SavMT

Just tried starting my brand new Savage 25 LE and it wont start. The glow plug is good, the ignitor is good, fuel is getting in because the glow plug gets wet but it still just wont start. Any ideas? I'm obviously new to Nitro RC cars and I'm just trying to start it to perform the break in procedure but i'm having no luck. Using the roto start it makes smoke come out the exhaust just for a second then it starts clacking and I stop the roto. I dont know what else to try... Any help would be appreciated.

badboy2

My Feedback: (13)

try loosening ur plug when u start the engine its prolly flooded..make sure ur igniter is fully charged and sometimes even the glow plug looks ok u may want to try a new plug just to be sure..

SavMT

If I press the throttle a tiny bit the wheels spin, but it wont start or idle. I'm afraid somethings broken.

I loosend the plug 1 turn from the very start, the engine isnt flooded as far as I know. Igniter is using brand new batteries and I've tested it on a spare plug i have here and it works as the plug went orange... Im seriously paranoid somethings broken, and no hobby shops are open until next year. Why isnt it starting? I took the hose off the exhaust and blew into it so fuel is getting to the carb and also because the glow plug is wet.

SavMT

I tested the original plug out of the motor with the igniter and it went orange, it looks ok. I am putting in an OS8 plug to test it anyway, but the original plug seems to be fine aswell.

dst747

had the same problem with my LE. so i heated the engine with ahairdryer, intentionally d
flooded the engine, then un flooded it. put the glo-plug back and as i used the rotostart, i varied the throttle until it caught, then i took it back down to a steady idle for the static break in.

SavMT

Yeah I just cant get it to idle at all, I've warmed the motor up good with hairdryer already, I've adjusted the throttle trim and the HSN but it still seems like the motor isnt getting enough fuel. I've blown into the hose off the exhaust to make sure the carb has fuel. The fuel line on the tank is going down some so there's "some" fuel getting in but not enough it seems cuz it's still not firing up. The engine turns over and tries to fire up but just wont. I've tried 2 different glow plugs also so it's not that, and the ignitor tested good.

Im just running out of things to check, I know little to nothing about RC Nitro cars so this is very frustrating for me. My roto start is dead right now so that's charging... Gives you an idea how long I been trying to start it up! I just dont know why it wont take and start idling for the break in process...

SavMT

dst747, did you take off the filter to open the carb? The idiots at HPI supply the same manual for the normal version as they do for the Limited Edition and they're not the same exactly, the filter is different and filter doesnt come off easily because of the cable tie. If you removed this to open the carb how did you take off that cable tie? If you didn't do this then what's the manual on about?

Neil E

SavMT, if you have not gotten your Savage started yet, I would like to offer a couple of suggestions. Loosening the glow plug 1 turn is way to much. You just have to break the seal on the washer about 1/8 of a turn. You stated that you adjusted the throttle trim, but did not say adjusted to what. Adjust your throttle trim until you see the slide on the carburetor move. Now try to start. If it fails to start open the slide a little more with the trim and restart. Big bocks like to have the slide open more when starting. I do this almost every-time I start my big blocks. Make sure to tighten the glow plug once it is running.

I hope this helped. Please let us know

-SomeGuy-

Im not sure but i had problems starting an engine once and it turned out that the cooling head was loose and wasnt getting propper compression, check those screws and make sure your not flooded because most of the time i cant start its for that reason.

SavMT

Ok I think i might have had the glow plug too lose, also I need to check if the carbs open or not. If the carb isn't open properly I really have no idea why HPI would goto all the trouble of putting a cable tie on the air filter hose if I have to cut it off again to break it in. I checked all the other hoses and they appear to be on good, I think it may have just been a loose glow plug or the carbs not open but being that the manual doesn't really apply 100% to the LE I dont really know.

dst747

SavMT i realised, and cut the tie off, and put one of my own on afterwards. i seem 2 have a lifetimes supply of them so is quite easy.

SavMT

So you had to open your carb out of the box?

dst747

i did, but didnt find it worked. I actually veried the throttle as i ran the roto-start until it caught (somewhere around half throttle) anfd then i took it back to idel and let it break in. Has got so much easier to start after the first tank.

SavMT

When you tried to start for the first time did you have the reciever off? The manual is confusing, I figured it would have to be on for it to start but the throttle trim wont be sent to the truck then. The manual says "Make sure reciever switch is off, then manually turn the throttle servo by hand until the carb is open 1/4 of the way" then it goes to the next step about using glow plug and roto start and doesn't make any mention of turning the rx back on... Confused.

SavMT

Finally got it started but I cant get the wheels to quit moving when it's idling. When I adjust the throttle servo it wont idle low enough to stop the wheels turning, it just cuts out and makes a sound like a backfire. I haved the HSN set at 4.5 turns out, but it still wont throttle low enough to stop the wheels from moving without dying. What do I have to adjust to get it to idle properly without spinning the wheels?

alvinl

If you don't have the truck broke in yet, I wouldn't worry about the wheels always turning. Just plop it down and start the breakin. Once you get 3 or 4 tanks through it, you idle will start to change anyway and you can idle it down then.

SavMT

Havent even run the first tank thru yet, first time i got it fired up but manual says wheels should not be moving at all.. I richend the HSN well past 4.5 turns and it's not doing anything! Wheels still moving...

the dog

you shouldnt have needed to move the hsn at all. i would make sure that all needles are at factory settings. my hsn was way outta adjustment when i put mine together. dont be like me an get impatient and break it whatever you do. id reset the hsn and start at square one again. wish i could be more help.

the dog

by the way, i have my hsn out 4 turns but mine has 4 gallons through it and its about -20F here. so that tells you you should be no where near 4 turns out on the hsn. and ive buuilt a shroud for the motor to keep heat in.

Chronic

Use their method of opening the throttle by hand with the radio off. You don't need it if you're going to idle the first two tanks through it. Don't worry about the tires turning or propping it up so they aren't on the ground, just sit it on the ground. Let it warm up and then idle it down as much as you can.
I've got almost a gallon through it and I have to turn the trim up all the way to start it every time. That's common. Mine seems very cold natured and doesn't want to stay running until it gets up over about 210 degrees.

dst747

with the wheels spinning, leave it for the break in, and then when you have tuned it, there is an part in the manual thaat says something about an idle screw, which you set to stop the wheels spinning, but leave that until your savvy is tuned. you dont need the radio on until you have run two tanks through it at st atic breakin