TF Spitfire Build 2010
#1
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From: Augusta,
GA
<span style="font-size: larger; ">Its a new year, and after a ton of Guillows kits I think it time to tackle one of these larger scale RC kits. For Christmas my wonderful wife splurged a little on me. She purchased a TF Gold Edition Spitfire kit, with a Spektrum DX7 radio and an OS 91 surpass 4 stroke engine. There have been other TF spitfire builds, which show details of the build that the black and white photos from the instructions don't seem to explain very well. :
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3813717/anchors_3813717/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#3813717</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3874921/anchors_3874921/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#3874921</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671076</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rainerbanks.co.uk/spitfire/home.html</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
So this is my cramped work space, just checking to see that all of the parts are there. Inside the box are all of the bits of balsa and stamped parts, with the larger plastics vacuum molded tucked very nicely in its protected area/places inside. Included are a hefty instruction booklet, all hardware needed, and rolled plans.
Well after making sure all of the parts were there, Iunrolled the plans and held them down with some biology text books.
Now to decide on a few options:
-Flaps?
-Retracts?
-Supplied hinges?
-Covering?
It would be really nice to hear some feedback from experienced modelers. THANKS
</span>
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3813717/anchors_3813717/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#3813717</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3874921/anchors_3874921/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#3874921</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671076</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">http://www.rainerbanks.co.uk/spitfire/home.html</span><span style="font-size: larger; ">
So this is my cramped work space, just checking to see that all of the parts are there. Inside the box are all of the bits of balsa and stamped parts, with the larger plastics vacuum molded tucked very nicely in its protected area/places inside. Included are a hefty instruction booklet, all hardware needed, and rolled plans.
Well after making sure all of the parts were there, Iunrolled the plans and held them down with some biology text books.
Now to decide on a few options:
-Flaps?
-Retracts?
-Supplied hinges?
-Covering?
It would be really nice to hear some feedback from experienced modelers. THANKS
</span>
#3

Just read, re-read, and then re-read the instructions. Then read way ahead in the instructions to see what’s coming up. The Top Flite kit will fall right into place if your building surface is FLAT.
#6
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From: Augusta,
GA
<div>Hmm....Ok So I have to figure out how to post pictures....
<span style="font-size: larger; ">Totally on the ball with reading the instructions over and over, and then two steps ahead of the current one. I actually found a Pro building board that is perfect.
SO I started by making the skins as directed and cut out the stab formers and slots for the stab core. and pinned them to the sheet. The core was pretty tight, so I sanded the inside of the stab formers to accommodate.
</span>
</div>
<span style="font-size: larger; ">Totally on the ball with reading the instructions over and over, and then two steps ahead of the current one. I actually found a Pro building board that is perfect.
SO I started by making the skins as directed and cut out the stab formers and slots for the stab core. and pinned them to the sheet. The core was pretty tight, so I sanded the inside of the stab formers to accommodate.
</span>
</div>
#8
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From: Augusta,
GA
<span style="font-size: larger;">Ok totally going to build in flaps. I noticed a slight curve in the wing where the flap should go, but there is only one solid flap opposed to two separate parts that spread when the flaps are down, kind of like the flaps on a Corsair. Oh and are the flaps good at slowing the plane down for softer landings??
And why would you suggest mechanical retracts over the pneumatic ones? Are they lighter?
And the hinges are simple CA style that you cut from a sheet of hinge material.
Thanks for the suggestions.
</span>
And why would you suggest mechanical retracts over the pneumatic ones? Are they lighter?
And the hinges are simple CA style that you cut from a sheet of hinge material.
Thanks for the suggestions.
</span>
#10

My Feedback: (60)
ORIGINAL: EricsS2000
Now to decide on a few options:
-Flaps?
-Retracts?
-Supplied hinges?
-Covering?
Now to decide on a few options:
-Flaps?
-Retracts?
-Supplied hinges?
-Covering?
Retracts - Absolutely, pneumatic only for me. Mechanicals might be very hard to install in a Spit where the gear are retracting outward. Unless somebody makes a mechanical specifically designed for this purpose of course. Either way I much prefer routing air lines to routing linkages but that's just my opinion.
Supplied hinges - They would most likely be fine but I prefer the CA hinges from Radio South myself.
Covering - Fiberglass and epoxy resin, fiberglass and polyacrylic, silk and dope would be the options I would consider. Last resort, iron on plastic scuffed and painted.
#11

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From: Carrollton
Erics2000,
I'm certainly not doubting your flying ability, but if I may suggest, get some paper and trace out all of your wood parts and label them with the part number as well as wood type and thickness just in case the inevitible happens....[:@] That way you will be able to make replacement parts very easily.
Good luck with your build.
I'm certainly not doubting your flying ability, but if I may suggest, get some paper and trace out all of your wood parts and label them with the part number as well as wood type and thickness just in case the inevitible happens....[:@] That way you will be able to make replacement parts very easily.
Good luck with your build.
#12

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From: Portsmouth, NL, UNITED KINGDOM
Great Kit started that one a few years ago sadly new home and two new kids and the rest is history do remember well though i completed the top half of the fuselage all the stabilzer rudder centre wing section and all the wing frames i do have alot of the kit left in parts if you cock anything up or need some spares your welcome to them.
Regards John
Regards John
#13
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
ORIGINAL: Chad Veich
Mechanicals might be very hard to install in a Spit where the gear are retracting outward.
Mechanicals might be very hard to install in a Spit where the gear are retracting outward.
Ideally, I would use Pneumatics that were converted to electric like these:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...rticle_id=1294
#14
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From: MINSK, BELARUS
I used pneumatics retracts in my spitfire, but I should have installed the air tank in the wing instead of the fuselage: my plane was tail heavy and I had to put a lot of lead weights to counter-balanced.
#18
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From: Augusta,
GA
Sounds like a plan
ORIGINAL: P-Y
I used pneumatics retracts in my spitfire, but I should have installed the air tank in the wing instead of the fuselage: my plane was tail heavy and I had to put a lot of lead weights to counter-balanced.
I used pneumatics retracts in my spitfire, but I should have installed the air tank in the wing instead of the fuselage: my plane was tail heavy and I had to put a lot of lead weights to counter-balanced.
#19
I would also go with the Fiberglass and Retracts. Warbird colors is a great place to get paint from lots of choices. I used robart hinges on my Corsair and did not use the supplied ca hinges.
#20
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From: Woodville, WI
ORIGINAL: P-Y
I think I will give them a try for my Dc-3 retracts.
I think I will give them a try for my Dc-3 retracts.
I could be wrong, and it's been a while.. But I think it could be done.
But back to the Spitfire, D&L retracts probably won't work for this bird. If I remember the destructions correctly, you have to flip the air piston on the retracts so it's sticking out the back. Something like that anyway. So, the D&L system might not be a viable option.
#22

My Feedback: (42)
ORIGINAL: EricsS2000
<span style=''font-size: larger;''>Ok, so what do you think about the CJ retracts? </span>
<span style=''font-size: larger;''>Ok, so what do you think about the CJ retracts? </span>
Century Jet makes fantastic retracts, the valve you get with the kit isnt very good but is easily swapped for the robart, but the retracts themselves are top notch. Had them in my TF Sea Fury



