dolsen

Uncle Sam will be sending me some tax refund money soon and am thinking about getting a savage. I have a T-maxx and have been very happy with it and am wondering if I will end up feeling like I blew $500.00 for nothing. Is it really as great as you all claim or is just a chevy vr's ford battle. I would like some honest feed back please.

airracer2004

My Feedback: (16)

Buy the savage, I have seen then run into bulldozer blades and survided with minor damage, great handling straight out of box, strong runner, don't go far from factory settings, I have a major hopped up t-maxx , ofna lx comp with trinity .21 and a ofna titan twin, I love all those , buy I want a savage just for bashing. Weak points, a-arms replace asap with alum or cnc and spur gear needs to be steel. Watch out for loose setscrews in differentials, I suggest you take apart asap and locktite them both. This is my opinion only

Frost_

My Feedback: (1)

Well, TBH, when I got mine, I didn't want a monster truck (so I thought). I wanted an ride that didn't break. I have several STs and now that I have a GT I don't many issues but the rest used to constantly break. Everytime I went out something would break, I was sick of it. I scoured the forums and this is where I ended up.

Most of the mods I've done to the truck outside of those concerned with speed were just done because I am used to throwing money at a truck. I had no need for the upper and lower aluminum arms, I just wanted them. ...And let's face it they look tough [8D]. But after 3 engines and insane abuse, the stock arms never broke. The truck is now on engine number 4 and who-knows-how-many total gallons.

Everyone here will tell you that if you get one to get the new SS 4.6, and they would be right. It's LOTS more changes than just motor (and it's alot of motor too). If you are buying a Savage GET THE NEW SS.

You'll be hard-pressed to find better shocks than stock. An upside to this is that a new set can be had off of E BA Y for under 22 bucks shipped if you have a bit of patience. New & Shiny TVP chas. plates and rollbar for the same price. A new battery-box can be had for less than 8 bucks shipped. The cost and availability of the items that make old look new sure is nice.

The truck has been incredibly tough.

ed260z

Although the Savvy was not meant for balls to the wall speed, you can still make them go fast. But the real reason most of love this truck is simple. BASHING BASHING BASHING I don't think that there is an other truck on the market that can take the abuse that this thing will take. And lets face it the longer it's trashing up the neighbors yard, the happier we are.[8D] I hate down time.

Frost_

My Feedback: (1)

I already told you about my arm experiences above... the stock units are nearly impossible to destroy.

Once you get your mesh right, your spurs will last. I had one last about 3.5 gallons and average 2. 5 on them. Some folks will tell you that the steel spur should be avoided as you'd rather strip that $3.95 spur than tear up something in the tranny. I may go steel just to see... besides... the three-speed is coming out soon and I'll need a reason to get it.

Everyone warns to do the 4-gear spider mod (no need on the new 4.6SS) and tell other diff horror tales. My experience is quite different. My truck saw 5 gallons or so with a 21, 5-7 gallons with a Force25, 2-3 gallons with a Team Infinity 27 (Fantom), and now over 2 with an SH28. That's 14-17 gallons of 20 to 30% race fuel on STOCK DIFFS that are still SMOOTH. I built a beefy set for on-hand replacements a WHILE ago but have never needed them. The SH is out of the truck for porting and polishing and a Collari .30 should end up in the truck by the end of next week if Werks is still with the release date.

This truck has been jumped over and over again, it doesn't send me home early. I was never part of the HPI/Traxxas rivalry, I just got it because I was tired of working on STs.



Sorry for being so long winded tonight. I have had a few drinks and the GF has gone to sleep on me...

rscharp

The real reason people warn of diff failure is the quality of the parts has gone down hill since the release of the 21 savage. Your diffs, I'm assuming, are left overs from the 21RTR. (I'm guessing this because you mention using the 21BB, great engine BTW). The 25SS and the 25RTR are definately made of different quality construction than the 21RTR. If you have ever had the diffs from each truck laid down open side by side to the others, you would see the 21 has MACHINED gears inside, while the 25rtr and 25SS have cast or pot metal gears. HPI has changed the way they build these diffs.

So yes, if you have a 21rtr, you do not NEED to do the spyder gear mod, but if you have the 25rtr or 25SS, you will need to do the mod.

Just thought I would clear that up for the people out there with the 25rtr and 25SS.

Frost_

My Feedback: (1)

Sweet. I have read in the past that the 21 diffs were different, but everytime I asked what was different, people did not know. Outside of the shock towers, they are about the ONLY carry-overs from the original 21...

rscharp

Keep them oiled and clean and those diffs will last forever. I myself bought a 21rtr roller just to get the better diffs for my SS. After I made both trucks raceable, the SS's diffs failed after 2 gallons, even with the spyder mod. The 21rtr diffs I didnt bother putting the extra gears into and they have just over 8 gallons on them...

Makes you wonder why they stopped machining them, doesnt it?

cardriverx

you know whats funny, my friend has 2 maxxes, and he was tired of them breakin, so he was gonna sell them for a revo. once he saw my savy tho he changed his mind on the spot, he just had to have a savy! so now hes sellin them both to get money to get a savy! i have put my savy threw hell and back, and the only things ive broke is ive chiped one of the diff gears, and stripped the servo gears. just a week agao i was runnin my truck on pavement jumpin it off of a cheap plastic ramp. and i was goin WOT and hit the ramp 2 wheels on 2 wheels off [X(] it flew 4 feet in the air tumblin this way and that and landed smak on the roof! i thought i had to have broke it! but the only thing that happened is one of the tie rods that changes the toe on the rear right tire poped off, which was just poped back on, and i bent the roll bar which was easly fixed with a hammer [sm=devious.gif]. now for the jump....i took a huge chunck of plastic out of the side of it!![sm=devious.gif] there was more damage on the ramp then on the truck! I was so happy, just glued the ramp back together. the savy is just amazing when it comes to durability, it is super tuff out of the box where as you have to put in money into other trucks to make them as strong as a savy!

dolsen

Can you tell me what is stronger on the Savage than the Maxx. I put RPM A-arms on my Maxx this fall and since havent broken anything. From what I have gotten out of this forum is that the Savage seems to be hard on drive train componets but not the suspension. My Maxx has been the other way around(two broken A-arms and a shock cap). Is this fair statement?

CR500rider

IMO tha tmaxx is junk...the bulkheads are junk, the chassis braces are junk, the a-arms are junk, the remote is goofy looking and uncomfortable, the ez-start is weak and heavy, all the screws and hinge pins the reverse is junk....i kept getting mine stuck in either forward or reverse and would not switch back even after i turned the idle way down and this happened on both of the t-maxxes ive owned so i know its not an isolated incident......you may ask why i owned 2 t-maxxes if i thought they were such junk and it is because i bought the first one used and just thought i bought a lemon so i sold it and bought a new one but had the same exact problems. I could not drive those things without breaking them and i wasnt even driving them hard. even when i would take small jumps i would break bulkheads and chassis braces unless i landed perfectly, and landing perfectly doesnt allways happen as we all know! if i spend 400 bones on a toy it had better hold together and take a little abuse! actually the only good thing about a t-maxx is the engine and even that isnt all that great! i learned my lesson the hard way, i should have bought my savage the first time like my brother did. i have had my savage now for over a year and have put it through insane abuse....massive jumps, concrete walls, curbs, trees etc. after 9 gallons of such abuse all i have broken was 2 a-arms, one front bulkhead and maybe 4 spur gears ...oh and 3 bodies so far lol

ed260z

IMO the only good thing about the Maxx And Revo is the EZ-start. But your right about everything else, it is GARBAGE.

lildebi

the savage is the cats ass.. i have four of them.. and 1 ek-4 which is like a t-max but with a .70 motor the savy is built to really take a beating and survive ..where as the tmax will go to peices the same with my ek4 you wont be sorry for getting a savy i bet you will sell that tmax and never even miss it. just remember to do the mods that are needed like the spider mod upgrade the servos to metal gear seal the engine with silocone put in a good set of clutches and go bashing

neb

I own a revo and a savage, i think the revo is better as its actually been alot more reliable. The savage couldnt finish any races as the slipper melted the diff gears and cases went after 11 tanks and rod ends popped off, it was on a race track designed for buggies so the jumps werent massive. I was really disappointed. But i will be racing again with a few more hop-ups and i hope it will actually be able to finish a race day. I have had to spend quite a lot of money on it to get it reliable.But it might just be down to luck, which i obviously dont have with the savage

Savage_Dias

I've played with a Maxx & I own a Revo. They're made by the same company but they in no way belong in the same class. Maxxes are good trucks as long as you don't go crazy with them. They have too much power for the components to handle. Revos are built tougher & have way better handling characteristics. So far mine has been a lot tougher than I imagined it would be. I'm looking forward to really putting it through it's paces when winter is over.

Savages stink because they are the $#!t !! I have a .21 that I bought new & I'd do it all over again. A lot of people say they need the diff mod & they have to have a high torque servo but they aren't necessary. Savages aren't like LSTs that need to be rebuilt before they can make it through break in. They are tough out of the box & don't need upgrades unless you're being picky. If I knew someone that was getting ready to buy a Savage & they felt like they just had to buy something I'd recommend a Motor Saver. They open the engine up a lot compared to the stock filter. Go with a Savage. You won't regret it.

Pinolelst

Still obsessing I see

pineywoodsmgt

i own a MGT and a friend has a Savage
in a drag race i can take him with no problem
clean up is way harder on a Savage
but for reliability you just can't beat a Savage,we have beat the snot out of his truck and haven't broken anything yet,can't say the same for my MGT.
if you want to bash the i say go for the Savage.

ed260z

You shouldn't be having those problems, unless something is loose, or broken, that you haven't realized yet.
IMO you should pull out the instructions, tear down the truck, and rebuild it. Inspecting everything as you go. I'm sure you'll find that there was something else causing your problems, not just bad luck.[8D]

KSIR

Wow you guys made me feel quite happy that I bought the savage.
The only upgrades so far have been a THS pipe & Truckzilla sport conversion *Big Smile*
Its the 25SS I want to put some O-rings in the shocks to lower it just slightly and get a new hi-tq Steering servo, Been using a 9402 and it work's ok but I might get 9.5 kg servo up front, need a half decent throttle servo. I have modded the throttle slightly and don't need the return spring eh might have to post pic's. The standard set up works but could be re-thought a little bit (fossilised) If you asked me. Still got standard diffs.
It needs an adjustable front diff like a LSD or locker. Getting the power to the wheel on the ground will make this thing handle corners way better
Ideally an adjustable ball diff would be way cool I reckon. Just a few thoughts the Savage I got more but I will save some for later.

Frost_

My Feedback: (1)

DO the 4-gear mod, seal the diff..... use HEAVY fluid up front if this is what you are looking for. 100K to begin with, that will REALLY help keep the power to that wheel on the ground. I know of folks going insanely high in the front..... 2x or more heavier than I suggested.

KSIR

Hey Thanks Frost
So who knows of tough aluminum threaded shocks for the savage apart from HPI ones ($111.99) for 8 or Hot Bodies.
Are there any other options out there that won't bust this budget.

Well I was reasembling my standard shocks to find that they were leaking oil not from the cap and not from the shaft but they spat oil from a pin hole in the body exactly where you break the body away from the tree. Cutting would probably help and leave a little part of the tree on the body. 2 of my shock bodies leak when I first got the Savage together I noticed oil on the side of the shock body just wiped it up and didnt think anything of it but they eneded up with pin holes it was prolly my fault for breaking the bodies off the trees but so far only 2 have got the problem. I got 2 more shocks to refill....