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RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: harebearva Thanks for all the help guys! OK while I'm on a roll, One more question. I'm sure there is a great reason for this but, why unplug the motor before doing this. If there isn't a battery attached to the heli, does the motor get any power? Is there a capacitor? or is there another reason? I need to move in next door to an experienced pilot and bug the fool outa him or her! Thanks again! Stevo I learned a lot of ritualistic things from here, Radd's School of Rotary Flight. http://www.dream-models.com/eco/index.html They take more time than it seems is neccesary some times but I try to treat this like I do my martial arts training ("you'll realize why I'm telling you this later in your journey.") Congrats on the heat sink mod and happy flying. Scott |
RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: Rotor13B Unplug the motor and then unscrew the motor bolts. Push the motor straight down until the heatsink slides off then remove the heatsink through the larger opening in the frame. Mod and then replace in reverse order.They say it's a clip on sink, But they are aluminum so if you distort it then it going to be loose and trying to bend it back would just make it weak or possibly crack imo. ORIGINAL: harebearva Thanks for all the help guys! OK while I'm on a roll, One more question. I'm sure there is a great reason for this but, why unplug the motor before doing this. If there isn't a battery attached to the heli, does the motor get any power? Is there a capacitor? or is there another reason? I need to move in next door to an experienced pilot and bug the fool outa him or her! Thanks again! Stevo |
RE: axe cp thread
Hi, i am using the stock radio at this time with no problems so far works real good, mine flies great, and i only paid 75.00 for it brand new!! have fun ...R/C FLYR :D
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RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: Rotor13B Unplug the motor and then unscrew the motor bolts. Push the motor straight down until the heatsink slides off then remove the heatsink through the larger opening in the frame. Mod and then replace in reverse order.They say it's a clip on sink, But they are aluminum so if you distort it then it going to be loose and trying to bend it back would just make it weak or possibly crack imo.;) IMHO Bill |
RE: axe cp thread
Nice job flying man! could hear some wind too. really good job!!
Chaseman81 |
RE: axe cp thread
Maintenance question. How often and what parts do you lube on the axe?
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RE: axe cp thread
Lube is good.....I lube everyday if I can. LOL
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RE: axe cp thread
LOL. Maybe I should specify which "AXE" I'm refering to! LOL
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RE: axe cp thread
That was just too funny. I just couldn't resist. I am also a noob so I want to here the answer too. Too funny.
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RE: axe cp thread
Lube your Balllinks and your main shaft. The swashplate slides up and down the main shaft so it should be free and slippery. Also, lube your slide block and center hub.
Ok, guys have fun with that, but please no pictures! |
RE: axe cp thread
Thanks for the infor pliotlight. I'm using 3 n 1 oil for lube. Is this acceptable or should I use something different. I'm reaonably sure K/Y is out of the question.
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RE: axe cp thread
:DHe said lube:D
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RE: axe cp thread
Here is a little tip "I think"? I just talk to a friend of mine and he said to spray
brake cleaner into the tail motor (WITH NO BATTERY HOOKED UP!) to spray out the carbon. Should give longer life to the tail motor. Seems "strange" but my other friend said to put your new brushless motor into saline to break it in. Sounds like there crazy or I need new friends! Anyone have info on these two tips? |
RE: axe cp thread
Brake cleaner will probably work OK to clean the motor if it doesn't melt the plastic, but that other tip about saline is bizarre. I've never heard of it before. Brushless motors don't need break-in.
Honestly it's hard not to bust on this one, but Acadwheel I'd really like to know your friend's logic behind that tip. |
RE: axe cp thread
We need to keep the puns out of the hub of this thread.
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RE: axe cp thread
Will the nimh battery support a hh gyro and can I install one without running a complete separation? Darn thing is wandering on me, I realise some is ground effect and noob inexperience, should I try to turn up the gain on the 3-in-1 or does it only have a certain number of positions? The pictures in the manual don't really give the process justice. I am flying(sliding across the ground) in my shop so I have plenty of room and no wind but still have not mstered hovering yet. I don't want to bring it up to waist height for fear of really breaking something if I smack the ground.
Lastly, how often do you lube contact points, before every flight every hour of flight? Thanks again in advance for the help. |
RE: axe cp thread
The HH gyro will draw more power, so you will get shorter flight times. I wouldn't adjust the 3-1 too much until you get it it the air. Try moving the trim tabs on the TX to help with hovering. Then, if it still needs adjustment, go to the 3-1 adjustment to get the trims centered on your TX.
Sorry about the puns, but I can't help how my advice is interpretted. I've only lubed mine once. You can see its still coated with 20 SAE small motor oil. (comes in a can like 3 in 1 oil) |
RE: axe cp thread
What is wrong with a few puns. It is just a little humor. Lighten up.
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RE: axe cp thread
A heading hold gyro isn't going to do anything for you until you can hold it in the air and could make the situation worse until you can. The problem is when your on the ground your giving rudder input to keep the heli tail in. As soon as it becomes airborn it wants to go to the last position that you moved your stick to. More often than not it's going to want to go side in on you and that's the last thing you need when trying to get it off the ground into a hover.
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RE: axe cp thread
Thanks rotor13b, that makes a lot of sense. I am glad that I won't have to throw more money at this thing unless I bounce it off of the ground. The side-in effect is exactly what is happening, as far as I can tell.
As far as the pun thing goes, I guess I fell like the idiot for making that one. "We need to keep the puns out of the hub of this thread",,, hub of a helicopter,,, I guess I have to keep my day job. I love makings puns I just don't do a very good job of it sometimes. thanks again for the info, I am really enjoying being a part of this forum. |
RE: axe cp thread
hey guys, I have been taking a lot of flak from an unnamed (acadwheel) about my advancing the theory that you can break-in a brushless motor using a glass of water. I thought everyone knew of this or I would have posted the links sooner. I only have time to leave one right now but will post the others that I have read in a bit, and I won't even make any puns while doing it.
http://www.rcboataholic.com/motors/motor%20breakin.htm well there ya go wheel |
RE: axe cp thread
ORIGINAL: betapilot hey guys, I have been taking a lot of flak from an unnamed (acadwheel) about my advancing the theory that you can break-in a brushless motor using a glass of water. I thought everyone knew of this or I would have posted the links sooner. I only have time to leave one right now but will post the others that I have read in a bit, and I won't even make any puns while doing it. http://www.rcboataholic.com/motors/motor%20breakin.htm well there ya go wheel |
RE: axe cp thread
I'm with Rotor. I don't see the point either. I checked out that link about water break-in. I still don't see how it pertains to BL motors. The article addresses brushes and bushings, but neither of those are used on brushless motors.
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RE: axe cp thread
I read the post too. I really don't think that I would ever try that. I just can't beleive that can work. But on a different note, I am into overclocking every part of my computer. I did an experment with liquid cooling of computer equiptment. There is a special OIL that you can emerse your motheboard and any "non moving computer parts in' i.e. nothing with fans or a CD drive or Harddrives. This really works as the OIL is non-conductive. On the other hand water is VERY conductive. Maybe I am missing something but the post said something about:
"I know you might be thinking water and electronics don't mix. Water is an insulator and although we are not dealing with pure water, the water we use has a very high resistance. The real problem with using water is corrosion, so make sure you thoroughly dry the motor when you are done". I used to work for an electronics manufacture and the new assembled components that we made were washed in industrial "dish washers". Of course this was done with no power to the components. And when they were dried they worked perfect. Go ahead and spill some water into your computer while it is on and see what happens. I know that I don't get PURE water from my tap....But hey, Isn't water mostly the same whether it is PURE of TAP water? Don't try this at home folks! |
RE: axe cp thread
OK betapilot, I did read the link and it looks like they are using brushed motors.
I think the water thing is a little over board. Good talking point at a party or the coffee bar. Sounds like a good break-in for a bl motor would be to just put some lube on the shaft and run at low rpm's for a few minutes if any. Oh I forgot I need to go get my motors out of the swimming pool! Hope there done breaking in.[:@] |
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