etopsflight

Savage Fans

Today started to go over my brand new Savage XL before running her for the first time.

As suggested by some, I am stripping down the engine to clean the innards before running it.

A question - I am trying to remove the carburettor but it will not budge after the lock pin has been removed. I've given the carb some gentle taps with a screwdriver handle to loosen it up. I have twisted and pulled quite hard but the carb does not want to budge. Do I need to take the two tapered bushings out too. Those two do not want to budge either. I have used a allen key as a drift to try and knock them out but they are stuck good.

Any tips or experience that you can share?

Cheers

Etops

p.s. - those assembly people in the factory love to screw those screws in tight - those header screws were quite difficult to remove!

wolfie1

do not remove it! when you pull the carb out of a 5.9 it cuts the bottom sealing ring (so you need a spare without it no running), i have never heard of taking a brand new engine apart to clean it before its first use, just make sure the pins which hold the drive shafts in are loctited then your good to go

etopsflight

wolfie1

thanks for the reply

there are some how like to flush the engine out becoz there may be fine swarf or debris left behind after the engine manufacture process.

i have report that i have damaged the thread of the lock pin and/or threaded bush - b*gger!

need to find and 3.0 mm tap and die set now!

you live and you learn.......

cheers

etops

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

to get my carb clamps out i put in the stock screw about full thru then i pried it out with some pliers... it came out but it did take a good bit of force for the other one i just tapped it out....

the lug

dapro

Its a good precaution to flush and seal a new motor, I do this with ever new motor. You get a chance to make sure it is done properly, and everything is loctited down.

I use a soldering iron or heat gun to heat each screw before removing, this melts any loctite.

Also make sure the hex wrench you are using has a good tip on it, most quality drivers on the market are long enough to let you grind them down when the start to round off.

etopsflight

I tried a 3.0 x 0.5 mm tap and managed to break the hard and brittle tool in the engine. Thankfully the tap broke beyond the end of the tapered bush and finally i was able to remove it from the engine case. I removed the broken tap from the bushing by clamping it in a vice and lubing it before taking a vice-grip pliers and extracting the nuisance.

End result, no need to visit my LHS for spares to I was pretty fortunate. Completed the install, by loctiting the screw in place.

Next thing to do it break down my diffs and see what's inside. Going out for upgraded radio gear tomolo, decided on a Spektrum DX3S with Hitec servos.