Ok, I'm building a pt-40 and in the instructions, on page 17 at step 16 (construction notes) I didn't line up the edges where the arrow was pointing to. I know I know DUH! Not sure why I did that. I ended up making the other 2 top edges even and not the single top edge, if you know what I mean. The question is how can I fix it, should I make a whole new piece or maybe I can remove some material and add some scrap in a few places. It really bums me out because I was and still am trying to be carefull as possible. Thanks for the help.

Here is a link to the manual.
www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/gpma0118.html

Looks like that doubler is supposed to be even at the top where the arrow points, but not even on the shoulders below that. I assume when glued properly the holes for the wing dowel line up. The reason they are not even at the shoulders is to follow the shape of the fuse. Personally I would just sand the angle into the shoulders then add a small piece of aircraft ply maybe (1" x 1") on the doubler, over the hole for the wing dowel. Then redrill that hole based on the hole in the former, NOT the doubler that you glued in the wrong position.

In the future you can insert a dowel into the dowel hole to make sure they line up while gluing.

I think the first thing I would do is to try to break the two pieces apart by tapping a single-edge razor blade between them. It won't be a perfect split, but if you can work a little from each edge you should be able to do it. And if you shave a little into the wood either way, don't sweat it.

Once you have them apart, sand the glued edges fairly smooth and re-glue them

If not, you could just glue some scrap to the top edges, but when you drill the hole, you'll have to drill it that much higher than the hole that is there now (Or drill the hole as is and file it up by whatever amouint the piece is too low)

Don't be too concerned, fill up with hard balsa. No need to re-make it. It is not a huge stress point - once the whole plane is together. Use epoxy ipo wood glue or superglue.

What about where the dowel goes in? Should I just fill in the hole with something and redrill, or would it not really matter. Also what should I use to fill hole with. Thanks for the help by the way.

This is a gentle trainer plane, so no huge stress forces involved i.e such in a high speed or large aerobatic plane.

I would cut a piece of ply the width of the inside fuse and 15 - 20 mm wide (high) and epoxy it in place (if you have the space) on the fuel tank side. Fill the original hole with a piece of wood & epoxy and redrill it later. Or, if you can still change the dowell in the wing, go for a larger diam dowel (get it from a hardware store) and drill out the skew holes to the size of the new, larger dowel - probably the easiest option.

The idea of the new piece of ply i.e 3 - 4 mm is that it now carries the load whilst the original holes guide it and help to carry load. Expoxy, especiall 24 hr type set rock hard. Good enough to fill hole.
Bundu

Not really, the hole will still be off-center with the dowel

The only problem this mistake created is that the dowel hole is now too low - but only by a tiny bit. Once the dowel is in that hole, the hole prevents the wing from shifting up, or side-to-side. The Fuse really is what keeps the wing from moving downward.

Therefore, you can easily drill the hole where the existing hole is in the former, and then, using a round file, file upward the small amount you need to make the dowel fit

Ok so, I think I know what you are saying, I can fill in the uneven shoulders on the side with scrap and sand down. The top edge can be sanded at angle required. As for the hole it doesn't matter if the bottom on the doubler is out of round as long as the top on the whole former is in line? That is what I'm picking up. Thanks.

There are two parts, the former and the doubler. Both have holes in them. The hole in the former is still in the right spot, it's only the doubler that has the hole in the wrong place. My original post said glue another small doubler, or tripler I guess, over the doubler, then drill or file a new hole where former F-2's hole (the hole that is in the right spot) is located.

My mistake. I thought the doubler had been glued on too low. Now I see that it is too high.

smithcreek's advice is right on the money.

Ok, I get ya.. so just make a square piece from scrap for a "tripler" and use the hole in the former (not the doubler) to go through. Would the extra thickness bother anything? So as long as the holes in 1,2, and 3 are even at the top it shouldn't matter if the hole in 2 is a bit of an oval. Sorry I am really not trying to frustrate anybody here Iappreciate your patience with me. Thanks

I'm about to build a GP Extra kit. It uses lite plywood circular discs to refine the location of the dowels. You have a thick former with oversized holes - bigger than the dowels. This allows movement of the wing to make sure that it's aligned with the fuse. Once aligned secure the wing to the fuse. Take the discs with holes in the center - holes being exactly the outside diameter of the dowels. Slip the discs over the dowels and press against the back side of the former. Tack the outer edges of the discs with thin CA - just enough to hold the disc in place so it will stay in place when you remove the wing. After the wing is removed thoroughly glue the discs to the former with CA.

I used a similar technique when I converted my SIG LT-40 from rubber bands to nylon bolts. Worked well.

Correct

Don't worry SirDanK, save your frustration for when you build two left wings, like I have done in the past.

Yea, it almost seems like the more kits you build, the more mistakes you make. Because you look at a step and think, "Oh, I know how to do that", but they do it diffetently on THIS model than they did on your LAST model!

This is why we always say: READ and UNDERSTAND each step before you cut or glue!

But we all still make a few mistakes. [:@]