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-   -   axe cp thread (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/helimax-462/5211910-axe-cp-thread.html)

seabee890 06-15-2007 08:35 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 


ORIGINAL: harebearva

Thanks for all the help guys! OK while I'm on a roll, One more question. I'm sure there is a great reason for this but, why unplug the motor before doing this. If there isn't a battery attached to the heli, does the motor get any power? Is there a capacitor? or is there another reason? I need to move in next door to an experienced pilot and bug the fool outa him or her!

Thanks again! Stevo
Nope no capacitor, I sort of missunderstood your question, I was talking about unpluging the motor after flight, so when you plug the battery in next time, if the throttle gets bumped the blades won't turn. The axe cp stock has a safety feature to deal with this but it is a habit that I am working on towords my next heli.
I learned a lot of ritualistic things from here, Radd's School of Rotary Flight. http://www.dream-models.com/eco/index.html They take more time than it seems is neccesary some times but I try to treat this like I do my martial arts training ("you'll realize why I'm telling you this later in your journey.")
Congrats on the heat sink mod and happy flying.
Scott

s_mcflurry 06-15-2007 10:50 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 

ORIGINAL: Rotor13B
Unplug the motor and then unscrew the motor bolts. Push the motor straight down until the heatsink slides off then remove the heatsink through the larger opening in the frame. Mod and then replace in reverse order.They say it's a clip on sink, But they are aluminum so if you distort it then it going to be loose and trying to bend it back would just make it weak or possibly crack imo.


ORIGINAL: harebearva

Thanks for all the help guys! OK while I'm on a roll, One more question. I'm sure there is a great reason for this but, why unplug the motor before doing this. If there isn't a battery attached to the heli, does the motor get any power? Is there a capacitor? or is there another reason? I need to move in next door to an experienced pilot and bug the fool outa him or her!

Thanks again! Stevo

If you're just snapping the heat sink on and off then there's no need to unplug any wires at all. But Rotor13B wanted to avoid this and wanted to slide the heat sink on and off instead to avoid bending it, which requires removing the motor entirely.

R/C FLYR 06-16-2007 09:32 AM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Hi, i am using the stock radio at this time with no problems so far works real good, mine flies great, and i only paid 75.00 for it brand new!! have fun ...R/C FLYR :D

btamxx 06-16-2007 12:03 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 


ORIGINAL: Rotor13B

Unplug the motor and then unscrew the motor bolts. Push the motor straight down until the heatsink slides off then remove the heatsink through the larger opening in the frame. Mod and then replace in reverse order.They say it's a clip on sink, But they are aluminum so if you distort it then it going to be loose and trying to bend it back would just make it weak or possibly crack imo.;)
Just a note, any bending of the aluminum heat sink will distort it and make it out of round. No amount of bending will get it back to its perfect (nearly) round position so it may not get full contact with the motor all around. This leads to cooling deficiency. For better performance in cooling, I would suggest that you go to Radio Shack and pick up a small tube of transistor mounting heat sink compound. Use a very thin coat on the motor when installing the heat sink back on. This may seem like a very small increase in cooling, but you never know if a degree or two may keep it from getting to the critical heat temperature of the magnets. It is loss of magnetism that causes the wiring to frizzle.

IMHO

Bill

chaseman81 06-16-2007 09:07 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Nice job flying man! could hear some wind too. really good job!!

Chaseman81

harebearva 06-17-2007 07:35 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Maintenance question. How often and what parts do you lube on the axe?

Johnny_Zero 06-17-2007 08:20 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Lube is good.....I lube everyday if I can. LOL

harebearva 06-17-2007 09:02 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
LOL. Maybe I should specify which "AXE" I'm refering to! LOL

Johnny_Zero 06-17-2007 09:06 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
That was just too funny. I just couldn't resist. I am also a noob so I want to here the answer too. Too funny.

PilotLight 06-18-2007 12:15 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Lube your Balllinks and your main shaft. The swashplate slides up and down the main shaft so it should be free and slippery. Also, lube your slide block and center hub.

Ok, guys have fun with that, but please no pictures!

harebearva 06-18-2007 01:15 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Thanks for the infor pliotlight. I'm using 3 n 1 oil for lube. Is this acceptable or should I use something different. I'm reaonably sure K/Y is out of the question.

acadwheel 06-18-2007 10:11 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
:DHe said lube:D

acadwheel 06-18-2007 10:19 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Here is a little tip "I think"? I just talk to a friend of mine and he said to spray
brake cleaner into the tail motor (WITH NO BATTERY HOOKED UP!)
to spray out the carbon. Should give longer life to the tail motor.

Seems "strange" but my other friend said to put your new brushless motor into saline to break it in.

Sounds like there crazy or I need new friends!

Anyone have info on these two tips?

Heliko 06-18-2007 11:43 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Brake cleaner will probably work OK to clean the motor if it doesn't melt the plastic, but that other tip about saline is bizarre. I've never heard of it before. Brushless motors don't need break-in.
Honestly it's hard not to bust on this one, but Acadwheel I'd really like to know your friend's logic behind that tip.

seabee890 06-19-2007 09:01 AM

RE: axe cp thread
 
We need to keep the puns out of the hub of this thread.

seabee890 06-19-2007 10:32 AM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Will the nimh battery support a hh gyro and can I install one without running a complete separation? Darn thing is wandering on me, I realise some is ground effect and noob inexperience, should I try to turn up the gain on the 3-in-1 or does it only have a certain number of positions? The pictures in the manual don't really give the process justice. I am flying(sliding across the ground) in my shop so I have plenty of room and no wind but still have not mstered hovering yet. I don't want to bring it up to waist height for fear of really breaking something if I smack the ground.
Lastly, how often do you lube contact points, before every flight every hour of flight?
Thanks again in advance for the help.

PilotLight 06-19-2007 12:17 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
The HH gyro will draw more power, so you will get shorter flight times. I wouldn't adjust the 3-1 too much until you get it it the air. Try moving the trim tabs on the TX to help with hovering. Then, if it still needs adjustment, go to the 3-1 adjustment to get the trims centered on your TX.

Sorry about the puns, but I can't help how my advice is interpretted. I've only lubed mine once. You can see its still coated with 20 SAE small motor oil. (comes in a can like 3 in 1 oil)

Johnny_Zero 06-19-2007 12:24 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
What is wrong with a few puns. It is just a little humor. Lighten up.

Rotor13B 06-19-2007 05:16 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
A heading hold gyro isn't going to do anything for you until you can hold it in the air and could make the situation worse until you can. The problem is when your on the ground your giving rudder input to keep the heli tail in. As soon as it becomes airborn it wants to go to the last position that you moved your stick to. More often than not it's going to want to go side in on you and that's the last thing you need when trying to get it off the ground into a hover.

seabee890 06-19-2007 05:56 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
Thanks rotor13b, that makes a lot of sense. I am glad that I won't have to throw more money at this thing unless I bounce it off of the ground. The side-in effect is exactly what is happening, as far as I can tell.

As far as the pun thing goes, I guess I fell like the idiot for making that one. "We need to keep the puns out of the hub of this thread",,, hub of a helicopter,,, I guess I have to keep my day job. I love makings puns I just don't do a very good job of it sometimes.

thanks again for the info, I am really enjoying being a part of this forum.

betapilot 06-19-2007 06:30 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
hey guys, I have been taking a lot of flak from an unnamed (acadwheel) about my advancing the theory that you can break-in a brushless motor using a glass of water. I thought everyone knew of this or I would have posted the links sooner. I only have time to leave one right now but will post the others that I have read in a bit, and I won't even make any puns while doing it.

http://www.rcboataholic.com/motors/motor%20breakin.htm

well there ya go wheel

Rotor13B 06-19-2007 06:59 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 


ORIGINAL: betapilot

hey guys, I have been taking a lot of flak from an unnamed (acadwheel) about my advancing the theory that you can break-in a brushless motor using a glass of water. I thought everyone knew of this or I would have posted the links sooner. I only have time to leave one right now but will post the others that I have read in a bit, and I won't even make any puns while doing it.

http://www.rcboataholic.com/motors/motor%20breakin.htm

well there ya go wheel
See now i've heard of that with brushed motors, But I can't see the benefit of doing this with a brushless setup as there really isn't any wear parts except bushings/bearings.

Heliko 06-19-2007 07:46 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
I'm with Rotor. I don't see the point either. I checked out that link about water break-in. I still don't see how it pertains to BL motors. The article addresses brushes and bushings, but neither of those are used on brushless motors.

Johnny_Zero 06-19-2007 09:24 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
I read the post too. I really don't think that I would ever try that. I just can't beleive that can work. But on a different note, I am into overclocking every part of my computer. I did an experment with liquid cooling of computer equiptment. There is a special OIL that you can emerse your motheboard and any "non moving computer parts in' i.e. nothing with fans or a CD drive or Harddrives. This really works as the OIL is non-conductive. On the other hand water is VERY conductive. Maybe I am missing something but the post said something about:

"I know you might be thinking water and electronics don't mix. Water is an insulator and although we are not dealing with pure water, the water we use has a very high resistance. The real problem with using water is corrosion, so make sure you thoroughly dry the motor when you are done". I used to work for an electronics manufacture and the new assembled components that we made were washed in industrial "dish washers". Of course this was done with no power to the components. And when they were dried they worked perfect. Go ahead and spill some water into your computer while it is on and see what happens.

I know that I don't get PURE water from my tap....But hey, Isn't water mostly the same whether it is PURE of TAP water?

Don't try this at home folks!

acadwheel 06-19-2007 10:54 PM

RE: axe cp thread
 
OK betapilot, I did read the link and it looks like they are using brushed motors.
I think the water thing is a little over board.
Good talking point at a party or the coffee bar.

Sounds like a good break-in for a bl motor would be to just put some
lube on the shaft and run at low rpm's for a few minutes if any.

Oh I forgot I need to go get my motors out of the swimming pool!
Hope there done breaking in.[:@]


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