All,
I just achieved my first--first place win in basic. I did an analysis of my scores. All 16 sets of scored manuevers(4 rounds 2 judges 2 sequences per round=16) I averaged close to 8 on everything else but on the hammer my average was 5.8. This included 2 zeros on hammers.

First off let me say that my problems with hammers are random...roll the dice and you will come up with one of the following

Flop
Fly over
tail wag
off in yaw post hammer on downline
perfect hammer
etc...

I know the standard responce will be practice practice practice, this I know but I still need a little help. I flew Monday and burned three tanks of gas doing just hammers, but I still can't get it. Just when I think I have the timing down...flop goes the weesel.

I will continue to practice until I get it down, but I can only fly 1 to 2 times a week and I want to get past this hammer delema so I can prepare to move up to sportsman. My plane is a slightly nose heavy 33% extra 260 with a BME 110 weight 21.5lb.

The plane has had 30 trim flights and everyone who has seen it fly or has flown it says it is trimmed perfectly. Just wondering if there is somebody else out there that faced this same delema and what did they do to correct it.

Any help would be appriciated

"Dangerous" Dan Powell

one more thing

my rudder is set to just barely climb in knife edge at full throttle. I have tried going to high rate rudder for hammer but the results are the same. I would rather not have to worry about a switch for hammers

There is an article on judging and flying the Hammer on the IMAC national
web site (Articles/Flight School). In my experience, difficulty with fly overs
and flops are usually throttle management issues and tail wagging and yaw
on the down line are rudder release issues - both of these are covered in the
article on the IMAC site. I am sure you will get additional input on this forum.

Good Luck

Dan.... I am "Almost" certain, without looking or seeing your airplane that it is slightly tail-heavy. What you are going through is what many pilots experience when performing the Hammerhead with a plane that has a rearward CG.

Some pilots prefer to have an airplane that requires very little (if any at all) down elevator when inverted.... I know...because I used to trim my plane like that....but you will find that a little forward CG on the airplane will work WONDERS, not only on many maneuvers (including snaps)...but your Hammers will be a thing of grace!

Try adding some weight to the front the next time you go out & see what happens...you can always take it off if that does not fix it for you...
Let me know how it all turns out.

Wayne

PS..... I would suggest keeping the low rudder settings you have for sequence flying, but definitely use a switch for the Hammer..... It is something you are going to need as you move up the classes, so it's better to start learning switch changes from now.

I thought the same thing. I moved my batteries 15 inches forward and added 6 oz to the nose. My CG is over 1/4 inch in front of where the mfg recomends as the forward most CG. It needs down elevator inverted. I have absolutly everything else dialed in at this CG it is just these darn hammers.

Sounds like you either need more throw, a little higher idle speed or you are letting the plane get too slow before you try to push over. If you are flopping try starting the rudder input slightly sooner, before the plane gets too slow. Or, leave a tiny bit of throttle on at the top, sometimes a little more propwash is all you need. Just be sure that you dont wingover. I'm not talking about kicking the plane over with throttle (although that can work if you do it perfectly) I am talking about a little bit higher idle speed so that the rudder is more efective with less throw.

If the plane is wanting to pendulum on the way down, continue to hold in just a touch of rudder input on the way down, easing it out as you descend so that it does not show.

Im new to IMAC, but in pattern the track of the airplane is what matters. Doesnt matter if the nose is yawed a little to wind correct as long as the track is straight up/down. Im curious if this is the same in IMAC. I havenever really asked I just do it, it might be a downgrade. I will be interested to see what the rule is.

The easiest way to have consistent hammerheads is to have the SAME throttle setting each and every time. And this throttle setting will not be idle! I usually give 3-4 clicks up throttle at the top of the line, wait until the plane slows to a stop, and then give full rudder. I also usually have elevator and aileron in - sometimes full aileron depending upon how long I wait to input rudder - torque rolling hammerheads suck! Once the plane starts to pivot, get off the throttle completely. The downline technique depends upon wind direction. If there is a strong cross-wind, apply a LITTLE opposite rudder before the pivot is complete, and hold it in to prevent the tail wag. Slowly release the rudder as you come down. If you have any rolling elements on the downline, make sure you are completely out of the rudder before rolling, or the roll will look terrible. If there is no cross-wind (yeah right), keep a little of the same rudder in as the plane exits its pivot to prevent the way. Slowly release it on the downline.

Hope this helps.

Ken

Ken is exactly right.
My guess is your going to idle on the upline and then trying to time the hammer. Problem with that is you have to be PERFECT on your timing and I dont know anyone who is consistently perfect.
Leave some power in on the upline, let the plane come to a stop by itself and then give the rudder. You now have prop blast over the rudder making it much more effective. It will rotate right around.

I see some excellent suggestions here and, unless I missed it, I'll just add this- if there is any wind, be sure to hammer into the wind.

Dave

thanks guys and gals. I will take these suggestions and put in some more practice tomorrow and see if I improve.

here are my scores see hammers are killing me: open the attached file in paint and blow it up to 100% otherwise you can't read it

Hi Dan. I got my schedule and I'm not gonna be off during the Ft. Worth event. Needless to say, I'm upset. I really want to come fly with you guys. I'm going to bid off for your Sherman event thoug! Wish me luck.

Just wanted to ask if your plane has dihederal effect? Also known as roll coupling. When your in level flight and add right rudder, does it roll right?

I know when I used to teach em in full scale we used to always add opposite aileron as we applied the rudder input. This was to keep from rolling in and kept the wings in plane during the rotation. I use it on my Yak and have good results. Let us know.

it turns totally flat i programmed our rudder pitch and roll coupling.

i think the hammers are figured out. I was reducing throttle too quickly

Ken and Wayne gave you some good advise. I would like to add one more thing and that is to watch your pitch attitude during the vertical upline . you are more likely to flop if the picth attitude is canopy in. that is if the plane leans more towards the canopy you are in a bad position to pivot the plane. Watch this carefully and it will also help.


Tony Fandino

I want to say thanks for all the advice given on this thread. I think my whole problem was throttle. My plane has a redicolous amount of power 21.5lb BME 110 28x10 Mejzlik. I fly my level lines at around 1/3 throttle. I started gradually applying throttle on the wind corrected uplines to about 3/4 throttle. Then I would gradually reduce throttle to around 1/8th just before it stopped moving up I would take out the crab(headwind) and give full rudder while reducing throttle to 3 or 4 clicks above idle, releasing 1/2 the rudder when the plane was 1/2 way through the rotation and releasing the other 1/2 rudder along with the 3 or 4 clicks of throttle on the downline. I was able to nail 24 hammers in a row. Once again thanks.

"Dangerous" Dan Powell

lol, glad to hear that Ken and Wayne's advice fixed you up. I know how frustrating it can be to struggle with something simple and how satisfying it is to finally get it worked out.

BTW, I have been flying nothing but a 27x10 BME prop on my BME 110 with really good results, but it sounds like it turns a 28x10 really well. I might have to give it a try..

It would Rip the 28x10 Mejzlix running 32 to 1 really rich on break-in. I am thinking about switching to a 29x10 mejzlik. The 28x10 pulls very hard. It will hover under 1/4 and when you punch it out of a hover It looks like there were rockets strapped to the sides. The BME is a shorter stroke motor and Really hits its power curve around 7000 rpm.

Hopefully we can all fly like these guys someday.

These are same vids I took at the "05 Nationals.
Mike McConnville and Mark Leseberg.

This is pretty much what it suposed to look like.

Mark 1
Mark 2
Mike 1

Need to add yourself to that list Wayne, I hope I can someday fly half as well as you.

Thanks Mike but not even close...
Someday maybe.