Super Mud

My Feedback: (1)

Been lately having running problems with my Savage SS. Motor starts up fine and everything but I'm having problems with throttle bogging at 1/4 throttle. I just reset the tuning and I had to turn 5 turns from preset (2.5 turns lean max or something in manual) to get it in the range but still bogs just gets better low end. Low speed is set right too. The tuning has pretty much been all over the place.

nitrofreak6071208

so you leaned out you high speed all the way and then turned it back 2.5 turns richer? if not u should, also for the bogging is it all the time or only when u get to half tank of fule because if thats the case u might need more presser in the fule tank

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

some how my K4.6 got soo outa tune, and i got better speed @1/8 gas than 1/4, cuz it was that rich on the top. but i just kept leaning it out up top and now it runs fine but u should always set your top before your lsn because i had to richen my LSN as i leaned my top...
it took like 1-2 turns, wasn't really counting but it took a while to get it happy, but spend some time with it...

the lug

Midget

Have a Watch of this video - [link=http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg[/link]

BudBud

All of these K28 and K36 along with their cousins, the Axial 28 and 32... and their variations, have a horrible carburetor problem.



If you look at the left engine, there is a large screw head in the end of the carburetor. That screw head is described as a mid range setting, what it actually is though, is a seat for the low needle. They are only secured by two small orings and when they get damaged or tired, the seat turns instead of the needle. You can adjust the low mixyure all you want, the amount of fuel does not change, just the timing.

I like to remove that screw, check the orings, put a small dab of Teflon paste on the threads and put it back together, as the screw head enters the carburetor, smear a dab of RTV sealer on the side of the screw head and run it in flush. Now I wipe the excess off of the outside.

I post this all the time and recommend that everybody do it on their new engines. New mid range seats have been known to vibrate out, if the orings are bad from the factory, as I have experienced myself, that seat will turn when new. Nothing like having to wait for a few days for a part to come in.

If you do not have this problem... then the tuning video is a great place to start. Glen

Super Mud

My Feedback: (1)

I noticed it seemed like a low speed problem. I wasn't getting any change in the low speed adjustment so my mid range needle might be out of place or whatever BudBud said. For a couple tries of running my truck lately the glow plug actually wasn't even in the head right (crossed threaded part way in the hole, I reinserted the glow plug in the correct position and it didn't even make a difference. I thought I fixed my peformance problem and it did nothing!

BudBud

Take a small screwdriver and try that screw staring right at you on the left engine. If it turns freely, you need to fix it. They suck air through there and tuning is impossible if that seat is not right. It should take some force to turn it, if not....

SAVAGEJIM

I too have had problems with my K4.6 engines. For the middle "needle" coming out, I resorted to buying an oversized o-ring and screwing it into the carb. That pretty mich took care of that needle from falling out again.

The Kingstar engines can be finicky, bt once you figure them ut, they are very straight forward. However, since they are straight forward engiens, thi perfomance is lacking since they have reallytame timing profiles. Virtually all aftermarkey .28 engine will spank teh Nitrostar/Kingstar engines, even some of the cheaply made chinese engines.