Which way do you go about cutting the sticks to your kits? Say something like a 1/8" x 1/4" piece or maybe 1/8" x 1/2"... Do you just use a Exacto or a straight razor? Do you make many light cuts or less harder cuts?

Just looking for other peoples techniques.. Thanks!<br type="_moz" />

For anything 1/16 or thinner I willuse a striaght edge and #11. Anything thicker I use the band saw with a guide.

For larger stock you definitely want to get a razor saw and a mitre box.

Here is one example:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNA65&P=ML

-Allan

I prefer a razor saw (Krona or Exacto) and a jig so the blade stays plumb and straight.  Cutting thick stock requires a real sharp blade and numerous passes.  ...but everyone has a personal technique garnered from experience. 

Ray W.

I have a scroll saw, but was a little worried about it being reciprocating.. That Balsa is pretty soft, so I guess it would buzz right through it, but I haven't tried it yet. I guess I need to find a piece that will have some scrap left and test it..?

I didn't think about cross cutting. Yep a razor saw and miter box. I do have a Just R/C Planes miter cutter that work's real well for cross cutting up to 45deg, no longer available. Mostly use the razor saw though.

Zona saw, exacto knife, big exacto knife with a saw blade in it, {found in most hobby shops} scroll saw. I usually just measure with my Mark One Eyeball or I have a cutting mat with angles on it. I also have a couple of sanding blocks on my table plus a belt sander. A lot of ways to do your cutting.

I use the Zona razor saw and an aluminum miter box from Xacto. For angled cuts, I usually cut it a shade long and sand to fit.

I cut most stuff on a bandsaw then fine tune the cut, made long, with a disc sander. Perfect joints using that method. <div>
</div><div>SunDevilPilot</div>

When cutting stick stock to lenth I use a straight edge and mark the cut then cut just oversized with a band saw and finish it off on the disc sander. With a bit of practice you can really get some nice tight joints with this method.

( Should have read all the replies SDP beat me to it )

Well that's a first. LOL

SunDevil's got it right, cut long, sand to fit. Miter boxes are great when you need exactly 90 degrees or exactly 45 degrees. But in built up structures how often does that happen? And what about exact length?

Smaller members I cut a little long with an X-acto and sand to fit. Larger stuff I cut a little long with the bandsaw and sand to fit. The important thing is that one little word, "Fit"! Having things fit increases the bond strength and reduces the glue weight. Build light, Grasshopper!

Dave

That's two for the bandsaw + disc sander, must be a good method!<div>
</div><div>SunDevilPilot</div>

What stinks about that is I don't own a band saw, closest thing I have is a scroll saw. Just my luck.. I did pick up a disc/belt sander from Menards the other day.. I bet I have 3 or 4 hand held palm or 1/4 sheet sanders, but with a New hobby comes a New tool. Almost my favorite part.
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Bandsaw, scrollsaw, X-acto, no difference. You're just getting it cut close to what you need but a little long. It's all in the accuracy of the sanding.

Dave

I had no idea that the glue would add so much weight, to tell ya the truth.. I guess it would weigh more than the Balsa, but I wouldn't have thought enough to make a difference.. I have a small digital scale I'm going to be using for pet snakes soon.. I'll have to weigh my plane when I'm done and see what it weighs in at.

A well fit joint with minimal glue will do two things. First and most importantly, it will be stronger. Secondly and also most importantly it will be lighter. Glue is heavier than balsa. Add all the joints in an airplane together and a plane with tight joints will be significantly lighter. Add other weight saving tactics and you've got real weight savings. Grams here and grams there equals ounces overall I've saved as much as 25% - 30% through the use of light balsa and tight joints.

To quote a wise man, lightness is next to verticalness.

Dave

You do not ‘need’ power tools to cut the sticks in your kit. Any of the razor saw and miter box sets mentioned in this thread will do the job.

A company called Fourmost has some really slick miter tools
http://www.btemodels.com/fourmost.html
Tower and other distributors also sell them

If you buy and use a two ounce bottle of glue in your build you will get some gas off but it will be close to two ounces of added weight. It isn't like you are adding bricks but if a part fits well you don't need a lot of glue.
I don't have a band saw in my shop either but how much difference do you see between cutting a stick with a band saw or a scroll saw. My scroll saw is right next to my sander. If all you had was a band saw and you needed to cut inside lightening holes in a part then you would be wishing for a scroll saw. No mater what it is you are doing there will always be a tool that sounds better then the ones you have. I would like to have an orbital sander in my shop but I will have to be content with the one at my wood working club. Even if I was given the sander I wouldn't have the room for it anyway.

I started the wings tonight, I've just been using Titebond and clamping everything.. I have plenty of time so I'm not in a big hurry

Those from Fourmost are the ones I use to cut sticks to lenght.

When it comes to razor saws, the Zona is so much better than the Xacto it is like night and day. The Zona saw can be purchased with different tooth spacing, get the higher tooth/inch for the finer cuts. With care, after cutting with the Zona, no sanding or fitting required and it works well with the hardwoods as well as balsa. I also use the bandsaw for lots of my building, especially on the larger models as it is faster and can be very accurate with a little practice and a well tuned band saw.

I use both a band saw and a scroll saw, it just depends on which one has the least amount of stuff piled in front of it. I always go to the disk sander next for a tight fit.

The Fourmost cutting tools are great for balsa and thin spruce stuff . I usually lay out the stick to be cut on the plan and mark the angles with a straight edge and soft pencil . Make the cut and the final fit with the sanding block for a clean tight fit .
On the thicker spruce stuff like 1/4x1/4 or larger I use a box mitre saw or band saw to get a straight cut with less effort.
You don't need power tools but they sure do help speed up the process at times .
If you are building a design with a lot of truss structure the Fourmost tools and Zona saws are well worth the investment.

Yep, that's what I have had for 15 years.