Building a scale 1/4 scale Super Cub from Balsa J3 kit
#1054
JR has a 28 channel 2.4 gig radio... $2600 bucks... I bit cheaper than Futaba's 18mz $2900... I've always flown futaba, so I'm staying with the 14SG, I wouldn't spend that kind of money on a radio anyways, not unless I was in competition (supported by sponsors ), or had a need.
John M,
John M,
#1055
My Feedback: (11)
Theses days you can get a new radio for under $500 bucks. I have the Futaba 14SG and it does anything I need to do, being I like to use smart fly boards for my giants they are limited to 12ch. I did find. 10ch to be challenging. Most of the serious guys at my field have the DX18 ch radio.
TB
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 03-09-2015 at 03:45 AM.
#1057
If that's the case Learoy, then just trace the two outer wires from the pot back to the circuit board and swap them at the board... then swap the wires on the motor.
I don't want to push in a direction you don't feel comfortable with... so just go with the match box, if you feel better about it.
John M,
I don't want to push in a direction you don't feel comfortable with... so just go with the match box, if you feel better about it.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 03-11-2015 at 10:01 AM.
#1059
I have done it with the older futaba servos... they were not self contained pots like used in the hitech servos... so it made it a little easier to do, but the concept is the same... the only issue you will be faced with is, if you remove the pot to swap the wires, you'll need to get the splined shaft of the pot back in its original position, other wise you'll have to go through the process of re-centering the pot in its drive gear.
With the older futaba servos, the pot was in separate parts, and the servo case had a molded tube that housed the pot parts... the pot drive shaft was pressed into one of the drive gears and on the other end of the shaft was the pot wiper; then two screws held down the pot trace board... so all it took was to remove those two screws to lift up the pot trace board with the wires attached... than just unsolder the two outer wires, swap them and re-solder...put it back together and then recenter the pot was easy with those two screws loose, you just had to turn the pot trace board until the servo was centered again (done with the radio on)... it made servicing and lubing the pots real easy... but these self contained pots are sealed, so servicing them with some pot lube spray is all you can do.
John M,
With the older futaba servos, the pot was in separate parts, and the servo case had a molded tube that housed the pot parts... the pot drive shaft was pressed into one of the drive gears and on the other end of the shaft was the pot wiper; then two screws held down the pot trace board... so all it took was to remove those two screws to lift up the pot trace board with the wires attached... than just unsolder the two outer wires, swap them and re-solder...put it back together and then recenter the pot was easy with those two screws loose, you just had to turn the pot trace board until the servo was centered again (done with the radio on)... it made servicing and lubing the pots real easy... but these self contained pots are sealed, so servicing them with some pot lube spray is all you can do.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 03-11-2015 at 12:15 PM. Reason: fixed smart phone boo boo's
#1061
Ok great!! ... I thought you were concerned with the number of channels used in the process of setting up separate channels mixed... I have the futaba 14SG, and that's the modern way of doing it with the software... on my H9 SC, I'm using 10 of the 14 channels... two for flaps, two for aileron, one for elevator, one for rudder, one for throttle, one for ignition kill... and two for light control, landing light and nav light.
Nice thing with these modern radios is the mixing in the software... you can mix in a little up elevator when the flaps are deployed... a little rudder with the ailerons, turn on the landing lights when the flaps are down, etc... once you get familiar with the software, you'll wish you had used it from the beginning.
John M,
Nice thing with these modern radios is the mixing in the software... you can mix in a little up elevator when the flaps are deployed... a little rudder with the ailerons, turn on the landing lights when the flaps are down, etc... once you get familiar with the software, you'll wish you had used it from the beginning.
John M,
#1062
My Feedback: (6)
Guy's there is a lot of neet things in our computer radios, that cold be used if the d$%m programmers would just write the manuals in simple steps, so you don't have to flip pages back and forth, even with 2 flying buddies that are programmers/IT's, some times they have problems and wish our radio manual righters would make it easer.
Sorry about the Rant. But Good for you Leroy you got over the hump
Cheers Bob T
Sorry about the Rant. But Good for you Leroy you got over the hump
Cheers Bob T
#1064
So you're not using a remote ignition kill, just the straight 5 channels with the aux channels mixed to the flaps.... I guess you don't set up the fail safe features either... that feature is a bit more complicated to setup... but it helps prevent the aircraft from flying away if you get a lock out due to loss of signal or link with the transmitter, battery failure (low voltage), etc... when that happens, the radio receiver goes into fail safe mode (if setup and activated), and will kill the engine via the remote ignition kill device... and then set the servos to a predetermined position, like a gentle left-hand turn with some up elevator to slow its decent... its not 100% proven to save your plane, but at least it won't fly off out of site (sight)... if you do get a lock out, dropping the throttle stick down to the lowest position, will reinstate the receiver out of fail safe mode and give you control back if the receiver links back with the transmitter, otherwise if it doesn't reestablish a link again it will stay in fail safe.... knock on wood, I've never had a lock out yet.
John M.
John M.
Last edited by John_M_; 03-11-2015 at 09:28 PM.
#1067
John M the 5 channels are flying channels, the gear channel is kill and after it's all said and done fail safes and settings will be rebound, I have things to learn about all the programs the radio has and I'm not concerned with a lot of what you mentioned, this is not a 737 just a country flier and scale fly-in cub,LOL
Leroy
Leroy
John M,
#1068
My Feedback: (11)
As to radios, when ever I want to do something with my radio and I don't know if it can or I can I send a note to Futaba tech suport or call Mike. They are very good at getting right back to me and I have done stuff with my radio with there help that I could never have done without there help. The manual is useless!
TB
TB
#1070
My Feedback: (6)
Leroy
Don't feel alone same thing hear, as I still have painting to do along with getting a replacement ready for my OOOOLD Dragon lady, 3 project going and it has my old head going in circles.
Just got passed 83 and as of today my expiration date has not been called but with the arther-i-itus everything is in question.
cheers Bob T
Ps also trying to do the lines on the cub bash
Don't feel alone same thing hear, as I still have painting to do along with getting a replacement ready for my OOOOLD Dragon lady, 3 project going and it has my old head going in circles.
Just got passed 83 and as of today my expiration date has not been called but with the arther-i-itus everything is in question.
cheers Bob T
Ps also trying to do the lines on the cub bash
#1074
Well I can understand them replacing the carb complete... there are very few out there that understand and can make the necessary regulator needle and seat height adjustments; that's probably all it really needed.... but the QC of these chinese walbro knock off's aren't worth the time it takes to disassemble them... as for the piston / ring / and cylinder replacement; can you verify that work was done?.... I just can't see the need for all those new parts unless you were running with much less than 20:1 oil ratio for break-in... for break-in I usually just mix 8 ounces of oil to 1 gal gas... then lean the ration down to 4 ounces to a gal gas on 2 strokes after the first couple gal's of break-in mix... on 4 strokes, I stay at 20:1... I break those in with 8 ounces of oil to 1 gal gas, and then reduce down to 6 ounces of oil to 1 gal gas.
But for you to have done any serious damage to all those parts, you would have to of run with a ridiculously lean oil / fuel ratio... reed valve petals, all they probably needed was the valve block to be faced... If you know the Auto industry and how the warranty system works, your analogy of the medical insurance fraud goes hand in hand with most insurance / warranty based industries... I got out of working at the dealerships because I was so disgusted with the whole process... I now work for myself with a good reputable customer base, and I do honest work, with no BS... honesty pays, but you work harder for it.
John M,
But for you to have done any serious damage to all those parts, you would have to of run with a ridiculously lean oil / fuel ratio... reed valve petals, all they probably needed was the valve block to be faced... If you know the Auto industry and how the warranty system works, your analogy of the medical insurance fraud goes hand in hand with most insurance / warranty based industries... I got out of working at the dealerships because I was so disgusted with the whole process... I now work for myself with a good reputable customer base, and I do honest work, with no BS... honesty pays, but you work harder for it.
John M,
Last edited by John_M_; 03-14-2015 at 12:48 PM.
#1075
My Feedback: (6)
Guys maybe you all ready know this, but a good friend of mine gave me the following web sight it is about the history of the super cub and when yo go to the bottom of the page there is a place that says drawings if you click on that it brings up every dwg available.
all lower case (supercubproject.com) I found 2 dwg's that will be of help on my bash.
Cheers Bob T
all lower case (supercubproject.com) I found 2 dwg's that will be of help on my bash.
Cheers Bob T