I've since changed them out to [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXLBR0]Heli-max button head 2x5mm screws[/link] and smaller [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXLBR3]Helimax washers[/link] which have worked very well. The screw's head no longer contacts the blade and the smaller washer doesn't interfere with the outer race of the blade grip bearings making the head operate more smoothly. In the last pic you can see where the capscrew was hitting the blade before the switch.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Hey for you Axe-Positive fans out there:

Check these out - my finished 'Night Bird' :)

http://rcuvideos.com/item/8G1LNDMZQ5B1KSHT

:D

RE: axe cp thread
 

that is sooo cool Stryker