I'm covering my LT40 in olive drab Solartex and am looking for suggestions on contrasting trim, preferably in white. The problems I have is, I am trying to avoid painting and clear coating/fuel proofing and would prefer to keep that Solartex fabric look so that leaves out Monokote and sticker type trimming that that would be shiny against the fabric look. I'm also thinking that just using Solartex as trim, wouldn't work in white over the darker olive drab.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Paint.

Thanks Eddie, I know. That would be difficult for me to do though. I live in a small apartment on the 3rd floor and I have 8 brain cells left. I need at least 4 of them. The fumes would kill me.

Gary, some paints are brushed and aren't that bad with fumes, and when dry look sprayed. <div>I know what you mean tho. I doped a fuel tank area on a .10-size Cub, the placed reeked for about 4 days. </div><div>Even with decals or Mylar transfers, you will probably want a poly coat to protect it. </div>

I may have to re-think this whole thing and go with black Solartex for trim.

That will work. Ever used Trim Solvent? Another thread here on it. Strong fumes, but that's what fans &amp; windows are for. Use it very sparingly.

Gary, if the weather is nice and warm in Texas so you can cure the covering to get it nice and tight so it doesn't sag in the hot sun then using more Tex for trim works very well. Sometimes I clear coat and sometimes not, at this point in my life I don't care if the plane gets engine snot and oil stains on it as much as I used to. To help with clean up then a clear coat is a good thing. If you have some white Tex on hand try covering a test strip and see how bad it bleeds or discolors over the dark. It may not be as bad as you think. Paints like the high dollar Klass Kote goes on very well with a brush and doesn't stink enough to worry about.

Thanks guys and I hear you Gene. On this build I actually prefer a little snot. I won't be clear coating this one. However, buying more Solartex right now is not an option because I'm broke being I just bought a new guitar and new fishing pole. So I'm done spending money on this build. I do however, have a roll of some yellow Monokote and I have an idea even though I don't think yellow would be the best choice for olive drab. But whatever. I have a yellow spinner and I might be able to pull this off. Ill test it in the morning and tell me if this sounds off the wall. I'm thinking of using the Monokote as trim using the Windex method, but scruffing up the shiny side with Scotchbrite in a circular pattern using a drill motor. I might even buff the Monokote a tad with some car wax before applying it.

Now, that's weird! [&:]

<div>
</div><div>Now you're talkin'!  What is it?</div>

A Canadian dreadnought!

Seagull.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USXRCpAx4EQ[/youtube]

I have used both Solartex and Ultracote cut to shape and ironed on for trim on Solartex. Both worked quite well though you have to be careful not to overheat them or they will shrink out of the desired shape. You need your iron set so the adhesive activates but so the material doesn't shrink. These temperatures are clearly outlined in both the Solartex and Ultracote instructions.

The Ultracote trim probably works the best and looks very good on Solartex. Very realistic actually as even older fabric covered full scale planes that didn't have a lot of gloss on the major part of the covering showed more gloss on the trim areas as there was more dope / paint build up there. You can also lightly buff the trim with very fine steel wool or a fine Scotchbrite pad to reduce the gloss.

How much Tex do you need for the trim? I think I still have some yellow on hand.

<div>
</div><div>Very nice! Great tone and detailing. What a sound! How long have you been playing?</div><div>Oldest brother was a luthier as a hobby, fixed and modded many Detroit rockers amps and guitars. He got into it partly from building planes. He didn't want to fly, just build. </div><div>I had a 56 Strat in the late 60s, he had a Byrdland. Wish I still had it!</div><div>Nice piece, enjoy!!</div>

I'm ok, thanks.

Thanks Eddie. The Godin's and Seagulls seem to be somewhat of an unknown company. They make great guitars for the money. You would be hard pressed to find a hand made guitar for $400 and probably none that wasn't made in China. Hand made in Canada!

I have been playing off and on for about 45 years. I'm really not all that good. Just rythem chicken picking.

<div>Gary, I also live in a small apartment and face the same problems of fumes as you. I am on the first floor and have a outside storage closet(?) on the patio. I have been able to paint including Nitrate dope outside then put the plane in the patio closet for a day or 2 while the paint outgases .
</div><div>If you have anything similar it is possible to paint, but may take some thought and waiting for the right weather.</div><div>
I also have asthma; it doesn&rsquo;t take too much exposure to fumes or balsa sanding dust to put me in a world of hurt.</div><div></div><div>I did the Nitrate dope for shrinking and the Rustolium on the patio when the weather was correct for it, without any problems. I used a tarp to protect the property against overspray.</div><div></div>Ken

Well heck server error, can't upload pics at this time. I will edit and post the pic later<br type="_moz" />

No patio here Ken. Ill make something work.

Ok I was wandering since you said 3rd floor.

There are water based polyurathane based paints that are fuel proof Nelson's and Warbird colors (no smell) but they are spendy.

Ken<br type="_moz" />

Warbird colors. HUmmm..... Ill have to look that up. Thanks!

Here is a link for you. There is a disclamer up now that the formula has changed and is not as fuel proof.

http://www.warbirdcolors.com/

Ken

Solartex white does a good job of covering Solartex color.See my Stampe in Solartex orange and white in my gallery. The trim on the fuse and tail feathers is white over orange.

<div>
</div><div>I do a sample with paints, then put a little fuel on it to test. Some blush, some seem ok as long as they get wiped down within a few minutes. Some blush quick, as soon as fuel hits, some take minutes. Nitro percent has a lot to do with paint reaction also. </div>

Hi!
Both Monokote and Oracover (That's Ultracote to you Americans) will stick like glue to Solarex (or any other Tex covering film).I would definitely use Oracover before paint!

Yes, but Monokote is a HIGH heat film, and Solartex is LOW heat film. So you could get the Tex too hot putting the monkote on top of it. Just something to think about.

Use Solartex, over Solartex works very well. I built A Sig clipped wing Cub, made into A Super Cub. Covered the entire plane in White Solartex, then put A Starburst on the top of the wings and A checkerboard on the bottom of the wings and Stabilizer using Red Solartex. Been flying it with A gas engine for 8 years. Never had to clearcoat it, and while it looks weathered, the covering has held up fine.