thank you charles i will keep the pics rollin........its 132.8 inch wing span....good thing it comes apart!<div>      mike.</div>

here are the pics of her desk.its black walnut and curly maple.

this is a pic of the moose i carved for our local moose lodge. they wanted a new bullitan board made to hang pics on...it was 4 feet by 8 feet with corkboard in it..like i said i dont do simple so i wanted to add the moose to the middle. i also made a plaque that said moose lodge 426 to hang from the bottom but we plased it over the door in the hallway where the frame went..they liked it alot so now they want another frame built to hang beside the first one.then im going to build a box to put the moose in with scenery around it. ill get pics of that when itd finished

these two pics are former ff7 that was not the right size.when i lay it over the plans in its position it was nearly 9/16 wider than the plans called for. i cut 1/4 inch each way of the center line making it 1/2 inch shorter overall and glued it back together.i had to make a new hole in the middle for the retract cylendar and move the slots for the hardwood berrers and make new slots for the nose wheele door.i added a 1/4 by 1/4 balsa stick to the top edge of ff7 to stiffin it back up. if i didnt do this it would have made the shape of my cockpit area have a noticable angle instead of a smoothe rounded curve.....

these are pics of the lower chord i pre bent them in a jig i made from a chunk of red oak.i soked them in windex inside my high dollar stick soaked made from a 1 1/2 pvc about 40 inches long and capped the bottom and a screw cap on top .works great . the pland call for 2 1/8 by 3/8 stringers to make the chord and i didnt see this till i bent 3 1/8 by 1/4 stringers.oh well same idea different way of thinking. i used a micromiter to keep my spaceing between formers and spot glued them and checked them with a square.then spot glued the other two the same way.then put the clips on and layed the plane on its side and run my thin ca the length of the chord..

i forgot this one...

these two are of former ff27 on the tail..i glued it in place before i noticed it needed to be cut to allow passage of the upper ramp door .now i have to do it the hard way

now that i looked at it again i may be able to use the section i cut off to replace the missing r26 that wasnt in my kit

Is this the lathe you got? http://www.grizzly.com/products/Comb...tachment/G0516
Oh howi could be able to afford http://www.futaba-rc.com/systems/18mz.htmlThis would be great with all the extras that could be added to this bird.
Jordan

yes thats the one....im making my own whels with it ....try to make them look like real herc wheels with lug nuts

i was looking at my nose gear again and noticed that the retract does not match the plans. pics 1 and 2 show the pivot point marked by my pencil in the center of the strut . but on the retract itself its a good 1/2 inch from center. pic 3 shows the retract in the position as it is on the plans. pic 4 is the result of the pivot point not in the same location.my wheels will be in the nose cone where i dont want them.pic 5 and pic 3 are switched sorry pic 5 is in the right position and pic 3 is where it would have to be to get my wheels centered in the wheel well..making the wheels to far back...my solution to keep the wheel forward and still fit is to angle the retract berrers to the angle in pics 6 and 7 as you can see makes my rotation proper again....this is confusing.....now all i have to do is unglue the berrers that should be a chore...

forget the 3 and 5 thing i was right the first time dang it

sorry for the lack of posts.....its been a busy summer outdoors. i plan to start on my plane again soon with pics of progress to follow.