EXA

grrrrr i've had my savage running about 3 times and now it just won't start. I've only just started to lean the fuel off and now i can't even get it started. 20 mins with the roto and still nothing. Not even a splutter. ***

help please!

Jacob

Bash-m-up

My Feedback: (7)

Number of things. No, spudder? Is your one way bearing good or does the roto just spin? If your roto is just spinning and your engine isnt turning over at all then your one way or roto start gearing inside your backplate is bad. If your engine is turning over when you go to start it but it just won't start then you may just have a bad glow plug or low glow ignitor. Helpful hint, don't just press and hold the roto starter down til the engine starts, it should be used as though it's a electric pull starter, short quick bumps, with each press of the button the engine should only turn over about 3-4 times. By doing this it will help prolong your one ways life in the event of hydro lock of the engine and save you some money too. Let us know if any of these help you out.

EXA

splutter**** lol

yeah i don't hold it down. 5 seconds max. I took the glow plug out and put it in the ignitor and it started sizzling and went red so thats working..... grrrr annoying! i want to use it!

mase_00_7

If it was sizzling then you probably have a lot of fuel on it, and are thus flooding the engine.

Glowplug out, turn the engine over for a little while, glowplug back in, try to start.

RCDadChicago

My Feedback: (34)

Assuming its not your roto-start or one way bearing, does it seem to have alot of compression (resistance before turning a complete revolution)? I'm assuming you know what a glow plug is, have you taken it out and checked to see if it glows red?

If all the fuel lines are connected, put a little fuel in, plug the exhaust and just bump the roto-start, see if fuel goes from the tank - up through the fuel line - to the carburetor.

Do all your electronics work, will the wheels turn and throttle move correctly when you try them?

If it has compression, a good glow plug, and can pull fuel you can start it. You should probably set the carburetor high speed needle and low speed needle to factory specs first. Basically you put fuel in, without the glow plug ignitor cover the exhaust exit, and bump the roto-start once or twice just to get fuel to the carb, turn on all your electronics so you can control the truck if it does start, then hook up your glow plug ignitor and see if it will start.

This is really basic...

Just remember, a nitro needs just a few things to start; compression, a good glow plug, and fuel. When it does not start the first thing to check is the glow plug, they have a tendency to go out without notice. If that's good, check to make sure fuel is being pulled from the tank to the carb, if not than you have an air leak somewhere. If both of those are good make sure the engine is not worn out with little to no compression. If all three are good it may be that you allowed too much fuel to enter the carb when you primed it. Take off the glow plug and see if the engine is full of fuel, you may have to put a paper towel down by the opening and turn the engine over some to throw excess fuel out. If all four are good and it still won't start then it may be too cold. Many nitros hate to start unless they are warm. Get a blow dryer and heat the engine up good and hot!

If the glow plug is good, getting fuel, lots of compression, it's not flooded, and the engine is nice and warm that thing should fire up with no problem.

EXA

lol yeah i do know what a glow plug is! and ofcourse it has compression! I knew i should have posted in the threat (not a newbi) i also have a Tg10 with an OS.15 in it.... that thing boots!

anyway i think i figures out what the problem was. After getting very angry i decided well maybe i should lean it up a little.. when i did that it started fairly quickly. I think factory settings are just way to rich, it was having trouble ideling on factory setting when i did eventually get it start the first few times and if i touched the throttle it'd stall.

It still stalls at times but still i can get it to move now. How quick should it start with roto start?

Jacob

EXA

well tried to start it today and all i got was a flat roto starter. This s-25 is a piece of ****. There are no leaks, i'm sure compression would be high and glow plug is fine.

How quick should it start with the roto start?

Jacob

Stablock

It should start with a roto start with a few blips. You posted earlier that you tried for 20 minutes with the roto start so try not to be surprised that the battery is flat. I'll tell you what, I'll give you $10 for you Savage. Seeing that it's a piece and all.

EXA

hahaha!

well now another problem, or maybe the problem which i didn't spot before. Once i prime the fuel line and then try to start it bubbles start to come back through the fuel line. Then all of a sudden there is no fuel in the line.

I've read that the ribbed pipe is a piece of sh*it when it comes to keeping fuel pressure up... true?

Stablock

Did the tank run out of fuel?[sm=bananahead.gif]

Sound like you have a pretty big air leak somewhere. Drain the fuel and pull the tank. Blow in the fuel line with the pressure line pinched to pressurize the tank and submerge the tank in water. Watch for bubbles.

EXA

at the rate at which the fuel flows out of the line it'd have to be a big leak, and if i turn the engine over while covereing the exhaust there are no leaks and the pressure builds up and then it sounds as if a blow of valve opens and fuel kinda spurts out the carby

Bash-m-up

My Feedback: (7)

I have the ribbed pipe and it's been great not a problem with pressure. It does sound as though you have a leak somewhere if the fuel is peddling backwards after you prime it. I know the tank is suseptible to cracking, check it like the previous post stated, second, try sealing off all your leak prone areas with an O-2sensor safe and aluminum safe RTV sealant. Those prone areas being the backplate and the base of your carb. Also try replacing you fuel line, the smallest of holes will kill these engines in no time flat. If you take the time to do all this, I would almost guarantee that you will have it up and running in top shape, with a long life ahead. An ounce of prevention goes a long way.

RCDadChicago

My Feedback: (34)

This is going to sound weird but I had that same problem (air bubbles forcing fuel back into the tank) with an NTC3. It happened right after I took the restrictor out of the carb.

EXA

when you sack back plate. do you mean where the roto start thing attaches to the engine? also it's all new equip so i dunno if there would be cracks anywhere. burrr this is so annoying.

with the roto start, if it's running real rich should it in theory still start pretty much straight away? maybe i'm just running it way too rich. Another thing, my fuel line runs along touching the engine. can the fuel be too hot?

edit: just reading above on some posts someone said heat it up with a hair drying, i was thinking about doing that because once the engine has started it's really easy to start. so maybe it just hates being cold

Bash-m-up

My Feedback: (7)

When you seal the backplate you will want to seal it where the engine block meets the plate that the roto start mounts to, not the roto start backplate itself.

EXA

oh, well i haven't touched the back plate so i don't know why it would be leaking!

guitar

My Feedback: (-2)

IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANY HAVE ANY HOLES IN YOUR FUEL TUBING AND AFTER YOU FUEL PRESS DOWN ON YOUR FUEL TANK LID AND MAKE SURE YOUR ORING SEATS ON YOUR FUEL TANK AND THERE IS NO AIR LEAKS THEN TRY NOT PRIMEING THE ENGINE .THEN TRY THE ROTO START MORE THAN LIKELY YOU WILL HAVE TO GO MORE THAN 5 SECONDS OR JUST PRIME IT ENOUGHT TO GET THE FUEL WITHIN 3 TO 4 INCHES FROM THE CARB THEN GO WITH THE ROTOSTART AND IF AND IF THE FUEL DOES NOT DRAW TOWARDS THE CARB THAT IS A SURE SIGN THAT YOU ARE LEAN ON THE LOW END. AS LONG AS THERE IS NO FUEL LINE LEAKS AND EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PRESSURISED TANK THERE IS SUCKSION AT 3 TO 4 INCHES CAUSED BY CRANKSHAFT SPINNING DRAWING IN FUEL IF THE AIR FUEL MIXTURE IS NOT TO LEAN . JOHN

EXA

hmm i think it might be the fuel, my friend has a new savage and his started pretty much straight away. I think it could be the fuel i'm using. It's quite old. Could that cause irraversable damage?

RCDadChicago

My Feedback: (34)

I've never experienced it but I have heard that old fuel can be a major factor.

EXA

was still a ***** to start with new fuel, but nowhere near as bad as with the old stuff. i think some might have just been still in the lines or cabie or something. then it stoped and my roto starter went flat!

RCDadChicago

My Feedback: (34)

I've had RC's in the past that seemed ok but the engines had more run time on them than I knew, they were always difficult to get started. I was amazed when I got my new 4.6 kit how easily it fired right up.

podge_87

how old is your fuel, if it has gone discoloured or thicker then bin it and buy some fresh, also check for holes in the fuel line which comes from the exhaust to the engine. dont give me cr4p if u have already tryed these things only trying to help

EXA

checked all the fuel lines

heres the update. With the new fuel it wants to start. It'll fire but it won't physically run by its self. It'll eventually start but it takes ages. everythings at or close to factory settings. if i give it throttle a little it'll slowly go but if i give it a little more i'll just shut down and then be a real coon to start again

i'm so fed up. My friend has a new one the same and it starts rigth away

gerwen

Reset all your carb settings back to what it says in the manual. I had a very hard starting engine, and it turned out the lsn was way too lean.

EXA

alright cheers