crankshaft

I just got done a lot of extensive work in the crank, block, sleeve, and piston to improve flow in my .25. after 3 days of work i couldn't wait to see how it ran. then when I went to start it the switch burnt out on the rotostarter. I stuck an extra switch in it that I had lying around only to find the motor was burnt up. this is the second one i have had this happen to. Is it something I am doing wrong or has anybody else had problems with it because I am ready to just buy a pullstart after this.

Rep99099

man, get a pull start, i ditched the roto becuz of the same problem.
My truck will start with 1 or 2 pulls.

gemiller

my guess is you hold the button in too long.. ive had my savage for more than a year and still on the stock rotostart and been through 2 motors already... only 5 seconds the first time and 2 every other.

crankshaft

glad im not the only one. I am definetly getting a pullstart- knowing it works is worth the effort of pulling the string. and I never held the rotostarter on for a long time because the motor would get hot. It just didnt have the torque to turn over that engine with as much compression as it has and it melted the wires.

Rep99099

You can chuck the roto-start shaft in a drill and do it that way.
Make sure teh drill is in reverse.

gasoline hpi

the only problem with that is the drill has to much torque. if the engine gets flooded you might not be able to tell and you could end up bending a rod if you keep cranking it.

flange

most drills have a torque limiter

cardriverx

yea, but drills dont crank over the motor fast enough because the drills are geared for toque

Rep99099

I used a Miluwakee 18v drill and chucked it down to 3 or 4, and it would fire right up.

gasoline hpi

I use a drill that only turns 300 rpm and mine will start up no problem. as for bending a rod you would probably break the one way bearing before you put enough torque to the crank to do any damage.