MikeVi

Just got my new X 4.6. Were trying to start it off on a box to do the break in and it wont start. We meshed the gears, filled the tank, and primed it. The roto spins and we can hear it putting but it wont start. What could be the problem(s)?

BudBud

Probably too rich to run, trying opening the throttle about a 1/4 and hang the tires in the air so there is no drive train kick back when it does start. They come really, painfully, rich. Heating the head with a heat gun or blow dryer will help as well, the pinch will be less and the head will have some heat to help starting combustion. BB

MikeVi

Too rich? So do I lean out the LSN? Which way is the leaner and richer? Sorry very new and overly excited to pay attention.

EARRNHARDT3

My New 4.6 RTR was a real pain to get started the first time also. I heated the head with a hair dryer and leaned it out a bit and i changed fuel from Traxxas 20% to O'Donells 20% race. I think the fuel helped me the most because as i was trying to starte it at first with the Traxxas fuel i had oil running out the pipe.
So good luck and it will start easier each tank you run in it.
E3

EARRNHARDT3

lean high speed needle 1/4 turn

MTboy

same thing here... Just lean the hsn out and it will start to fire..

BudBud

Sorry I was slow to get back, the HSN 1/4 to 1/2 even will bring the low speed with it. BB

MikeVi

Alright, so I did the break in, then decided to loctite everything. So I took two of the engine mount screws out, the easily accessible ones, and did those. Then I went for the hidden ones and they were tough to unscrew. I got one and realized it had already been loctite'd. So I cleaned it off and re-did it. Didnt bother with the other. The other screws around the body seemed to have strong resistance to unscrewing so I figured they were loc'd too. Any input if thats how they ship them now? I may just do a few bash sessions and make sure they're still tough to undo. Trucks running strong. Another Savage wreaking havoc.

MikeVi

Alright, I've been screwing with this thing for an hour and 1/2 now and I cant get it to start. I set the needles back to flush, tried. Nothing. Set the HSN a little lean, nothing. The only success I had was right after I unflooded the engine, it would start for a split second, then either stall or when I lightly hit the throttle, it would die. What is wrong here? Yesterday it took me forever to get it started, but once it did, it started everytime easily.

Also, the rotostart seems to lock up a bit and I have to fiddle with it to get it to finally turn the crank.

I JUST WANT TO GET THIS THING BASHING!!

one-syk

dude...read the manual.



i didnt have to touch my carb to start mine.

your going to cause damage by trying to rush through everything.

new rotostarts are packed with grease, after a while they break in and spin all the grease off, then they spin faster.

replace your glow plug, charge your rotostart battery, and try again.

first thing i did on mine was replace the HPI glow plug with an O.S. #8 plug, after a while my rotostart would die due to the new battery, and all the grease in the rotostart not allowing it to spin fast enough.

then i purchased a pullstart and all is way better.

MikeVi

I've read everything. I've set the needles to different specs. Primed the carb. Cleared the lines of bubbles. Unflooded it a lot. I got it working fine yesterday and it ran nice. Now it starts, I get the ignitor and roto off and it either stalls or when I tap the thottle, it dies.

one-syk

let it warm up with the ignitor on for a minute, dont touch the throttle right away...its not tuned.(your killing it with fuel by touching the throttle, it opens the carb, and allows alot more fuel in).... open your throttle trim to get the idle high if you have to, until its warm.

dont get all of the air bubbles out of the line, thats why it flood's.

when you prime the engine, prime it until the fuel touches the carb...nothing more....dont worry about the air bubbles.

the LSN and idle adjustments should be left alone, you only need to lean out the HSN (the big gold one)

MikeVi

Where should my throttle trim be at when driving? Cause I think I have it gunned right now, so if I turn it down, what should I turn up to make up for it?

one-syk

i always set my throttle trim at neutral when tuning, then turn it up if i need to high idle, or open the carb a little when starting.

turning the knob right open's the carb, left closes it....leave it in the middle when tuning, turn it full right when real rich and trying to start the car

one-syk

until the engine is tuned, leave the trim all the way up (right)...it will help the engine idle higher, and allow it to warm up faster....it will also slightly engage the clutch and the truck will want to roll....thats fine.

put the truck up on somthing so the wheels are off the ground until it warms up, once its warmed up...put it on the ground, let the high idle drive the truck, and try slowly applying throttle to get the truck up to some kind of operating temperature....do that for about half a tank, than add more fuel, and begin leaning it out until it feels good.

i usually make a HSN adjustment, drive the truck, and then stop it near me for about 10-15 second's to let it idle, and load up...then i floor it 3/4-full throttle to see how the truck respond's to the adjustment's.

youll figure it out....but the only needle you need to worry about is the HSN, the LSN is pretty well set from the factory to allow the truck to start easily.

MikeVi

I actually just tested my glow plug. When I attach it, it lets out a little puff of smoke, probably burning off the excess fuel, but it doesnt glow. Does that mean its dead? The coil is the nuetral color.

PS: what kind of plug should I get. It says R5 but my friend recommended 8's.

one-syk

use O.S. #8's

the stock HPI plug is garbage.

and yes yours is dead, when you attach it to the ignitor, it should burn red hot....you will see the neon red glow.

i would pickup a bunch of extra glow plug's...during tuning you may go through 2-3 of them, and its always good to have spare's.

one-syk

you should checkout hpisavageforum.com

there is a ton of good info on there that can help you.

MikeVi

I just went and picked up some O'Donnells glow plugs. Still doing the same thing though. Just wont start. I have everything at factory with the trim on full. Not even getting exhaust out or anything.

one-syk

is your ignitor charged/have a good battery?

mess with the trim, try starting it at neutral trim....keep trying different thing's.

try one thing at a time though, if you change to many thing's at once, you wont know whats doing what.

set the HSN to flush, then turn it in about 1/2 turn

MikeVi

OK, so I messed with the DO NOT TOUCH! LSN and leaned it out and got it running. But I just had a quick question about rotostart. We have the same settings but the roto just doesnt turn. Like the crank wont turn. Is that normal, if so, how do you prevent that?

MikeVi

Alright, just want to say, after a grueling morning and a lot of hair pulled... The Savage is running beautifully. We tuned it up and it is running very VERY strong. Already put the order in for a new body :-D. Went a little crazy and the flimsy stock one is falling apart on the first day. Also, burned through the plastic spur gear. Got the RRP metal spur and bell. Its unbelievable. My buddies going to be getting one now soon. Its just too hard to hand that trigger over. Thanks Syk and Bud. You guys know you're sh*t.

one-syk

RR steel spur gear's are awesome!

3-172IN MTN

During tuning the Roto Start is going to lock up do to flooding. Once you start tuning the engine it will spin more freely.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

and when ever you're starting it, and it locks up pull the plug, and spin your flywheel so the pistons at the botom of it's stroke way better for your engine, CAUTION engine and pipe may be VERY hot, i've touched both and almost got burned, my dad wasn't so lucky... grabed the pipe after about 15-20 min of running...

the lug