sharkattack99

well i was playing with my truck to day started on some pavement, then went to some grass well i played for a little bit then it died so i went to restart it and found this.








could my mesh have been off, cause it looked right, or was it the grass that killed the spur> it was a 17/49 gearing any thought cause im ordering a new one and really don't want it to happen again. thanks


shark

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

Assuming that's a Savage X? If so, then that gearing is alright considering that stock is 17/47. From the looks of that gear, you mesh is too LOOSE. Either it was set like that, or the motor mount screws got loose and it wiggled away.

sharkattack99

well it was an x now i converted it to an xl it was 17/47, but the breaks were rubbing on the CB so i went to a 49t spur no more rubbing, but i will check the screws, damn things even with lock tight i still either loose them or they loosen up, lol. thanks man

so if thats to loose what happens when it too tight?

Bayer-Z28

^ Too tight would be the same thing, but you would melt the gear probably. I set my mesh up by hand with metal spur and a new 18t metal CB. I got it to the point where I thought it was right and that little gear head in my head was saying that's perfect right where it is. Holt the CB and move the spur until you feel very little play, but some.

I have a slipper clutch deal right now ebbcause the previous owner stripped the suppr out an gave me the replacment with the truck. the tiny tiny screws walked out twice on me already. If you get one of those, get some Automotive gradde RED Loctite andd use that instead of the HPI stuff. I just had to put mine back together, but still missing three out of the six small screws for the gear itself.. :\

sharkattack99

so then my gearing ok just my mesh was loose right?

Bayer-Z28

It looked too loose. The break an round off point was about half of the mesh, or about half of the gear tooth. I sunk my metal one about 80% of the way in, but the lash adjustment just felt right..
Compare to the section that is still intact, compared to what is left underneath the damage.


here's the one I have.. Up to you if you want a metal one or the cheaper plastic gear. But IMO, Metal VS Plastic; Metal wins.


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ur-Gear-Set-47

sharkattack99

well i heard that a metel spur gear wasn't really needed, i can't use a 47t spur gear the brakes rub on the CB with a 47t. but i work on my mesh better and see what happened. maybe down the line i will go metel but plastic is cheap and ok for now, . thanks for the help.

Bayer-Z28

^ If I had to buy the spur, I prolly would have gotten the plastic one as well..   no shame in that.. Live and learn like the rest of us..

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

Did you upgrade it to full XL spec, as in width and length? If so, then you may want to gear it down a little bit more, as the added rotating mass and weight really does make a difference on the power delivery. What wheels/tires are you running? 16/49 would be good. That LRP will easily crank out the gearing you have, but it will be less strain on your drive-train with slightly lower gearing. .02

As for plastic vs. metal spur gear; plastic wins. Plastic costs a fraction of a metal spur gear, weighs less, and is a cheap crunch point if something has to break. I would rather have a

Bayer-Z28

^ I want to gear mine down now.. I think my CB was getting a little hot with the 47/18.. 49/16 like you said.. but we'll see how long this darn metal slipper holds up.. The darn tiny screws keep backing out and I've lost a couple already.

sharkattack99

no i just did the length the width is still savage x 4.6, i running the super mudder tires on maximizer beadlocks. there still smaller then the xl stock tires i think there 165 and the xl is 170 i think.


i was wondering about gearing and the lrp cause it won't wheelie at all with the setup i have, i was told it should wheelie on command but it doesn't i do believe the tune is right here is a video of it running does it sound like a good tune? i know this question isn't with the topic but i figured since im here why start another thread, .


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeZyDXp2bDo[/youtube]

HPI_Savage_RC

Definitely too loose. You want about 0.2-0.5mm of backlash in the gears.

sharkattack99

so almost no movement when you hold the CB and wiggle the spur gear?

HPI_Savage_RC

You want a tiny bit of backlash; basically as tight as the gears will run without binding. I set mine this way, and I've only stripped one spur gear since 2006.

Make sure you have washers under your engine mount screws, and that you tighten the screws as much as possible. Engine shifting is a common cause of stripped spur gears.

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

Gearing is key to wheeling, combined with wheel/tire size/weight and traction. Converting the chassis plates to XL also reduced the ability of wheeling, even though it still will, just not as easy as before.

Bayer-Z28

No smoke at higher R's.. Maybe give your HSN a hair more fuel..

scarletboa

My Feedback: (1)

+1. you need to lean your hsn 1/8 of a turn.

rotzilla

do you have a vented clutch bell? on those plastic gears can you set the mesh with a piece of paper? plastic might be cheaper and less rotating mass but i havent stripped my metal gear yet....

sharkattack99

yep i have a vented CB, how does that peace of paper method work i don't really understand that method?

HPI_Savage_RC

You take a piece of paper and place it between the CB and spur, then push them together. This allows the paper to act as a spacer between the interface of the teeth, giving you some backlash and a proper mesh between the gears.

I could never get the hang of it, and I find it much easier to set the mesh based on the feeling of gear backlash.

hydroboy

My Feedback: (1)

Hey I went through a period of stripped spurs to find out that my engine mount and chassis plate were cracked. But I got alot of practice setting the gear mesh. I use the paper from the parts bag cut into little strips. Also getting them squared and aligned is important once everything is set nicely I then pull one bolt at a time and blue locktite it and put it in and crank it down. One at a time so as not to let the motor shift at all. Good luck!

sharkattack99

yeah thats how i did it as well except i had to use the red lock tight the blue one wasn't cutting it and i put a lock washer on as well for extra secerity.

woodwore69

Back to the tune we have one person say give top more fuel and someone else says thats it lean it out ?????????? I would lean bottom 1/8 turn in and top 1/8 out and see if it will wheeely

sharkattack99

yeah i know im kind of confused about that myself, i got it to finally wheely i leaned my LSN some more and it throttles great when i punch it, but runs to lean when the tank is about half full is there anyway to fix that with out having to do a mid tank mod, and im still no sure how that fixes it anyway, but any other way of fixing it with out having to do it? i think i have the HSN were it should be and the LSN will try and get a video of it, just as soon as i fix the pull start.