Robart hinge pin installation
#1
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From: Freedom, PA
What do you use to acheive the taper from the barbed shank to the nuckle when installing hinge pins? I'm using the 1/8 inch hinge shank and have never found anything that matches the taper (from !/8" to 3/16' over 3/8" long) to neatly drill the hole that recieves the hinge? This is a popular hinge method & I assume that I'm just unlucky, I've tried stone grinding cones, carbide burr's, reammers, ect, and cannot find the right tool to give me a nice neat tapered hole that matches the pin! Thank You for you help.
#2
I have encountered the same problem but came up with a different solution. Instead of tapering the hole I sand a half circle into each side of the surface totally exposing the knuckle of the hinge. This makes gluing quite simple, because at no point will the knuckle encounter glue, and the hinge will seat all the way into the surface.
Here is a photo of the hinges in a flat surface. It works with a beveled surface too.
My tool of choice is a hand held dremel sanding drum... It is just a tiny bit wider than the hinge. Only takes a few minutes to compete a surface just rubbing the bit acros the hinge pocket.
SunDevilPilot
Here is a photo of the hinges in a flat surface. It works with a beveled surface too.
My tool of choice is a hand held dremel sanding drum... It is just a tiny bit wider than the hinge. Only takes a few minutes to compete a surface just rubbing the bit acros the hinge pocket.
SunDevilPilot
#3

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ORIGINAL: SunDevilPilot
I have encountered the same problem but came up with a different solution. Instead of tapering the hole I sand a half circle into each side of the surface totally exposing the knuckle of the hinge. This makes gluing quite simple, because at no point will the knuckle encounter glue, and the hinge will seat all the way into the surface.
Here is a photo of the hinges in a flat surface. It works with a beveled surface too.
My tool of choice is a hand held dremel sanding drum... It is just a tiny bit wider than the hinge. Only takes a few minutes to compete a surface just rubbing the bit acros the hinge pocket.
SunDevilPilot
I have encountered the same problem but came up with a different solution. Instead of tapering the hole I sand a half circle into each side of the surface totally exposing the knuckle of the hinge. This makes gluing quite simple, because at no point will the knuckle encounter glue, and the hinge will seat all the way into the surface.
Here is a photo of the hinges in a flat surface. It works with a beveled surface too.
My tool of choice is a hand held dremel sanding drum... It is just a tiny bit wider than the hinge. Only takes a few minutes to compete a surface just rubbing the bit acros the hinge pocket.
SunDevilPilot
I do the same thing except I use a 1/4" dia round file. I then saturate the hole and the crest with thin CA. Beautiful work on that tail section Sun Devil!
#4

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I was a dental lab tech for a while and still have my hand piece. Just a small dremel tool. I still have all the burrs or bits for it. I found one we just called a Goldie burr, just a small burr with a taper. It's a perfect fit. I have also just notched the area out with an Exacto Knife or rounded the area as shown in the photos. The notch or rounding of the edges is pretty much the norm.
#5
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From: Freedom, PA
Thank's for the tip's guy's, I'm doing a re-fit where one surface is square and the other beveled, hence the quest for a tool to fit the hinge pin into the square surface, using a small sanding drum to cut a semi-circle looks like it works nice on rounded or beveled surfaces, but on the square, I'd rather have a nice tapered hole.
Any other thoughts?
Any other thoughts?
#6
I use a tapered cone sanding stone in a Dremel Tool.
I 1st drill the hole for the hinge and mark the width of the knuckle on both sides of the hole then insert the cone shaped stone into the hole and open it up until the mouth of the hole is the proper width. Works pretty good for me.
Later!!
Anthony
I 1st drill the hole for the hinge and mark the width of the knuckle on both sides of the hole then insert the cone shaped stone into the hole and open it up until the mouth of the hole is the proper width. Works pretty good for me.
Later!!
Anthony
#8

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ORIGINAL: WacoNut
I use a tapered cone sanding stone in a Dremel Tool.
I 1st drill the hole for the hinge and mark the width of the knuckle on both sides of the hole then insert the cone shaped stone into the hole and open it up until the mouth of the hole is the proper width. Works pretty good for me.
Later!!
Anthony
I use a tapered cone sanding stone in a Dremel Tool.
I 1st drill the hole for the hinge and mark the width of the knuckle on both sides of the hole then insert the cone shaped stone into the hole and open it up until the mouth of the hole is the proper width. Works pretty good for me.
Later!!
Anthony
#9
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From: Freedom, PA
O.K., I may have run across something that works pretty good, It's a 10/32 NF TAP! the first 3/8 of an inch is tapered slightly and when chucked into a small drill, it tapers the first 3/8 inch to a near perfect match with the hinge pin! Like I said, I have tried stone cones & metal grinding burr's and could never find one that matched the pin's taper. Thank You all for your suggestions, and when installing pin's into two rounded or beveled surfaces, the small dremmel sanding drum look's like the ticket!
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From: Freedom, PA
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
Keep in mind that the taper doesn't need to be perfect. It's the barbs that do 99% of the holding.
Keep in mind that the taper doesn't need to be perfect. It's the barbs that do 99% of the holding.
s plane is a neat hinge line. We all got our quarks! Look at the pic's SundevelPilot posted of his hinging, based on his work, I have allready formed a high level of respect for the man.......Crazy...Eh?




