***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
#1052
RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
My guess is take a look at the lastpublishedlist. Cub Man usually keeps it up to date from what I've seen. Check post #949 on page 38.
Check post #949 on page 38.
Check post #949 on page 38.
#1053
Join Date: Jul 2007
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
G-26 on the yellow 1/4 scale, has hitec HS -635 servos
GT-80 on the 1/3 scale swingin a 26 x 8 prop on land, 24 x 6 on the water. Hitec HS- 645 on all surfaces but the rudder. The pull-pull on the rudder I have a Hitec digital servo , something like 240 in/onces. The yellow 1/4 scale has never flown off land only water and snow.
Wild Bill
GT-80 on the 1/3 scale swingin a 26 x 8 prop on land, 24 x 6 on the water. Hitec HS- 645 on all surfaces but the rudder. The pull-pull on the rudder I have a Hitec digital servo , something like 240 in/onces. The yellow 1/4 scale has never flown off land only water and snow.
Wild Bill
#1054
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Mississauga,
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
ORIGINAL: wildbills21
G-26 on the yellow 1/4 scale, has hitec HS -635 servos
GT-80 on the 1/3 scale swingin a 26 x 8 prop on land, 24 x 6 on the water. Hitec HS- 645 on all surfaces but the rudder. The pull-pull on the rudder I have a Hitec digital servo , something like 240 in/onces. The yellow 1/4 scale has never flown off land only water and snow.
Wild Bill
G-26 on the yellow 1/4 scale, has hitec HS -635 servos
GT-80 on the 1/3 scale swingin a 26 x 8 prop on land, 24 x 6 on the water. Hitec HS- 645 on all surfaces but the rudder. The pull-pull on the rudder I have a Hitec digital servo , something like 240 in/onces. The yellow 1/4 scale has never flown off land only water and snow.
Wild Bill
Bill,
Why do you change prop on 1/3 scale when on land or on water with same engine, unless engine is switched also. I have pull pull on both rudder and elevators on this Cub i'm restoring presently. So would you suggest using same servos as yours or should I look at different ones coz i'll be doing Land, water and snow with this Cub. My engine is Fuji 64 EI....
#1055
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
The metal gear HS-645MG will be more than sufficiant for all surfaces on a 1/3 scale Cub. 107 oz-in @ 4.8V and 133oz-in @ 6V are the specs. The one I have on the rudder is a bit of overkill but I had it left over from another project so I used it. I switch props to a smaller one on the water because I need the clearance. The prop is too close to the water with the larger prop, way too much spray. Water is not real friendly to wood or carbon props.
Wild Bill
Wild Bill
#1056
RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
On my 1/3 Cub I am using HS-645's on all the flying surfaces without any issues. I am running 6 volts as well.
I am running a YDA-56 with a 22x8, I had a 24x6 on when I broke the prop on a nose over in high grass. The 24x6 was a better prop for this engine. Need to pick up a new prop now that I think about it.
Later!!
Anthony
I am running a YDA-56 with a 22x8, I had a 24x6 on when I broke the prop on a nose over in high grass. The 24x6 was a better prop for this engine. Need to pick up a new prop now that I think about it.
Later!!
Anthony
#1057
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Great, so it's settled that HS 645MGs are the servos for these big Cubs..
You guys won't believe that this one came with all FS 3003/4 standing bb servos in her!, n guy says it has flown like the way I got.....daaahhhh!!
So With Fuji 64 EI, what prop would you guys recommend....23x8 or 24x12?
You guys won't believe that this one came with all FS 3003/4 standing bb servos in her!, n guy says it has flown like the way I got.....daaahhhh!!
So With Fuji 64 EI, what prop would you guys recommend....23x8 or 24x12?
#1060
Join Date: Sep 2006
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Props4ever follow the mfg's recommendation's. And be sure to take real good care of the engine, they don't make them any longer. And the last time I looked I couldnot find any parts.
#1061
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Ok Robert, it's going to be another rare working engine in my fleet, other one is Sach 4.2 70cc gasser in my Nosen Mustang.
Progress update:
Rudders new tip was made last night by laminating 2 x 3/32" sheets ans 1 1/16" sheet to get the size needed for the thickness of the rudder.....
I used original tip as source of template to make newer one, it took couple hours to do it but i got it done and then its was glued to the rudder's main structure.
After the top part, I focused on fabricating the lower portion, it was built by using left over strip from new trailing edge of the stabilizer, it was trimmed, cut to right size and angle before it was glued on the frame.
Once both main top n bottom sections were built n glued on, I moved on the adding reinforcements to all the older joints by adding triangular hard balsa fillets between connecting braces and leading edge of this rudder.
Then some trusses were also added between leading and trailing edges in the sections between connecting braces to give more strength to whole rudder structure. In the end bit more sanding was done, still some ares are left to smooth out, but I will do the before recovering it.
Progress update:
Rudders new tip was made last night by laminating 2 x 3/32" sheets ans 1 1/16" sheet to get the size needed for the thickness of the rudder.....
I used original tip as source of template to make newer one, it took couple hours to do it but i got it done and then its was glued to the rudder's main structure.
After the top part, I focused on fabricating the lower portion, it was built by using left over strip from new trailing edge of the stabilizer, it was trimmed, cut to right size and angle before it was glued on the frame.
Once both main top n bottom sections were built n glued on, I moved on the adding reinforcements to all the older joints by adding triangular hard balsa fillets between connecting braces and leading edge of this rudder.
Then some trusses were also added between leading and trailing edges in the sections between connecting braces to give more strength to whole rudder structure. In the end bit more sanding was done, still some ares are left to smooth out, but I will do the before recovering it.
#1063
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Thanks Wild Bill,
Since my Mustang uses 24 x 12 on 70cc I was hoping that I could get away with this engine also on with props since I have 3 spare ones.
Well guys tonight ill be making vertical fin/stabilizer for the Cub, might tackle one of two elevator's also. I'm loving restoring this model...feels great!!...
Since my Mustang uses 24 x 12 on 70cc I was hoping that I could get away with this engine also on with props since I have 3 spare ones.
Well guys tonight ill be making vertical fin/stabilizer for the Cub, might tackle one of two elevator's also. I'm loving restoring this model...feels great!!...
#1064
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Well it's 449Am here n i'm about to crash.....
Fin was completely fabricated by laminating all the wood sense i'm out of 3/8" x 1/2" sticks, so it took a lot of time to make this but results are excellent.
Once fin was built, I took both Fin n Stabilizer in the garage to dry fit them on the fuselage.
Well you can see how the fit, I mean fin was held with 3 small clamps but stabilizer rested on the fuselage longerons....
If you guys see any issue, pls give ur feedback as to me it seems as fin was tilted forward a bit, but I donno coz I have no plans to follow through.
#1067
RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Hey, I've got a question for anyone that has used the Robart L/G on their 1/4 Cub. I want to use springs since O-rings don't last at all in these parts. Probably the ozone or something, we've got bad air! Does anyone now what springs to use and where you might get them?
Thanks in advance!
David
#1069
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RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Have you tried shock cord ? I use I/8 " shock cord and it lasts for a long time.. You buy it by the ft. ..It's cheaper than O rings and works very well...You adjust the length you need tie a knot and then CA the knot . It will last till you cut it off...
#1072
RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
What I have is the stuff used for tents for instance. It's like bungee chord, elastic inside wrapped by a cloth like covering (am I explaining this right?). It can be purchased through places like REI where I got mine. Really cheap! I put some on my H9 Sopwith Camel and it's been working good although I don't have that many flights on it.
#1074
RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Put on the 1/8" shock cord. I made the loops about the width of four fingers (my fingers that is) and did two wraps on the L/G. May be a little tight. I made the front set a little large than the rear so I can take the rear off if it's too much... uh... which I'm sure it's gonna be!
Thanks bikerbc! It's done! Now to finish up the rest of the plane!
Thanks bikerbc! It's done! Now to finish up the rest of the plane!