MYSAVAGESS

Well I think HPI needs to change the RTR from Ready to Run to Remove Thread Lock Replace. everyone should be sure to check their back plate also my .25 didnt come with all the pieces for the clutch bell I was missing the outside bearing spacer and screw
so just another thing for everyone to check
Aron

ShOzz

yep, the backplates on the 25's on the ss's were not thread locked, or it was a hit or miss kind of deal, mine backed off as well. never thought of it as i built the kit.

jrkessler

Thanks to this site I checked my backplate after the the first breakin tank. It was loose! Thanks to all for the info!

Aterlatus

Yeah, mine was too way back when.

But o' threadlock quickly sorts it out though

No biggie....


Just make sure y'all catch it before you loose the spring / pin that attaches the backplate to your conrod

jumpingbean

Sorry about my lack of knowledge, but where is the back plate ??? I have an SS... thanks

jrkessler

The backplate is located on the back of the engine. Take the pull start off and make sure the four screws on the plate under it are tight.

jumpingbean

thanks a lot... i´ll check that...

rc10_gt

on the s-25 motor where is the lsn supposed to be set?

Big Ted

Yeah I had to do the same for my Ofna Force .25.. But now she's running like a weapon. Mind you I should add that the savage is actually a paperweight at the moment, as the terra crusher is getting a fair bit of attention.. I'll start a post with a pic.

Ted

jumpingbean

Hi:
At SavageCentral they explains all the steps to follow...

Aterlatus

You could've just copied the details here for everyone

Anyone with an ss will be familiar with the dismantling of the car anyway, but all you have to do is pop out the four screws holding on the enging, remove the engine, pop off your pull/rotostart from the back of the block and then examine the backplate (the plate underneat the pull/rotostart).

You should remove the four screws in that, stick some threadlock in the holes, and then put the four screws back in tight - this plate should end up flush with your engine block, with no gap between the two.

If you find the plate is loose, you might wanna take it off completely and make sure you haven't lose the pin/spring connecting it to your conrod first. You really don't want the engine to turn over if they come loose - they'd play havoc with your innards

nitro-Al

Thanks guys, I got savage.25 coming tomorrow. The first thing I do will be to take off the roto start & check the backing plate. Is there anything else to look for? any way thanks again,I cant wait to get the mill broke in this weekend to see how it runs.

jrkessler

nitro-Al, I have not found any other problems with mine so far. You might just want to do the diff mod when you get it. I couldnt wait to take mine all apart so the mod gave me a good excuss. For some reason I like haven my truck in about 100 peices all over the table more than I like it in one piece!

Aterlatus

It's when it's in 100 pieces all over the local B<X track you should worry

Sparco

depends...

Industry

My friend didnt check his backplate on his Savage X and lost 3 of the 4 screws the whole thing almost fell off

benzzyo5

check to make sure ur gear mesh is correct

Chronic

As long as you guys are threadlocking the backplate screws, go ahead and seal the backplate with some high temp RTV sealant. Do the carb throat too. My NS.25 had a ton of airleaks and it ran like a dream after I sealed it all up.