ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

you know I never really gave tightbond a lot of credit/consideration in model applications with the thought that it was (1) adding weight and (2) so thick it wouldn't permeate into the wood enough for a good long term bond in a nitro potential environment.  So many are using it I need to reconsider.. with the benefits of  lower cost and less fumes.  I used elmers wood glue years ago on my CL nitro models with silk/dope covering.  Typically, those were hardwood profile planes with built up wings.  I am always exclusively used CA and Epoxy on RC.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Well back when the earth was young and still cooling and I was a teenager, I couldn't afford to use CA so I built all my RC planes with Titebond II and epoxy.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

LOL FLYER - I remember those days in college.  Should I get food, a beer or a bottle of CA (or whatever it was I needed) from the LHS.   I always opted to the LHS and ate mac n (a little) cheese.   what we do for our hobby. ..  almost like another child.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

Here is a good read on glue strengths,

Rodney

Putting WD-40 in an engine that has any rust is an invitation to disaster as it will convert the rust partials to a nice grinding compound that will thoroughly scour the insides of the engine. As a water dispersant, WD-40 is excellent, as a lubricant a minus 10 on the approval scale.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

How it went from glue to WD-40 is one of those RCU mysteries? The biggest problem with any of the water based wood glues is warping so I have to give a bit of thought to where and when I use it. The hold I get with it is fine and the dry time is very fast, sometimes faster then I like during the summer. Because of the reaction I get from CA in my nose I have become selective with it too but I haven't found anything that is as quick or works so well with balsa to balsa gluing as CA. I keep several different types of glues on my bench but still use more CA then anything else. I found Sigment is a great choice for stick built planes when using hardwood sticks. The hold is almost as good as epoxy.

raptureboy

Better to follow your own advice http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40Wd-40 most certainly isa lubricant although that was not it's original purpose, it still lubricates ANDdisperses moisture. Got a wet distributer cap spray it in there works great. So if you wanted to disperse the moisture in your engine attracted by the methanol it would be good for that. Back to the original ? CA is perfectly fine for building any scale plane and in my opinion Bob Smith makes the best there is. I also use Gorilla glue( GASP) and wood glue and even good old Goop something for every situation.

VincentJ

Thought I'd chime in and give you another perspective. When I build I don't use very much if any CA. It's not because of its holding abilities, its for another reason entirely. I use Titebond II for building because I have found that CA dosen't sand very well. If you edge glue two balsa planks together with CA and try to sand, the CA jointis harder than the balsa and it will leave a mound or raised line at the glue joint which is hard to get rid of.

CA is strong and I do love its ability to wick into the wood, but for me it's Titebond II and if I need to use something in higher stressed areas I prefer to use 30 minute epoxy.

Rodney

Recommending any one glue for model building is not a good idea. Different materiel and different strength needs often require different means of attachment. I use about 10 different types of adhesives and even different grades of each of those. I would have a hard time trying to use just one. I do admit that 90 percent of each of my planes (all sizes) are built with one of the Titebond (usually type II but occasionally type III or the original) or one of the other carpenters glues but every planes probably has some type of epoxy or other glue in it. I even occasionally use a bit of thin CA but generally avoid it, not because it is not adequate but because of it's unwelcome effects on some people. On foam planes, all the different types of Gorilla Glues are hard to substitute for as they are so versatile and very strong for their weight.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Ahh, speaking of foam, in particular "flat foamies" I use Formula 560 from Zap. It dries clear, adheres well and the cost is reasonable. Foam safe CA is ridiculously expensive.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCX70&P=ML

Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

This is true, but you can work around the bad sanding qualities of CA. If you sand it within say 15 minutes of applying it, it sands just fine. Plastic modelers use it as filler for that reason. If you wait too long, it sands very poorly. Titebond is sort of the reverse: you have to wait until it has dried thoroughly to sand it.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

You both make great points and thanks!!!
I am about to start wing sheeting on the Extra sitting on the table. Change to Tight bond on the edge gluing and my typical CA on the ribs to get that quick completion (i am too impatient to wait without the CA LOL).

mike31

My Feedback: (67)

Try to break a proper glue joint with ca. The wood will give up first!

Flyfast1

My Feedback: (1)

I hope you guys don't mind me jumping in here with an epoxy question. For a lot of the two part epoxies that I use, e.g., Devon 5 minute epoxy, 30 minute epoxy, etc., there is a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener. Is the resin the same for the different versions of epoxy, e.g., 5 minute, 30 minute, etc.? Is the only difference in the hardener?

Thanks,

-Ed B.

Airplanes400

My Feedback: (349)

Does she speak French too? Mine does!

I've also been using WD-40 for nearly 100 years. It's a great lubricant for my girlfriend who is also a French model. She loves the smell and taste so much, she mixes some in her coffee, on her hair, and sprays some on the chicken and steaks that she puts on the grill. Really creates a fine charcoal additive too.

Oh, it is great for engines, cleaning off the fuel residue on planes, safe on monokote, paint, babies, as well as safe for kids of all ages. It's also a great sleep-aid. That last part has got to be true because I read it on the internet from a blogger who seems to know everything about anything! Great source of information, that internet is! Someone should have invented it 200 years ago. Before all those fools traveled West looking for gold! Also would have saved that General's life had he been able to research Little Big Horn before going there.

Airplanes400

My Feedback: (349)

Don't mix the epoxy or resin with the different cure times. They are a matched set. Mixing different cure times, whether resin or hardner, will always result in something that doesn't cure for days. Try a small sample in a plastic container ... you will see.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

I'm going to expand on that question that's a good one....   why is it the 30 min doesn't give much working time?  I read somewhere and can't remember what it was that causes the 30 min to accelerate (thicken) quicker.   reason I am asking is I am about to start epoxying gear mounts in the P-51.

Rodney

Cure time for epoxy is highly dependent on temperature, the higher the temperature, the faster the cure. Cure time also has some effect on strength of the final joint, the slower the cure the longer the molecular chains that are formed as it cures thus the slower cures are stronger.

eagle 01

Hi;Have a question re;adhesives,, Having haunted swap meets for long time I have accumulated several unfinished modelsl Fleet bipe etc but they are old builds and find that now in just examining them parts tend to snap off at glue joins etc.But they are so cheap just can't pass up a bargin!!Looks like need to run over most of the joints with something before doing any rehab on them and covereing?Can't really tell what was used but it was many years ago!Just wondering what you fellows would use to reinforce those old joints??I know should just get new kits but there are many neat old planes out there that someone started and just wants to be rid of now cheap!!Thanks for your thoughts n this subject!!

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Years ago when I worked on the road I sometimes was able to bring a plane......on one occasion I was in Cherry Point, NC for 6 or 7 weeks and had my Aeromaster powered by an K&B 61 with me. On the second weekend of the trip the engine locked up tighter than a drum......I was bummed and started to load my bus when I noticed a can of WD 40. I thought I would give it a try.

I sprayed the engine and turned it over by hand....still really tight, so I put my electric starter on it and to my surprise it started. That startled me and I dropped the can and grabbed the plane. That was when the propellant was volatile.......so I started the engine again and continued spraying WD 40 into the carb until the exhaust ran clear.

I switched back to glow fuel and the engine ran as good as ever - for several more years.

Go figure - WD 40 is good for a lot of stuff.........and probably bad for some stuff, too.

Cheers,
Art

by the way, I use CA+ on most of my 1/3 scale stuff and will probably use it on my upcoming half scale build - and like one poster said, there will always be a couple more different adhesives on different parts of the build - most will work fine if properly applied.

Lightspeed1551

My Feedback: (4)

I use a CA on stuff like wing ribs and balsa to balsa joints but when it high stress points like firewalls I use a  2 part epoxy. CA is light and every ounce counts.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

I'd go over them with CA and reglue them... med so there is some wicking and can build up some. Old kits are great.

joebahl

My Feedback: (2)

Tight bond for me all the way ,My 100 inch wingspan seaplane built with tightbond 11 is a little under 8 pounds with the batterys in her. I dont know why people say tightbond is heavy ,sure in its wet state but after it drys i think its lighter than ca . BTW i dont miss sanding ca at all . joe

ssautter

Another glue that has not been mentioned, in this particular thread, is contatct cement.
I've got so much of the stuff, left over from previously-built GWS kits, I use it whenever possible, due to the low cost.

Wing joiners, firewalls, and any other laminated joints, will benefit from the slow curing-time and workability of contact cements.
Make certain to allow contact cements time to "tack up" before clamping the joint. If used properly, the cement offers a very strong joint.

The type of joint dictates what kind of glue I use. The only time I use CA and accelerator, exclusively, is for repairs.

joebahl

My Feedback: (2)

I use elmers rubber cement in the same way by letting it dry to the touch then prsss the two parts together . I have never tried it on balsa but i use it on building my foam wings alot.