I am building a new arf, and when i epoxied the wings together, somehow they slipped slightly apart and i did not catch it until it was set. My question is this, is there any way to debond epoxy or does it have to be cut out? The wings do fit on the plane ok, but they are supposed to have a very slight dihedral, now they have a slight negative dihedral. It looks to me like it will fly fine, but i just dont like it. Am i screwed? Thanks

Get out your razor saw.

Tom

Do you have a picture? What plane is it?

If it was an uncovered model, you only have to heat epoxy above about 65 deg and it will soften enough to slide a blade through it.<div>
</div><div>On a fully covered ARF I have to concur with the above</div><div>
</div><div>"get out the razor saw"</div><div>
</div><div>
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It is the new super stick .40 from H9. I can get pics, but it will be tomorrow or late tonight.

it is pre covered, but i can heat it without damaging the cover, it will just take a while. It is the area between the wings and the wing joiners that slide into them.

Your covering nor the glue joints in the framework will stand to that heat. Mboland is from Australia and the 65 degrees is Celcuis, or 149F. Most of the ARF's use some sort of hot glue, so things could get really ugly. I've had to rebuild two wings, one a 4*60 that was assembled wrong and the other was a crashed Suhkoi SU-31 that the joiner broke in half in a crash. Both wings were taken to bare wood and the center ribs were cut away. Both wings required fabercating new center ribs and making a new joiner pocket, Both required cutting center sheeting to get in beyond the center rib for the joiner pocket.

It looks like that plane as afull symetrical airfoil. I would fly it as is and see how it goes.If it is symetrical, flipping the wing may give you your missingdihedral. Or for $40 you can get a new wing set.

Don

STOP before you do any more to it. A stik can benefit from anhedral and actually be a better flying plane. I have seen a few done this way deliberately. There were several articles and photos in the old RC Reports mag about it. (That's the magazine that scammed a bunch of people like me when they folded up with the money some of us had just paid to renew our subscriptions).
It might look a little strange but fly even better than the regular stik.
Fred

So, are the center ribs are joined or are they not even touching? I wouldn't fly a plane with just the joiner holding the wing halves together. If they "slipped apart" it shouldn't be too hard to cut the joiner, then figure out a way to put a new one in.

OkieTrucker,
I did the exact same thing with my first ARF an LT40. I cut the wing apart using a hack saw. I then peeled back the covering and used epoxy to glue the wing back together. Then used 3" fiberglass and epoxy to re-inforce the wing with no dihedral brace. Flew the heck out of that plane. It trained three people before it meant its demise.
John

A flying buddy managed to put the wing joiner in upside down in a Lanier Mariner 40 seaplane resulting in anhedral. The plane only had a slight dihedral designed in originally. The bottom line is the plane flew fine but needed some upthrust put into the engine. The only downside there is that if the power was cut abruptly the plane tended to sink a little quickly.

Either get out the razor saw, order a new wing or just give it a shot to see how she handles.

Good luck!

Here are the pics, I think i am gonna fly it as is, and if it dont work out, i will just get a new set of wings for $40, its worth it. thanks to all

Actually according to Ed Moreman it should fly better. He regularly puts anhedral in his sticks. Less pull in knife edge.
John

Ever notive the anhedrial in a B-52 at rest? Of course, it flexed out at flying speed.</p>

The F-104 Starfire has true anhedralnot wing droop. Probably some other planes as well. I think his plane will be ok. Might take a little heat from the flyin' buddies though!

MIGHT????? I dunno about your club, but we live, i mean they live to harass!!! LOL

If there is room in space between the two ribs I would stick a piece of 1/16" or 1/18" aircraft ply as far as you can, maybe sand a bevel to get it down deep, then put in a bunch of epoxy and jam it in. That way at least the ribs will be joined, not just held together by the joiner.

that is a good idea, i am gonna do that, thank you

Easier to peel back the covering and use a some 2 - 3" wide fiberglass.