Hey Guy's,

I have been working on a Bruce Thorpe Delta Vortex with a few mods and Bruce as well as a few guy's from my club thought I should post the build here on RCU. I have posted several builds here in the past and while it is a little time consuming, I wouldn't mind doing one if there is enough interest. The build is in progress so let me know if there is in fact any interest...



Thanks

Mike

Please tell, what are the mods?

Yea, yeah. Don't forget, a picture is worth a thousand words !!!

Well lets post some pics and talk about the mods and hopefully I can build some interest in this bird.

First, let me say that while I have built many kits over the years from various manufactures, Bruce Thorpe of BTEmodels.com, designs and kits the finest kits on the market today. The Reaction 54 Jet has been a Joy to build and the Delta Vortex design can be built in just a few weeks. Every rib is hand cut and sanded to a perfect shape, the wood is some of the finest you will find. I hope to show how you can take a great kit and create a one of a kind plane.

First change is installing retracts.

In order to make room for the retracts and wheel wells, I had to move the original landing gear block forward ¾�. I also replaced it with a ½�x1/2� spruce spar for additional strength. This allowed me to move the retracts outward in the wing to improve stability on the ground. Next, from the pics you can see where I installed new retract rails 1-5/8� behind the original landing gear point. Then made new 1/8� lite ply doublers at ribs # w-1, w-2, w-3. To further strengthen the wing I continued the top and bottom wing center sheeting out to W-4.

Great looking Vortex Mike. I like the way you made the mods for the main gears. How do you plan to do the nose gear? Will there be any modifications needed to make it work or will it remain a fixed gear?

I am also in the process of building the delta vortex. I would be interested in any pictures and info you have time to post. What engine are you putting in it?

In order to fit the nose gear retract I moved the tank to just behind the the motorbox. The throttle and rudder servo's I moved back to what the plans call out as the radio compartment. Moving the servos back to this location also helps out with the CG. This also places the fuel tank closer to the CG. I normaly use a bladder style tank from Jett Engineering to help with the distance, but I thought I would try the IronBay regulator.

I finished the bottom sheeting today and am filling and sanding. Hopeing to have the bottom covered by tomorrow night.

I am using a OS 1.20 two stroke running a 14x12 prop. Great to here there is another Vortex on a building board... How far along are you in your build? Feel free to post pictures.

If you can, take time to read this build thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_13..._1/key_/tm.htm

Thanks for posting the above link. I had already read this one but maybe some others have not. I will be making a fiberglass cowl and adding a canopy. Covering the bottom today...

Great to hear that the build is coming along. I can not wait to see more photos and descriptions of the modifications you are making. Be sure to let us know how the cowl comes out. I would be very interested as I have wanted to do some fiberglass work but have never tried as of yet. Keep the photos coming as I too am thinking of building one of these.

It appears that the location of the retracts will be further back from the original location; was wondering if that will present rotational issues? Just asking, no critique here, thank you.

Roary,
Thats a great question regarding the rearward placement of the main retracts, and I had spent many hours considering this vary issue. I had found several builds where Vortex builders had moved them back as much as 2", yet known of them reported any rotational issues. Mine are moved back 1-5/8" I guess ultimatly I can only answer that question on the maiden flight.


Mike

Rcu issues AGAIN....unable to upload, frozen sceens, etc.......Let's try again!

The bottom covering is finished along with the three hatch panels. I also installed a hidden compartment accessed from the top containing the switch and schrader valve. I still need to install the Spring Air retracts and tubing. Next up will be a cool jet like canopy mod....

Some more pics showing the access panels and the basic hardware layout.

I am putting a DLE 20cc gas engine in mine. I hope it isn't too heavy. I was considering splitting the stationary horizontal fin (between the rudders) and hinging it to the trailing edge, and hooking it up to the elevons. I was thinking it may help for hovering. Any thoughts on this?

Also, I fly on a very rough grass field and I was contemplating building it as a tail dragger. How are your retacts working out, and would they hold up to a grass field?

Great question on hinging the trailing edge between the rudders.

In forward motion, air is traviling across the leading edge and towards the tip of the wing. This flow, or displacement of air, alows these control surfaces to be effective. When hovering the only air moving over the control surfaces is created from the prop wash. This wash has the strongest effect from the root of the wing spreading outward. This is why designers have moved the root of the ailerons closer towards the fuselage placing them in the prop wash and therefore more control for 3D maneuvers.

By hinging this center section you will see an increase in your elevator control and the twin rudders are already in the prop wash, so this leaves the aileron function of the elevons. The ailerons will receive some propwash, although not much and if you split this center elevator in two thus creating a mini elevon, the effect would be minimal at best since the control surface is right at the root of the wing.

Retracts, if designed and installed correctly will work great off of grass runways. Look at all the warbirds, nitro through giant scale that fly off of grass runways. The biggest problem I have seen is ARF manufactures skimping on the structural support, and the use of hot glue instead of epoxy. A well designed retract rail supported by ply doublers will displace the loads incurred from a small area out over a larger one.

They are hard to see in the pic below but both sides of ribs W-1, W-2 and W-3 have 1-8" ply doublers, thus spreading the load. Ultimatly the test is in the landings and while I have had my share of hard landings, I have never torn, ripped or pushed a retract from it's mount. I have BENT a few wire struts. LOL!

Hope this helps?

Mike

RCU problems again, unable to load images and screens locking up. Look at picture #4 above for ply doublers.....

RCU problems again, unable to load images and screens locking up. Look at picture #4 above for ply doublers.....

One other thing not shown in the pics, I recess my spruce rails down an additional 1/8" below the rib and epoxy on a U shaped 1/8" ply on top, locking the two spruce rails together. Also, it is important to place the end grain of the spruce rails horizontal. If you run the end grain verticle, the rail WILL split when screwing down your retract.

Of course I have an illistration of this but again the uploader function is DOWN!

Heres my ilistration on the retract rails and plywood top. Hope this helps!

Today I finished off the recessed switch and air schrader vale and then went to work on a canopy mod. First step was to find a canopy that had the basic shape I was looking for. After searching Towerhobbies web pages, I settled on a Venus 40 and a 46 size Reactor canopy. After looking at them both I decided to go with the reactor canopy.

First step is to cut down the canopy to achieve the sleek jet look. Then I trace the canopy bottom profile onto a foam block and remove foam untill the block matches the base of the canopy. Next I start tapering the foam towards the center untill this block fits completly inside the new canopy and just when you think your finished, theres more! I still needed to remove an additional 1/16" all the way around to account for the thickness of my balsa sheeting. Once satisfied with the fit, I glued this canopy base assembly to the top sheeting.

Once the glue dried, I applied the 1/16" balsa to the foam block, filled all the joints and built up a small radius fillet where the canopy base meets the wing sheeting. I also made a balsa tailpiece and bleded it in. While all that is drying, I painted the canopy. The result, well I think it was woth it, how about you guy's?

Few more pics....

Recessed hatch

Mock up pictures

A few more