I Need all the data I can get to set up pull-pull rudder on a 10 pound airplane with about 20 inch cables. Thanks In Advance, Capt,n

Wow...no replys............................................ .............................??? Capt,n

Dubro makes some nice Pull/Pull setups in differnt sizes. I have used them on all my 1/4 and 1/3 scale planes. Do a google search for them.
Anthony

This might help......... http://www.swbmfg.com/pages/Pull%252...planation.html

For small planes I like to use these http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN3515
You'll need a Cable set up too http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=DUB881

Easy to set up as long as you can get to the rudder horns

You've received some good info here. The simplest setup will be to purchase one of the pull-pull systems that have all the hardware included. You will also need to obtain a dual rudder horn (not included with some of the pull-pull systems), and depending on your particular use, you may need longer servo arms. A previous poster included http://www.swbmfg.com/pages/Pull%252...planation.htmland you should examine this closely. Proper geometry prevents one cable from loosening as the control surface is moved (and could potentially be problematic). For a bit more in-depth explanation of the geometry issues, you can look at this short article about the so-called Ackerman effect here http://www.qmfc.org/school/ackerman.htm.

Bob

Thanks very much guys....I got the parts....looks like the rudder horns will need to be placed with care. Will 1/16 back from hinge centerline be ok? Or is right on centerline better? Thanks Again Capt,n

all the ww1 scale planes i have done with pull/pull, and the best setup occurs when the points are right on the hinge line.

a simple cheap way to set up a pull pull is use plastic coated steel fishing leader, the plastic coated stuff slides easy inside any thin guide tube, I use the inner pushrods the plastic type.

then secure the wire with crimps through the horns at the rudder, I like to use the small EZ connectors jut thread the wire through them and tighten the grub screw onto the wire it makes for easy adjustment,

here is my FW190 A8 I am working on its a 60 size model the PP is for the retractable tail wheel but the basic concept is the same for all surfaces,I use the same basic set up for my larger FW190 as well, just a little heavier set up at the servo is all the crimps work under heavy stress loads as long as there really squeezed down flat

We use pull pull systems all the time on Old timer a/c from slow texacos through to vertical drag racing duration models.  So here are a few points that have been developed on over time.
1/ Dubro or similar pull pull systems are best for first timers (you learn how to select the individual bits as you develop confidence
2/ Carefully positin the control horns so the hinge point is as close as possible to the l/e of the control surface
I usually bolt the 2 horns together (the ones on opposite sides or upper and lowers)
3/ If you are attaching the cables directly to the servo arm, drill the arm to a size that allows some shrink tube to go through it and feed the control cable through that and crimp the cable end. I use 2 crimps 90 degrees opposed (crimp and rotate the cable 90 degrees and crimp again)
4/ I then run the cable to the tail making sure it doesn't rub against any bit of the fuselage, I centre the servo lock the control surface in neutral and attach a quick link with cable adjust screwed in 1/2 way to the control horn you select to work on.  I the pull the cable through the adjuster and crimp as described 3.
5/ I do this to all the control horns check the servo neutral and control surface before each crimp
6/ I then tighten the cable until there is no slack.
7/ I didn't mention this before but I always put a nut the same size as the adjuster on it and tighten it up against the quick link once adjusing is completed.
These systems allow a bit of adjustment for neutral of offset by virtue of adjustment of the cables.

Works well for us and I haven't had a failure yet    

Thanks a lot Guys for taking the time to share you data. Photos even!!! This sharing on the NET...is great!! I will take the good advice and get this done...with more confidence. Best Regars to you all. Capt,n

Bob,
These are the reasons why I like using the wheel on smaller planes, you don't have to worry about mismatched arcs fighting each other. If you use the wheel and put the rudder horns with zero offset to the hinge line, there is no slacking, or binding. Since you don't usually need or want a big wheel/servo horns, nor do you have the room in a 40-60 size plane, it's a great easy set up option

Set up in my Kingfisher for example, since there is no access to the rudder horns, tension adjustment is made mid-cable via the nyrod coupler,
It ain't the prettiest set up, but it's worked well for 15 years

Like Tim I make up my own systems. Difference between mine and his are the I buy rigging couplers in both 4-40 and 2-56. Sometimes on smaller planes I also use quick connectors, sometimes I have clevises on both ends, just depends on the plane I'm setting up.
I keep different gauges of the plastic coated stainless fishing leader on hand in my shop for different sizes of planes too. The wire I get at fishing supply stores, I live by a Bass Pro shop. Rigging couplers I'm happy to say my LHS stocks.
The wheels SO4M showed are great and I have used them on some giant scale planes but price keeps me from using them often. Making my own system only cost me a couple bucks and I can make up a bunch of them for next to nothing in cost. One of the reasons I make my own is the prices charged for the kits.