Jim Clausen

The lawns took presidence over working on the Tipo but I did get the glassing done on the center of the wing. I epoxied a piece of 3/4 ounce glass from one wheel well to the other on the bottom of the wing and matched it on the top of the wing. Doxilla's suggestion about using masking tape to get the edges straight and where they layed down was a good tip. I think it worked well. The wing weight is 12 and 3/4 ounces as it sits now, including aielerons.
I have not glassed any of the control surfaces and and debating whether to do so or not. I might just put a coat of finishing resin on them and sand them out for prime for paint.
Pictures attached.

I posted an incorrect weight for the wings and aielerons, it is actually 1 pound 12 and 3/4 ounces. My apologies.
Jim

Jim Clausen

I spent the morning trying to come up with a scheme to get all of my servos located. These are JR 4131 servos and are standard in size. I have two hi tech mini servos, one for the retracts and one for the in flight adjustable carburator. My main issue is that the 4131 for the elevator impares the rudder pull pull setup. So for today I am leaving it alone while my brain cramp dissolves. Maybe tomorrow.
Jim

hrrcflyer

Jim,

Try raising the rudder servo up a little so the elevator servo arm will work below the rudder servo arm. I've had to do this on a couple of planes and it works very well. Kep up the great work......

David

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

That's right Jim,

you offset the height of the servos so that the linkages don't interfere. In the Tipo, if you keep the control horns as shown in the plans (i.e., with the rudder horn toward the bottom of the surface), you will want to locate your rudder servo lower (higher in the rails/tray when the model is inverted) than the elevator servo. So for that arrangement, you should locate your elevator servo toward the rear of the bay offset to one side so that the linkage is centered on the fuse line (I recommend a 4-40 ball link). The rudder servo would go in front of this centered on the tray and "raised" off the tray (1/4" would be fine). You can accomplish this with some 1/4" x 3/8" ply or hardwood rails. If you use three standard rails, you can double the rail in the center area where the rudder P-P servo will be located. The elevator servo should fit nicely on the "one-ply" (1/4" rather than 1/2") just to the side provided you don't make the double rails too wide.

The retract and throttle servos can go in front on the 3-4 rail pair on either side of the rudder servo which is where you'll want them anyway. You talked about "in flight mixture" servo. If you really have one of these carbs with adjustable high end needle, you'll need another HiTec mini. I would locate the two carb servos close to the fuse sides with the retract servo in the middle. You could optionally mount the retract servo and valve on a separate tray since the valve will have to be mounted somehow. Some valves can be "ring" mounted (e.g. Robart) to a piece of vertical ply by drilling a hole and attaching it like one would a fill valve on the side of the fuse.

I'm sure I attached a picture of my basic four servo layout earlier in the thread. Note that since the retracts in that model are electric (Multicons), there is no retract servo (only an amp). The fourth servo on the side is for steering which can't be done P-P on the Multicons. For P-P steering setups, you can use the center mounted rudder servo on the inner servo arm holes - works nicely by placing some nylon sleeve leads for the P-P where needed around the wing LE former (F2 I believe).

Take pics! One picture is worth 1000 words as they say.

David.

P.S. The servo layout is in post #21:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10476598

Note that I used a low profile elevator servo to allow the fit on its side for linear elevator action. This helps to avoid elevator surface differential on deflection.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

By the way,

if you choose to run the rudder P-P lines out the top side of the stab so that you have centered P-P action on the rudder (not a bad idea but not as cosmetic), you would naturally invert the position of the rudder and elevator servos. You would also in this case drop the rudder servo low and raise the elevator servo (when inverted) so that the elevator pushrod would run lower in the fuse draft compared to the P-P rudder lines.

This setup has the drawback that you have to run P-P steering wires around the elevator servo though so not my preference. For this kind of setup, a seprate steering servo in between the wheel and the retract body is a nice arrangement. Works better on single sided steering arms with a flat "wing" servo unless you can spare some space in the tank area for the verrtically mounted mini servo to protrude into the tank bay. In the Tipo you need to bring that fuel tank down so the flat servo works better in my opinion.

I'd go with the standard setup with the rudder servo mounted in the "middle" of the servo pool - so to speak. The height of the rudder servo also helps to lead the P-P steering wires to the retract body which is roughly at the same draft height.

David.

Jim Clausen

I plan on making an outline of the area that is available tomorrow. This will allow me to air out some issues and will post the results. Thanks to all for their suggestions.
Jim

Jim Clausen

Well, here is what I think is a solution to the servo issue. I have elevated and mounted the servo for the rudder and mounted the servo for the elevator. I plan to have my arrow shaft go between the pull pull cables. I have also mounted two of the three or four rails in the fuselage for mounting the servo tray. The pictures show their location. The holes are match drilled for the servo tray so that the tray and servos can be easily removed. I am waiting for the retracts to get here so that I can mount the nose gear to verify the location for all of the cables. Just being cautious.
Jim

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Jim,

any updates on your Tipo build?

David.

Jim Clausen

David and those who are following,
Encountered a little kickup last weekend, blood clots in the lungs. After a stay in the hospital I am out and sluggishly going along.
I had expecetd Robart to have shipped my retrects back to me while I was in the hospital. Called them today and they said that they forgot to ship them out to me. This is the second time this has happened. Not too sure about those folks. They now claim that the retracts will ship out today. Tomorrow will tell.
Good news is I received the adapter that allows the OS header to fiit up to the Rossi. That seems to be working out okay.
I will start back at a slow pace since my brain and my hands seem to be at odds at the moment.
No further progress.
Jim

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Jim,

I am very sorry to hear about these recent events. Blood clots are no small matter. I empathize deeply at the moment since my little daughter has been in hospital this entire month for a similar complication. She has one too and will be on blood thinners for several weeks.

I hope all works out for the best and you get your strength back.

Sincerely, David.

Jim Clausen

David,
Very sorry to hear that your daughter is going through this same thing. For me it has just slowed me down and I have very little energy. Hope she gets well soon.
Managed to get a little done yesterday and today. I had ot put the right side of the chin on a diet to get the header to clear the side of the fuselage chin. Now that the chin is cleared I will reshape the fuselage to look correct on both sides.
I also got a tracking number on my retracts. It says that they will be delivered today. Proof is in the pudding.
Have a good day to all,
Jim

Jim Clausen

Well, the retracts did in fact arrive. I have installed the nose gear and think I have solved the axle rotating during the retraction. I still need to shorten the nose gear axle about 1/2 inches so that the nose wheel clears the F2 bulkhead. If I have the energy tomorrow I will push on a little and contrive a way to cover the retract well with a removable hatch of some sort.
One of my questions is, do I completely seal off the retract area on the inside to prevent air flow into the fuselage? This idea just does not sound right to me. I do not recall any of my flying friends in the late 60's saying anything about this. Since all of my pattern planes were tail draggers I have no experience with this.
Jim

Jim Clausen

It is still a slow go on this project until I get my strength back. I did manage to get the Tipo up on stance today so that I can check the incidence between the wing and horizontal stab. I think that I am right on the mark as far as incidence goes.
I also threw the bird on the scale, engine, wing, retracts, horizontal stab, vertical fin have a combined weight of 5 pounds and no ounces. I only think I am doing okay weight wise at this time. The final bell has not rang just yet.
Jim

Jim Clausen

I am having some difficulty with the installation of the retractable nose gear. I have it installed and can get it to retract but the axel is rotating during retraction. I am of the opinion that the wheel will rotate when retracted and not deploy when landing. I thought that I had that solved by adding a nylon washer between the steering arm and the retract body, but that does not seem to work. I have not hooked up the lines from the servo at this time but it looks like when the gear retracts the tension on the lines from the servo will become slack and allow rotation. I know that there is a solution to this but it just is not coming clear to me. HELP please.
I have contrived a way to have a hatch that covers the front wheel well so that I can access the retract for either repair or for adjustment.
Am I over thinking this issue?????
Jim

Jim Clausen

Today I searched the web and found where someone made a spring that attaches to the retract body and I copied that design somewhat and it works okay. I will modify the one I made today and make it a little better. At least I have a solution for the retract rotating upon retraction.
I would probably never came up with this idea alone.
I will post a picture of the final spring when it is done.
Thanks,
Jim

Jim Clausen

This is a picture of the spring assembly that I created using .020 piano wire. It required a hole be drilled and tapped for a 4-40 screw which I cut off so that it did not interfere with the strut rotation. Picture attached.
Jim

hrrcflyer

Hello David,

I was just cruising through this build thread and ran across your post. I sincerely hope your daughter gets through her health issue's real soon. I will keep her in my prayers. Jim, the same goes for you as well. I hope you are back up to speed with a clean bill of health real soon.

David

Jim Clausen

I have started the glassing of the fuselage. I have not had the pleasure of doing a surface with this many contour curves, so this will take some time. I am very low on energy due to my recent illness but will press on as energy levels allow.
I thought I could do one half of the fuse with one piece of cloth. This is not going to happen. As a result there are many areas that need some serious sanding to get the excess resin and loose cloth back to the shape of the fuse. I will report on this process as it evolves.
Jim

Jim Clausen

I am still working on the glassing of the fuselage, This might take some time. The bottom of the wing is now glassed with .5 ounce glass using polyester resin. I am going to try to get the top of the wing glassed this week. The flat surfaces of the wing are much easier to glass than the fuselage. I am waiting for some sandpaper to be shipped in to complete the fuselage sanding.
Thats about all for now.
Jim

Jim Clausen

Well, the wings are glassed and what is left is some of that fun sanding. Then it looks like I need to fill the glass cloth with some wood filler and then some more of that fun sanding. Before that takes place I need to build the lower fuselage extensoin on to the wing and get that fared in.
The faring on the fuselage where it meets the wing will be another task to do and maybe with some luck I can start on that next week.
Once I get the fuselage sanded down I will attach the horizontal stabilizer and create fillets for that attachment.
I know this seems like I am taking forever to complete this but bare with me. I should eventually get there.
Jim

Jim Clausen

The wing is now sanded out and ready for the filler material. The weight of the wing is 1 pound 12 ounces as it sits right now. Most of the fuselage has been rough sanded but still needs more work. I might have to put another coat of resin on the fuselage to get the loose glass fibers to lay down and be able to sand out.
It has been like forever since I have tried this process and memory comming back is slow.
Thats all for now.
Jim

Jim Clausen

Yesterday I managed to get the wing farings attached and some triangle stock holding them in place. After a Doctors appointment today I will start the creation of the fillet radius on each side using my brown micro baloons and 30 minute epoxy. I plan on making this a three day affair. I am going to use a 1 inch radius for the entire length using an old aerogolss bottle as a tool at the finish coat. Wish me luck.
Jim

Jim Clausen

After several days I finally managed to get the wing faring radii looking like I think that they should be. My idea about using the Aerogloss bottle as a form did not work. I wound up making a screed (like concrete workers use on forms) from an old credit card. This seemed to work okay. I followed up with an alcohol wiping with the fingers. I then sanded the radii with sandpaper attached to a piece of 3/4 inch PVC pipe to a shape that looks right. THis was followed by hand sanding with finer grits.

The horizontal elevator is now in place. This took a lot of patience on my behalf in as much as there are 5 axes to deal with to get it in place correctly. My measurements say I am as close as I can get it. I will create fillet radii later on for the horizontal elevator on both sides top and bottom.

The lower wing center faring is made and requries more sanding and a fillet radii also.

Today I hope to apply a thin coating of polyester resin to the control surfaces and when set I will sand them out.

Not too much more to report. Pictures attached.
Jim

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Good work Jim
5 axes... very funny! As far as I know there are only 3 axes in geometry [X(]bc

Zor

[/quote]

Ican think of six ( 6 ) adjustments to properly locate and perhaps glue a piece in position.
Not all six are always needed.

1- Forward or aft position,
2- Up or down position,
3- Left or right position,

Once in proper position, the orientation in . . . .
4- pitch,
5- yaw,
6- roll

Example ___

Locating a stabilizer . . . .
1- Distance from the main wings.
2- Higher up on the fuselage rear end (perhaps on top or even somewhere on the fin)or lower down (perhaps at the bottom) or in between.
3- Assure that both sides are symetrical to the fuselage.
4- Adjust the angle for the decalage to the main wings (incidence angle of the stab).
5- Equal distance of the stab spar(s) to the wing tips.
6- The stab plane (geometric plane) parallel to the main wings.

OK guys andgals . . . . It is still six locating adjustments before fixing in place permanently.

Cheers,

Zor