Golberg Eagle 2 Build Questions
#1
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From: Stowe, VT
Hi guys - hope you can help. I don't remember having this much trouble building my first Eagle back in the 80s...
I was dry fitting the wing pieces, and it looks like the pre-slotted trailing edge is wrong. If I line up the outboard edge with the plans, by the time you get to the inboard edge, it is over 1/2" off from the plans. Here is the outboard edge:

And here is the inboard edge:

Any sage words of wisdom?
Thanks,
Erik
I was dry fitting the wing pieces, and it looks like the pre-slotted trailing edge is wrong. If I line up the outboard edge with the plans, by the time you get to the inboard edge, it is over 1/2" off from the plans. Here is the outboard edge:

And here is the inboard edge:

Any sage words of wisdom?
Thanks,
Erik
#2
Banned
It appears you may have the LE and TE pieces in the wrong orientation.
Hope noting is glued yet.
Try turning those pieces end for end. (180 degrees around)
Also check that you may have pieces for the right wing and different for the left wing.
Zor
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From: California City,
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Swapping them end-for-end isn't going to change the spacing. Also, both wing panels are identical in spacing, just mirrored.
Compare both LE and TE pieces with one another and confirm that the spacing is equal. Check that the provided sheeting and ailerons will extend far enough to fit if you build the wings as-is. If both are true and the spars are long enough I wouldn't worry too much, just build them as they fit. One of the many things that can happen to paper plans is shrinking or expanding due to temperature and humidity. I admit that 1/2" in the space of one wing panel is more than you would normally expect, but still within the realm of possibility.
Compare both LE and TE pieces with one another and confirm that the spacing is equal. Check that the provided sheeting and ailerons will extend far enough to fit if you build the wings as-is. If both are true and the spars are long enough I wouldn't worry too much, just build them as they fit. One of the many things that can happen to paper plans is shrinking or expanding due to temperature and humidity. I admit that 1/2" in the space of one wing panel is more than you would normally expect, but still within the realm of possibility.
#5
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<span style="color: #ff0000">Red inserts by Zor
</span>
I am not arguing ; just thinking in writing.
It is easy enough to fiddle around and compare the notch spacing with the drawing.
Zor
</span>
ORIGINAL: Tarasdad
Swapping them end-for-end isn't going to change the spacing. Also, both wing panels are identical in spacing, just mirrored.
<span style="color: #ff0000">Yes both wing panels right and left are symmetrically identical.
We cannot tell by the pictures if the spacing in one wing side is equally spaced.
We often see the ribs near the root being closer than the ribs further away.
That is why I suggested to check that. </span>
Compare both LE and TE pieces with one another and confirm that the spacing is equal.
<span style="color: #ff0000">The LE spacing would be the same as the TE spacing and it is if all the ribs are parallel which is what we expect. However if the spacing is not the same and each wing has closer spacing near the wing root then using the right wind piece on the left side might still match the spacing but would put the piece upside down. This may affect the contour. Like the LE may have a preshape that has to be correct. </span>
Check that the provided sheeting and ailerons will extend far enough to fit if you build the wings as-is. If both are true and the spars are long enough I wouldn't worry too much, just build them as they fit. One of the many things that can happen to paper plans is shrinking or expanding due to temperature and humidity. I admit that 1/2" in the space of one wing panel is more than you would normally expect, but still within the realm of possibility.
<span style="color: #ff0000">I just cannot see the paper drawing having changed by 1/2 inch.
Perhaps the wrong LE and TE have been put in this kit ? That kind of thing has been seen before. </span>
Swapping them end-for-end isn't going to change the spacing. Also, both wing panels are identical in spacing, just mirrored.
<span style="color: #ff0000">Yes both wing panels right and left are symmetrically identical.
We cannot tell by the pictures if the spacing in one wing side is equally spaced.
We often see the ribs near the root being closer than the ribs further away.
That is why I suggested to check that. </span>
Compare both LE and TE pieces with one another and confirm that the spacing is equal.
<span style="color: #ff0000">The LE spacing would be the same as the TE spacing and it is if all the ribs are parallel which is what we expect. However if the spacing is not the same and each wing has closer spacing near the wing root then using the right wind piece on the left side might still match the spacing but would put the piece upside down. This may affect the contour. Like the LE may have a preshape that has to be correct. </span>
Check that the provided sheeting and ailerons will extend far enough to fit if you build the wings as-is. If both are true and the spars are long enough I wouldn't worry too much, just build them as they fit. One of the many things that can happen to paper plans is shrinking or expanding due to temperature and humidity. I admit that 1/2" in the space of one wing panel is more than you would normally expect, but still within the realm of possibility.
<span style="color: #ff0000">I just cannot see the paper drawing having changed by 1/2 inch.
Perhaps the wrong LE and TE have been put in this kit ? That kind of thing has been seen before. </span>
It is easy enough to fiddle around and compare the notch spacing with the drawing.
Zor
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From: Hoodsport, WA
To me (FWIW) the plans look a little out of scale for the actual building materials. They look like the copy came out a tad small. I say this because in your pic, the rear of the trailing edge appears to be right with the plan sheet, but the ribs are longer (front-to-back) than the plan sheet and brings the front of the leading edge beyond the plan sheet. Is this the case, or is it just the angle of the pic that's got me confused?<div>
</div><div>The Eagle 2 shows a wingspan of 63". Measure the wing panel's span on the plan and see if the wing panels add up to this measurement. If not, then the problem lies in the scale of the plans. If you come up with a 63" span, then the trailing edge stock was notched incorrectly. I see by the build manual that the leading edge is in fact a length of 5/16" dowel, not is NOT notched.</div><div>
</div><div>I'm with Tarasdad and MinnFlyer. If the trailing edge was notched incorrectly, placing the inboard (root) ribs where the notches are at present will not make a difference. Just make sure the the notches are in the same place on bot pieces of trailing edge stock.</div><div>
</div><div>Looks like a fun build, enjoy!</div>
</div><div>The Eagle 2 shows a wingspan of 63". Measure the wing panel's span on the plan and see if the wing panels add up to this measurement. If not, then the problem lies in the scale of the plans. If you come up with a 63" span, then the trailing edge stock was notched incorrectly. I see by the build manual that the leading edge is in fact a length of 5/16" dowel, not is NOT notched.</div><div>
</div><div>I'm with Tarasdad and MinnFlyer. If the trailing edge was notched incorrectly, placing the inboard (root) ribs where the notches are at present will not make a difference. Just make sure the the notches are in the same place on bot pieces of trailing edge stock.</div><div>
</div><div>Looks like a fun build, enjoy!</div>
#8
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From: Stowe, VT
Thanks for all the great responses, everyone! I put a tape measure to the plans and to the dry fitted wing, and indeed the plans are just not quite full scale. When I did the tail, it didn't really show up, but with the length of the wing it is really apparent.
#9
Banned
Jester369,
I am beginning to wonder if you have an original kit and drawings in the manufacturer's box and bought from a dealer or if you bought this kit from some individual or perhaps through eBay or similar.
I am just thinking that perhaps the drawings are not original and have been copied slightly out of size.
Like if not bought from a LHS the original owner may have had a copy of the dawings made and kept the original drawing.
Just puzzled.
Zor
I am beginning to wonder if you have an original kit and drawings in the manufacturer's box and bought from a dealer or if you bought this kit from some individual or perhaps through eBay or similar.
I am just thinking that perhaps the drawings are not original and have been copied slightly out of size.
Like if not bought from a LHS the original owner may have had a copy of the dawings made and kept the original drawing.
Just puzzled.
Zor
#11
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Let's not make this out to be some big conspiracy theory here. As was stated above by others, this is quite common in kits, and it seems to happen a bit more in Goldberg kits for some reason. Jester, it's nothing to worry about and like I said it's common. In your case were you have a notched part like your leading and trailing edge pieces build them to the parts. Start building with the parts at the wing root rib and then start building out. If they don't match the plans don't panic. Simply keep building using the parts to align everything. As you build make sure your ribs stay parallel to each other and that they are square to the leading and trailing edge.
It will build just fine this way.
Ken</p>
#12
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From: Lacona, NY
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
While GGoldberg makes some of the best designs ever, they don't have the most accurate plans. Just build the ing with the ribs 90* to their trailing edge notches and you'll be fine
While GGoldberg makes some of the best designs ever, they don't have the most accurate plans. Just build the ing with the ribs 90* to their trailing edge notches and you'll be fine
Kind of like building a BUSA, the drawings aren't exact. When you cut out the parts and pin them to the plans- most parts don't fit exactly to what's drawn on the plans. CAD drawings I heard are more exact.
Again RCKen said it best, you're OK.
Pete
#13
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ORIGINAL: Jester369
Original kit, manufacturers box, bought from Tower. I doubt it's a knock-off.
Original kit, manufacturers box, bought from Tower. I doubt it's a knock-off.
It is just "so bizarre"
Like someone said, make sure the ribs are square with the trailing edge and that both wings are symmetrically opposite and you will have nice wings.
Best of luck
Zor
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From: California City,
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Great work so far! You're going to love how it comes together. The Eagle 63 was the very first kit I ever built, and I fully intend to build another. Had more fun flying that than any other aircraft I had.
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From: Metamora,
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Built 2 of these this winter. first one was was a newer kit, had the same problem just kinda ignored the plans. the second one was an older kit from the 80s and it was fine
#21
Banned
No matter the method used ; the end results is what counts.
A model well glued and well covered resist damages in a poor landing.
Your model is coming along beautifully.
I join with all others to congratulate you on a job coming along just fine.
Zor
A model well glued and well covered resist damages in a poor landing.
Your model is coming along beautifully.
I join with all others to congratulate you on a job coming along just fine.
Zor
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From: OZark,
MO
Hi
Good eye! And nice work so far. This was a club favorite when I started and still one of the better trainers around.
When I built mine the club guys had me leave in the knock outs for the windows in and fill in the front windshield with 1/4" balsa. Cut monokote the same shape as the windows black or silver works. Iron the windows on after the color scheme you use is on. This makes for a much more robust wing mount area also better water (and oil) tightness around the windows. We did a bit of float flying in that club.
I have printed hundreds of BLUE LINE prints and what you are experiencing aside from the weather related factors is "BLUE LINE CREAP". The paper actually slips a bit as it goes through the rollers during exposure to intense light.
The original plan is ink on mylar and it is laid over BLUE LINE paper then the pair is run through a light and roller system. The Ink shades the print paper and that remains, all the clear areas burn off. The paper has to slip a bit in the best case scenario.
Good eye! And nice work so far. This was a club favorite when I started and still one of the better trainers around.
When I built mine the club guys had me leave in the knock outs for the windows in and fill in the front windshield with 1/4" balsa. Cut monokote the same shape as the windows black or silver works. Iron the windows on after the color scheme you use is on. This makes for a much more robust wing mount area also better water (and oil) tightness around the windows. We did a bit of float flying in that club.
I have printed hundreds of BLUE LINE prints and what you are experiencing aside from the weather related factors is "BLUE LINE CREAP". The paper actually slips a bit as it goes through the rollers during exposure to intense light.
The original plan is ink on mylar and it is laid over BLUE LINE paper then the pair is run through a light and roller system. The Ink shades the print paper and that remains, all the clear areas burn off. The paper has to slip a bit in the best case scenario.
#24
I built the eagle for kicks last year when an ARFr friend gave it to me. One thing I did was change the rubber band attached wing to dowel in front andbolts in back and ran the elevator pushrod straight out the back. Streamlines things a bit and makes covering easier. Other than that, it's stock and a nice flyer. I have super tiger 40 in it and it's plenty of power.
#25
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From: Stowe, VT
Ok, so I had hoped to get a lot more done on day 2, but life happens! The picture is terrible (phonecam) and makes it look like the wing is horribly twisted, but I assure you it is nice and flat!
I'm going to do some filling and smoothing, and I still have to glass the center, but it's pretty much done.
What are people's thoughts on CA hinges? I've never used them before but they came with the kit.
Up next, fuselage!
I'm going to do some filling and smoothing, and I still have to glass the center, but it's pretty much done.What are people's thoughts on CA hinges? I've never used them before but they came with the kit.
Up next, fuselage!




O.S. .40FP and a Futaba Conquest 4 channel radio. Never crashed the Second one.