I believe he meant "Doubting Thomas".

the silver is to block the sun from rotting the fabric. all of this thinning does nothing,,,just use the dope full strength and it will lay out flat with no brush marks. i have covered my full sized stearman and a few cubs and never sanded or thined the do[e. dont use and nitrate. if you apply buterate over nitrate, the bute will shring over the nitrazte and leave what looks just like a mud puddle that dryed up in the sun. when we cover the real planes we use 3 and 4 inch brushes and slater the stuff on when doing flat surfaces. got to be more careful on the sides. some guys try to keep their cubs light so they use only enough to show the color and the "WEAVE" is very evident. this is with ceconite,,,,i have seen full size wings that have way too much buty applyed warp the leading edge and trailing edge as it shrinks over time. i would use silk if i want a "monocoat" finish. the silk will shine up with very few coats ov buty. i recoat the dope in an hour ,,,no need to wait overnight. the only time i ever use thinner is to clean my brushes. i bought 5 gal cans of just about every color aircraft spruce had years ago and have never run out yet and have covered many many models over the years. dope was a lots cheaper 40 years ago. i did leave a cap loose on my can of cleasr and got a skin on top and used a couple quarts of thinner in it and desolved the skin and still use the claer. i give the edges of the wings eetc a double coats of buty and lets it dry and then brush the coverite right thru and make sure i strech the fabric out straight and hold it tight til it drys the proceed arout the rest of the wing etc. i never use nitrate on my models or the full size planes. the sun can rot out silk that isnt protected with silver very fast. aircraft spruce has the silver powder that you can mix with the clear to make your own silver dope . years ago the full sizers used cotton for covering,,of course it is a special cotton made for covering,,,,there was a special ish linen that costs lots more butt would outlasdt the cotton but the ould timers said that the frame work of the airplane needed work way before the linen went bad so the just used the cheaper cotton and would recover every 10 years. those airplanes would be tied down out side and have problems. the lower longerones on the cubs would rot out from rust sometimes.

<div></div><div>Your assumption is wrong.</div><div>The 'strength' being referred to is what's tested with a fabric tester. Fred985 (anyone know what those numbers stand for?) is well-versed in fabric and dope and may have used said tester.</div><div></div><div>I did not change any of my original text. I wrote from memory, then posted a quote from the manufacturer.</div><div></div><div>This is an online hobbyist forum, Zor, not a dissertation exercise. Knock it back a couple notches and we'll get along fine.</div>

Your first text

We have some guys with vintage fabric and dope airplanes from the '60's, and they always have a dirty look to them despite being stored carefully. They look like they were packed in coffee grounds. The fabric is also very brittle. According to full-scale info, polyester fabric loses 85% of its strength within a year if not UV protected, and aircraft cotton loses 100% under the same conditions. The scale interweb forums reference full-scale a lot when talking about covering

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Your changed text

Polyester fabric is not as susceptible to this problem as cotton; however, if bare polyester fabric is left in direct sunlight for 12 months it will lose over 85% of its strength. Cotton fabric exposed to the same sunlight for the same period of time will deteriorate almost completely.

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Ido not know if Ron Alexander is an employee of the manufacturer.

It remains that unsupported statements are just opinions and not worth more than opinions.

Have a great time and we will not have any problems as I leave this discussion.

Zor

I am rather new to the Koverall process having used it on just one recent project, recovering an old Kadet Senior. I like the fact that once it is tightened with a heat gun it never seems to wrinkle. I stick the fabric down with a couple of coates of nitrate on the bare wood then use more nitrate over the material. Once it dries, the edges are trimmed and stuck with a little more dope. Once everthing is covered and the edges are sealed, a heat gun shrinks it beautifully. Then I brush two to three coates of nitrate to fill the weave, shoot with a rattle can of Krylon primer and then Krylon color. Fuel proof and easy.

Currently just starting on covering another plane with Koverall. What I learned on the first project will be put to good use on this one.

</p>


fred,</p>

I have never sprayed dope; I use brushes.</p>

Zor
</p>

<div>
</div><div>You are still mistaken, Zor. None of the text has been changed. 
<div>
</div><div>I suspect you've found something on the web to prove the statement, Zor, hence your hasty departure. You won't be missed, pal. </div><div>Ron Alexander is a covering expert. The fact he writes the Ceconite how-to speaks to his industry cred IMO. </div></div><div>
</div><div>Sorry to all. Please post how the covering works, as I've yet to try it. I'm doing a Herr Cub in Coverlite and have finished an Retro RC e-Moth in it, and found it easy to use but fragile to storage and hangar rash. </div>

<span style="color: #0000ff">Blue text inserted by Zor
</span>
I can only wish you the best success in your hobby activities and have no further incentive to discuss with you because of your attitude and insistence that you did not change the text of your posting when you actually did.
I would not be surprised that you edited again in case some readers go to verify but I will not bother checking that myself.

Again all the best to you enjoying this fine hobby.

Zor

Zor, <div>What text was changed? I'm mystified. Perhaps we should discuss via PM. </div><div>
</div><div>No one else has noticed any alleged 'changes'. </div>

Sorry guys, I had to step into the thread and remove several posts because one member decided to get into a semantics argument about how things were said here in this thread. I've cleaned up the thread, and  I apologize to those that want to discuss this issue.<div>
</div><div>Ken</div>

It has a nice smell-after being in my shop for awhile that covering job does not look that bad!!!!

PLANEJIM,

I do not see any previous postings in this thread from you.

Are you referring to the smell of dope ?

Zor

"It has a nice smell-after being in my shop for awhile that covering job does not look that bad!!!! "

Just don't go out and drive somewhere:-))))))))))))))))

Les