Royal P26
11-23-2010 | 06:00 AM
#1
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From: Swansea, UNITED KINGDOM
Royal P26
After many years the Royal P26 has finaly come to the top of my build pile. I remember reading that the U/C needs some work and that the tail plane needs lightening, but are there any other issues that I can take care of during the build. I am thinking of converting it to electric as well, any comments on this.
Thanks
Alan
Thanks
Alan
11-25-2010 | 08:24 AM
#2
My Feedback: (25)
RE: Royal P26
Hi, not sure if you saw this thread: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9346949/anchors_9364813/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9364813]P-26 Group Build[/link], it's one I started for a club build we are doing. We are building from plans, I had a kit that we used for reference and to make fiberglass parts from. There are 4 of us, each building their own plane. We are at the painting stage now and hope to have them ready for the spring. Looking forward to seeing your build.
What is U/C? Obviously I haven't flown the plane yet, but it builds very light for the girth of the fuse and the wing is big. If you are careful to carve the rear blocks to the correct shape there really isn't that much weight to worry about, although I would make sure the blocks are lightweight balsa.
What is U/C? Obviously I haven't flown the plane yet, but it builds very light for the girth of the fuse and the wing is big. If you are careful to carve the rear blocks to the correct shape there really isn't that much weight to worry about, although I would make sure the blocks are lightweight balsa.
11-25-2010 | 09:31 AM
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From: Swansea, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Royal P26
Hi,
Thanks for the link.
When I purchased the kit about 15 years ago the dealer warned me that the under carriage was a weak point and that the tail end would have to be built light to save having to add lead to the short nose, so adding to the all up weight.
When I have read through your build thread I will probably contact you directly if that is O.K.
Thanks
Alan
Thanks for the link.
When I purchased the kit about 15 years ago the dealer warned me that the under carriage was a weak point and that the tail end would have to be built light to save having to add lead to the short nose, so adding to the all up weight.
When I have read through your build thread I will probably contact you directly if that is O.K.
Thanks
Alan
11-25-2010 | 10:20 AM
#4
Banned
RE: Royal P26
Smithcreek: UC=undercarriage.
Also as I recall Royal=Marutaka. Marutaka designed and kitted; Royal provided graphics and a more recognizable name. You might check that.
Les
Also as I recall Royal=Marutaka. Marutaka designed and kitted; Royal provided graphics and a more recognizable name. You might check that.
Les
11-25-2010 | 11:15 AM
#5
My Feedback: (25)
RE: Royal P26
ORIGINAL: ytrewq
Hi,
Thanks for the link.
When I purchased the kit about 15 years ago the dealer warned me that the under carriage was a weak point and that the tail end would have to be built light to save having to add lead to the short nose, so adding to the all up weight.
When I have read through your build thread I will probably contact you directly if that is O.K.
Thanks
Alan
Hi,
Thanks for the link.
When I purchased the kit about 15 years ago the dealer warned me that the under carriage was a weak point and that the tail end would have to be built light to save having to add lead to the short nose, so adding to the all up weight.
When I have read through your build thread I will probably contact you directly if that is O.K.
Thanks
Alan
The tail feathers build very light as long as you use the glue sparingly, it's all the blocks back there. When I built mine I did an initial carving of the tail blocks, then realized I could take off a lot more wood to get a more correct scale appearance, so in the end there wasn't too much extra wood left.
11-27-2010 | 02:34 PM
#9
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Royal P26
ORIGINAL: smithcreek
Feel free to contact me and/or post on the other thread, questions, pictures of your build, whatever. The under carriage definitely has a lot of potential for damage. It has fairly tall gear with wheel pants/spats attached to the gear near the bottom of the gear and attached to the wing. The plans state that flying wires are optional, but I'm considering the bottom wires essential so I don't destroy the wheel pants and possibly tear a chunk out of the bottom of the wing sheeting. Wires on the bottom will keep the landing gear from raking from side to side and I think that's what would cause the most damage. I considered changing the gear to use some Robart Oleo struts, but finding a strut that would take a 4'' wheel and fit inside the wheel pants was not easy. There was a set that might have worked, I can't remember which ones, they were for an ARF, maybe something like the Ryan here: [link=http://www.robart.com/catalog/secure/uploads/file/RSDim%20Drawings/RYN.pdf]Robart Ryan gear[/link]. In the end I just decided to go with regular wire, the $165 cost was a factor also.
The tail feathers build very light as long as you use the glue sparingly, it's all the blocks back there. When I built mine I did an initial carving of the tail blocks, then realized I could take off a lot more wood to get a more correct scale appearance, so in the end there wasn't too much extra wood left.
ORIGINAL: ytrewq
Hi,
Thanks for the link.
When I purchased the kit about 15 years ago the dealer warned me that the under carriage was a weak point and that the tail end would have to be built light to save having to add lead to the short nose, so adding to the all up weight.
When I have read through your build thread I will probably contact you directly if that is O.K.
Thanks
Alan
Hi,
Thanks for the link.
When I purchased the kit about 15 years ago the dealer warned me that the under carriage was a weak point and that the tail end would have to be built light to save having to add lead to the short nose, so adding to the all up weight.
When I have read through your build thread I will probably contact you directly if that is O.K.
Thanks
Alan
The tail feathers build very light as long as you use the glue sparingly, it's all the blocks back there. When I built mine I did an initial carving of the tail blocks, then realized I could take off a lot more wood to get a more correct scale appearance, so in the end there wasn't too much extra wood left.
in regards to "The plans state that flying wires are optional, but I'm considering the bottom wires essential so I don't destroy the wheel pants and possibly tear a chunk out of the bottom of the wing sheeting. Wires on the bottom will keep the landing gear from raking from side to side and I think that's what would cause the most damage."
Trust me use all the flying wires. I had a beautiful aeronca c-3 with an 80 inch wing supposed to use 12 flying wires in all to support the wing and hold it to the plane. I said forget it because the interfere with my fm non 2.4 radio instead used 4 bolts through aluminum rod to secure the wing and 30 feet from the ground after takeoff the wings folded up and down she went. she needs the flying wires for support.
