Top Flite GS P-47 sports scale; diary of a build
01-12-2015, 05:35 AM
#1576
So I am having second thoughts on the DLE85 and I am considering the DLE55r that I have. It is broken in and has a bowman ring in it. I am concerned that the DLE85 with the muffler will stick out of the cowl, sports scale or not I am not cutting the cowl.
I remember on the prototype that the home made muffler I made barely fit inside the cowl as I made it to fit. I haven't seen or received the wrap around Pitts muffler for the DLE85 so not sure what it will be like. Also the spare pluc cap touches the cowl and has grinding a small hole in the bottom of the cowl on the prototype. I'm ok with a small blister on my kit build as it would not be yo out of place.
So I am pondering another engine choice for this build. EME60 with onboard starter is still an option but the 55 is already broken in.
TB
I remember on the prototype that the home made muffler I made barely fit inside the cowl as I made it to fit. I haven't seen or received the wrap around Pitts muffler for the DLE85 so not sure what it will be like. Also the spare pluc cap touches the cowl and has grinding a small hole in the bottom of the cowl on the prototype. I'm ok with a small blister on my kit build as it would not be yo out of place.
So I am pondering another engine choice for this build. EME60 with onboard starter is still an option but the 55 is already broken in.
TB
01-12-2015, 03:29 PM
#1580
Just starting to look at the stab and elevator.
I may use solid 1/4" aluminumn for the elevator joiner and torque rod, the bras is still in the running.
With the aluminumn I can drill threw the arm and pin it. I can do the same with the brass but it is hallow, should be ok though.
With the brass I can solder a 1/8" solid steel rod threw the brass and glued into the elevator. I can do the same with the aluminumn but it will just be glued. So I will see, the brass will be lighter!
I will be adding about 1/2" to 3/8" to the LE of the elevator to creat the round LE. The way the elevator is in with the robart hinge pins it hits the aluminumn dowle in the stab so this is good as this will be the location of the pivot point.
I will cut the bevel away and glue the new LE keeping the same hole locations for the hing pins.
This should work out to be fairly strait forward and easy to do. I won't sweep the tips back as to keep it simple.
TB
I may use solid 1/4" aluminumn for the elevator joiner and torque rod, the bras is still in the running.
With the aluminumn I can drill threw the arm and pin it. I can do the same with the brass but it is hallow, should be ok though.
With the brass I can solder a 1/8" solid steel rod threw the brass and glued into the elevator. I can do the same with the aluminumn but it will just be glued. So I will see, the brass will be lighter!
I will be adding about 1/2" to 3/8" to the LE of the elevator to creat the round LE. The way the elevator is in with the robart hinge pins it hits the aluminumn dowle in the stab so this is good as this will be the location of the pivot point.
I will cut the bevel away and glue the new LE keeping the same hole locations for the hing pins.
This should work out to be fairly strait forward and easy to do. I won't sweep the tips back as to keep it simple.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-12-2015 at 03:32 PM.
01-14-2015, 04:30 AM
#1583
OKC, I think I know what you are asking now, that the hinge points look like they are not equally spaced on the elevator. It looks like the three inboard hinges are closer together and the tip hinge is all alone further away. Is that what you mean? They are equal but I am going to do dummy none functional scale hinge blocks and I haven't looked to see if the spacing of the hinges will be ok. I will also be adding two hinges at the center for the control horn on the scale tourqe rod.
TB
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-14-2015 at 04:48 AM.
01-14-2015, 12:21 PM
#1585
First step is to sand the beveled LE of the elevator and ruder flat.
Once that is done then I rip some balsa to the thickest part of the elevator (7/8") Then I glue it to the elevator with yellow glue.
Once this dries I will sand it round.
TB
Once that is done then I rip some balsa to the thickest part of the elevator (7/8") Then I glue it to the elevator with yellow glue.
Once this dries I will sand it round.
TB
01-14-2015, 01:42 PM
#1586
OKC, I think I know what you are asking now, that the hinge points look like they are not equally spaced on the elevator. It looks like the three inboard hinges are closer together and the tip hinge is all alone further away. Is that what you mean? They are equal but I am going to do dummy none functional scale hinge blocks and I haven't looked to see if the spacing of the hinges will be ok. I will also be adding two hinges at the center for the control horn on the scale tourqe rod.
TB
TB
01-14-2015, 03:59 PM
#1587
The inner cooler doors are done and ready to cover.
I am making static doors in the closed position.
The door has the three stage step down so when it is closed the 2/3rds of the door is flush with the fuselage.
Carbon fiber layup for the sub frame. Then 1/16" balsa overlaid.
This will get covered and then glued in once the fuselage is covered.
I need to frame out the door opening and creat the mounts so I can glue it in during the finishing.
TB
I am making static doors in the closed position.
The door has the three stage step down so when it is closed the 2/3rds of the door is flush with the fuselage.
Carbon fiber layup for the sub frame. Then 1/16" balsa overlaid.
This will get covered and then glued in once the fuselage is covered.
I need to frame out the door opening and creat the mounts so I can glue it in during the finishing.
TB
01-14-2015, 05:25 PM
#1590
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bristol, CT
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Your snails pace is 7 times the speed of my balls to the wall pace. Lol. I think you've built at least 3 planes in the time it's taken me to build 1/2 of one. Keep on truckin brother.
01-15-2015, 04:16 PM
#1594
Join Date: Jun 2012
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Not so much lately. I've been setting the incidence and affixing the struts for two months now. Lol. Gotta get it perfect, ya know?i used to bang em out like greased lightning, but that was with zero details, the bare minimum. That's only enough for so long before it becomes boring. Now, it's nothing to spend two or more years on one plane.
01-16-2015, 08:29 PM
#1600
My Feedback: (6)
T/B
You are just sending the muffler back ? In another 47 thread a fellow made a custom muffler that used flex pipes into a can the was made to fit in to the chin just behind the fire wall and his exhaust ports were the waist gates in each side. Sorry I did not keep the info or the thead as I was just surfing and happened on it. But it looked like a good plan but from what I remember he had a buddy the was a tig/mig welder.
Just a thought
Cheers Bob T
You are just sending the muffler back ? In another 47 thread a fellow made a custom muffler that used flex pipes into a can the was made to fit in to the chin just behind the fire wall and his exhaust ports were the waist gates in each side. Sorry I did not keep the info or the thead as I was just surfing and happened on it. But it looked like a good plan but from what I remember he had a buddy the was a tig/mig welder.
Just a thought
Cheers Bob T