This is not a post looking for bashing of Monocoat or Ultracoat, there are plenty of those out there. I have built and repaired with Ultracoat with sucess but will be using monocoat for the first time due to the availability locally of what I needed. It will be installed on bals/built up plane. Just looking for some tips on what may be different as far as application mothods and shrinking etc.

Thanks

Do yourself a favor, get a buddy to assist you in pulling the covering really tight as you iron the edges, work slowly and allow the iron to shrink problem areas out at it's own pace. you are probably not going to like working with Monokote but you can get a superior finish in the end.

Bob

Monokote generally has a higher shrink and also has higher temp limits. The Coverite bimetal temp gauge is great to set the iron, or a laser temp device is also great.

Monokote seems to shrink as the heat is removed. Heat an area and move away and watch. Don't just sit there with the heatgun baking an area and expecting it to shrink.

SunDevilPilot<br type="_moz" />

Just goes on at a higher temp and doesn't shrink as well. Don't hold the heat gun in one spot very long, you can blow a hole in mono faster then Ultra too. Sometimes there is no warning at all, other times it will start to change color a bit then sort of pop.

More heat, and don't be afraid to pull it as you heat it around wing tips and other round surfaces.


david

All I have ever used is monokote. I have learned to get the edges sealed down (except for a little spot on fully sheeted surfaces). Then I get the heat gun out to start heating it and the use the hot glove to press it to the sheeting or cap strips. As you heat the covering that is over the sheeting it will wrinkle a little, then with a little more heat, it lays flat. That's when I press it down and stick it.

The cap strips are the same, just need to be more cautious cause too much heat will burn holes in it fast.

Just take your time and it will pay off.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will probably be doing this over the weekend so if anybody else has any suggestions, reccomendations or techniques to share please post them.

Thank you

If you normally cover one in Ultra on a weekend, you might be in for a little shocker, but again just take your time and it will look great in the end...

Bob

There is one other thing I like to do, no matter the brand of covering. On your smaller items like an ELEV half for example. Take a T pin and make a small hole between each of the open areas and one more hole on the end of one of the same areas. On a small thin area the hot air can and will swell up the covering like a baloon. and makes it nearly impossible to shrink down. If this area is sheeted it makes no difference. This tip is for open bays mostly found on rudders and elevators. This also works well on ARFs. just put the holes in the hinge line where they wont be seen.

David

Make sure the edges are completely sealed!!!! YES YES YES!!!

If you are using Monokote, shoot the entire frame with a cheap hairspray. I use Aquanet....

The hairspray will seal the wood, but also helps the Monokote adhere to the frame.

My .02 cents.

Brian

this is is a great tip it took me a while to figure that out,

when I to wing tips I pull real tight tack in place with iron then seal edges, heat with real high heat from gun the let cool then hit it again always letting cool and never holding the gun wating for it to shrink, as it will do that when it cools
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Thanks guys, I never would have known this untill I ruined my project. I heat the Ultracoat till I see it shrinking.

daytona, all of the above are great suggestions. If you don't have a temp gauge. I've found that when you touch the covering with the iron, if the temp is close, covering will turn just a little darker, if there is a big color change, iron is too hot. Same with the gun, big color change, you are about to burn a hole in the covering. Naturally this doesn't work with clear. But once you have found that sweet spot with your iron, you will remember it. Monokote always came with good photo instructions, hope they still do. You will use a lot of single edge razor blades, cause monokote dulls them fast, but a sharp cutter is essential to a good job, enjoy.

Alternatively , you can move closer to an Ultracoat dealer , I would

LOL. Actually my LHS carries both. He didn't have what I needed in stock for either Monocoat or Ultracoat. I was placing an order for some parts for an O.S. Engine I neededwith Tower Hobbies because I had a coupon code so I added the covering to the order and they don't carry Ultracoat. I could have ordered it from somewhere else but I didn't want to pay another shipping charge. I enjoy learning new things anyways so trying Monocoat will be an experience. Thanks to everybody for the tips. Please keep them coming. Hopefully with the experience of others as a guide my project will work out.

I actually have some left over Monokote that's fine , it is however , over 20 years old and I treasure it because I still fly planes that were originally covered with it and as you know #%£! happens .
There has been a lot written about whatever happened to the "old Monokote " but that's rhetoric . I exclusively use Ultracoat and have said goodbye to sags , bubbles , blisters and the need to fix them every time I come home from the field after a nice steamy day in the Florida sun .
And yes , even the transparent green is flawless

All the old transparent monocoats are excellent and have stayed stuck down on my planes for 15 years in more than one case
One of the best monocoats for staying put for a long time
Not sure about any newer formulas
The transparent is also lighter by a little
The color of the film covering will have some effect on how well the covering deals with the heat applyed and its workability
Some colors work better than others