Hi there, this question probably have been answered before in other topics but i couldnt find any; so here goes:
I have a few kits and arf's wich the covering is wrinkled, how can i fix that please?
I will appreciatte all answers .Thanks.

Heat gun and hot covering iron . . . or not.

Too much heat and the wrinkles are permanent......................................... ...........

Turqui

Be careful with the heat gun. Don't hold it tooclose , or for too long in one spot or you'll melt the covering. Monokote melts easier than Ultracote ifthat is what you have, so go slow and workyour way up to how close youhold the heat gun from the surfaces.

Jim

I have never tried a heat gun. I use a monokote iron and a hot glove. That way I can press the covering into the framework.

Use of both a heat gun and iron, they each have their own benefits depending on the condition of the covering and where it located on the plane. Biggest key is take your time and be patient, it can be a lengthy process but can be done with good results.

Don't expect miracles when shrinking film. You may find that when you get home after a hot day at the field (or inside the car) the wrinkles are back.

I'm with jrcaster on this one. There are good reasons, I'll try to explain.

Heat softens the adhesive backing on the back of the covering. If you blow hot air over the covering, it will shrink and simultaneously loosen the adhesive at the edge - and in shrinking, the covering pulls the covering away from where it's adhered. Not really tightening the covering, just shifting it.

Heat the covering in between ribs with a covering iron. The part you heat will shrink and the covering that's adhered to the wood around the edges does not loosen, since you don't heat it.

Good luck,
Dave Olson

That's why I don't use plastic. Next time, paint it and you won't be asking questions like this.

When I open the box and find my new ARF has wrinkles or air bubbles in the covering I first try to find out which brand of covering was used. Each brand has a slightly different recommended application temperature. So I adjust my iron to that temp. If you cannot determine the brand of covering, or it is a non-name brand, then start off at a lower temperature, (just to be safe). Slowly raise the temperature until you begin to get the results you want.

I also take a "T" pin and sharpen it. I use this to make tiny holes in the covering over the air bubbles. Typically the bubbles are long and narrow. So I would ***** the covering with my pin every 1/8 of an inch or so down the length of the bubble. This will allow the trapped air to escape so the covering can be tightened and the adhesive can stick to the wood.

Some good ideas, Tower ARFs use Mono and Horizon use Ultra {most the time} They can still be a different brand or type of covering but that is a basic overview. Other ARFs?? I have seen covering that I have used in my shelves with stick on backing.
I start with a hot covering iron and often finish with a heat gun depending on how the covering reacts. Some covering doesn't like to shrink again so I leave it alone, just the nature of the beast. A hole in the bubbles with a very small, sharp pin works wonders, it gives the air/gas a place to escape.

First... more !!!!!!!!! will get your question answered more quickly... but also what occasionally works is putting your question ..briefly stated... in the one line description

On wings.... put couple pin holes in each rib and couple in outer rib or wing tip so air can expand and contract with access to the outside air without affect the covering .. on the wing anyways.

Doesn't the paint fall through the ribs

Or just don't bother with them. They will be back no matter what you do, plus the airplane flies anyways

If you use genuine aircraft dope as a paint your model finish will never wrinkle and will be tight as a drum 60 (sixty) years from now.

Zor

Zor - think you're safe on the 60 years 'cause I'll be 115 before Ican confirm.

There as soooooo many options ... Imet a black-n-white photography professor (25 years developing his skills). Asked him if he was gonna get into color. He said, What? and spend another 25 years trying to figure color out?

All of my old models that had been doped (Testors & Aerogloss) ended up popping the paper covering on the wings in less than 20 years. I used to really enjoy papering/silking/doping, but it was affecting my lungs in a very bad way. Later I would learn that I had been born with a birth defect that impaired the gas exchange in the interstitial material in my lungs. I haven't been back to sanding/dusting/painting since then. I miss the fun, but not the illness the fun caused. On the other hand, I do enjoy covering with various iron-on coverings, so it isn't so bad.


Ed Cregger

If using the heat gun put your gloved hand on the framework near the area the hot air is blowing to shield it. The adhesive under the structure stays intact. I'm with Chip Mull, though, and don't use plastic film much anymore.