I was a spectator at an IMAC event at Thunderbird Field two years ago and I was totally hooked. I browsed the pits and everyone and I mean everyone was friendly despite my questions, photos, and their being involved in competition. After a career change and a move, I'm ready to give it a shot. I have tons of questions about where I should start that ranges from aircraft, motors, routines, and I could go on all day. Is there somewhere to get this start-up information.

Thanks,
Danny

A - Go to the IMAC web page and join IMAC (you will need to join the AMA too).
http://www.mini-iac.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=1
http://www.modelaircraft.org/
B - Download the 'Basic sequence' with the 'walk throughs'.
C - Download the judging criteria and read about each maneuver and how the maneuver is judged.
D - Practice the sequence. You can fly your foamie, trainer, the cheapest airplane you own... in Basic. There is NO limitation on the equipment you fly in Basic. Start with what you have now, upgrade later.
E - Go to a tournament, sign up to fly Basic.
F - Volunteer to scribe (record scores for the judges).
G - Fly when its your turn.
H - Do your best.
I - Ask questions.

...your started...

What is involved technically and financially with an inexpensive smaller size aircraft and, at the other end, an all-out, spare-no-expense 40 percent ship? For the smaller aircraft I will use a 25 percent scale CAP 232 that is made by Sig Manufacturing. This kit is one of the more popular ARF (almost ready-to-fly) kits. It has a wingspan of 73 inches and a ready-to-fly weight of about 11 pounds. ARF means the airframe comes pre-built and covered. All you have to do is some minor assembly, like installing the engine and radio gear. This CAP sells for about $350. The cost for a good 1.8-cubic-inch, two- or four-stroke engine is around $400. You also will need at least five high-quality servos, setting you back another $400. A simple $100 radio will work, but you are much better off spending the extra bucks for a basic computer radio ($400). So for a total of $1,550 you can be competitive in IMAC.

On the other end of the spectrum is a 40 percent (116-inch wingspan) CAP 232 made by Carden Aircraft. This is a kit in the more traditional sense, since you must build from plans with balsa, spruce, ply, and foam. The lower part of the fuselage is built up from these woods with formers and longerons as in a full-scale airplane. The front and rear turtledecks, wings, and tail group are foam core that is sheeted with balsa. The wings and stabilizer are removed for transportation. The cost of this kit is about $1,000. You will need another $400 just for hardware, glue, covering, and other nickel-and-dime items. This aircraft will need one of the 150-cc twin-cylinder gas monsters ($1,600). You need the best servos you can get and many of them. Typically that means three to four for the rudder, two for the elevators, two on each aileron, and one more for the throttle. That’s ii servos, and the best ones run about $115 each, totaling $1,265. Other miscellaneous items like a carbon fiber prop and spinner, servo leads, batteries, switches, etc. will add another $600. The total for this big ride is a little under $5,000, and that’s without the radio transmitter. Pilots who fly these 40 percent aircraft tend to buy the top of the line computer radio, so add $1,500. You could spend even more money and buy an all-composite airframe. That airframe alone can run as high as $5,000, and you still need the same items as the wood kit to complete it. To some this might sound expensive, but when I hear how much an MT or Hartzell three-blade propeller goes for, we look positively parsimonious.

Plane-o
Falcon has given you a great summary. The only thing
I would add is to encourage you to resist skipping Basic.
Many (most??) who start IMAC will begin in Sportsman.
I found that even though the Basic manuvers may be
something an active flier has been doing reasonably
well for years, there is more to IMAC competition than
just doing simple manuver elements. The issues of
being judged and having to do those manuvers consistently
well and on call, changes everything - it makes it much
harder than the punching holes in the air that we all tend
to do at our local fields.
Good luck
Bruce

Falcon,

great summary, that is just what I was looking for.

I plan on starting with my Kangke Cap232 using a Roto35Vi and it should do all right for basic and then some. I also have the CG Sukhoi that uses RC's converted G-26 and flys the basic schedule better than I can I am also thinking of using my GP Gene Soucy Extra 300S using an OS160FX once I maiden it.

I have been eyeing the Wildhare Edge 540T for sometime now

descisions, decisions...

Anyone have any thoughts on the list I gave what may be the better of the bunch.

If you cqan get someone to film your flight, do so and look at it. You will see all kinds of mistakes.
This is something I have seen and want to be able to do for myself and friends some day.

That could be way too embarassing but is a great idea. Now all I have to do is get someone brave enough to stand next to me J/K

I think your Extra should be better than the other 2 you have ready to fly. I base my opinion simply because it is the only one glow powered so it should be the only one that is light enough to fly very good, assuming good servos are used. That said, I would choose the Extra to compete. The other two can be good choices or can be very good back-ups...

Back in 1999, when I started flying IMAC (basic) I flew a GP 300S 40 size. I did not win so much, but had a lot of fun. In 2003 I was in the need of a better plane and built a Cap 232 25% glow powered. It is resonably light and has lots of power. It flew intermediate in 2003 and advanced in 2004. With that plane, I made only 1 contest without being in the top 3 (it was a really windy day, when smaller planes really get a big disadvantage).

I say all this to show you that the proposed sizes of plane you have are good. Don't worry too much about the size of the plane but more about the quality of the components of the planes and quality of your practice time.

Get a good caller (my girlfriend is the best caller I ever had) and practice with what you have. Don't change your plane until you feel limited by the plane.

Thanks for the Great reply. I have joined IMAC and I have been an AMA member for five years. I started flying R/C six years ago on gliders. I have since been flying fun fly and 3d type aircraft and a dust collecting helicopter. The Sig ARF sounds good as I like Sig quality. I currently have a Wild Hare Extra 300S 28% thats yet to be assembled. I have the digital servos and the SPCM receiver but lack the motor. I've leaned toward the DA-50. Should I be concerned about canisters yet? Or just get my feet wet in basic. Regardless I plan to start in Basic.

Many Thanks,
Danny

3D,

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yep the Extra has all Hitech 5645 servos in it n 6.0Volt as does all of my other planes

Desert Aircraft and Dave Johnson have not given me a single reason to look for another engine manufacturer. I've got the 100 and the 150 and I've heard good things about the 50. I'll be picking up another 150 shortly.
Cans... if you don't need them for your flying field... wait. You are not going to appreciably affect your IMAC score by not having cans. Don't worry about them for now, maybe in the future.
BME gave me a reason to look for another engine. I've heard the 3W distributor "main man" has a bad attitude.
Nah... for my money, until they give me a reason to go else where, it will be DA. Period.

I would put the DA50 in the Extra.
Email me when are coming back to Thunderbird's field and I will give you some pointer's on your flying.
We will be hosting a IMAC contest there in August and I hope to see ya there.

Thanks

Toyse