VincentJ

With the horizontal stabilizer already built, I was anxious to get it mounted and see how it fit. This required two holes to be drilled and tapped to allow two 10-32 nylon screws to lock the stab to its proper zero incidence position. I had to be careful not to drill completely through the stab (If I were to build this over I would definitely have the holes drilled and tapped before gluing the top sheeting on the stab). (The first two photos show these two screws.)

With that out of the way, I wanted to see the wing mounted as well. You can certainly now tell by the planes lines that this is a Morrisey Bravo! She certainly is a big girl, keep in mind that's a 4'x7' table that she's perched on...

Time to build the fin!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have heard if you run the very end of a nylon bolt thru a pencil sharpener to to taper the end they are easier to start.

TomCrump

The air frame is certainly looking good, VJ.

Do you plan to add scallops between the stringers, just behind the rear cabin former ? I didn't, and had trouble with keeping my covering tight in that area. It may be something that you would want to consider.

VincentJ

Probably would work Mike though I've never tried it. I did have to shorten the nylon screws that came with the kit (I used my disc sander for that). I also chamfered their ends, without any problems threading into place.



Thanks for the heads up Tom, as I recall something similar to what the Spacewalker had? I could see how that might be a troublesome spot since there isn't much wood contact in that area for the covering to hold on to. I'll add that to my punch list! Thanks!

TomCrump

Something similar to the Spacewalker should work well, VJ.

VincentJ

Had to take a trip to my LHS for supplies, unfortunately it's not so close so that took quite a bit of my time. When I returned, I started directly on the fin. In photo #1, a 3/8" thick Balsa printed sheet is shown before and after the pieces were cut out. (Note: I'm using the updated plan for the tail section on clipboard)

Photo #2 shows the pieces arranged so they now resemble a fin. Using Titebond glue, the pieces were set aside to dry. While waiting for the glue to set, I directed my attention to the IP. The instruments were assembled then set in place. I used four tiny wood screws per gauge to give the illusion that they were holding them in place. A few more things will be added before it's complete...my first IP, all in all it was a lot of fun to build.

VincentJ

Ready to see how the fin fits. Typically, the fin normally shares the same center-line of the plane, however in this case, the fin is slightly offset to the left as indicated on the plans. This is an original feature that the full scale Bravo had. The end of the dorsal fin (nearest the canopy) is offset by 1/8". I debated where or not to duplicate this original feature, in the end I did.

TomCrump

Glad that you got in some shop time. I spent the day working in my yard.

VincentJ

Tom, today the temperature is supposed to hit 70+ degrees! I am looking forward to the snow melting so I can spend some time in my yard. Our drought here is finally over.

TomCrump

RCU seems to be acting up again.

TomCrump

It's going to be near 70, here, too.

My yard work was really deck work. I'm in the process of installing solar powered lights on my deck railings. They'll act as night lights, so that we can navigate the deck at night without turning on a bright porch light.

But mainly, I installed them because they are cool. LOL

VincentJ

That sounds nice Tom. I want to do that as well on my deck posts. They give off just enough light, and the best thing is it doesn't spin the electric meter...

TomCrump

Here's a couple pics. I still need to clean up the excess glue and add another coat of stain. The last pic shows how the lights were designed to be used.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Looking good Vince! I ended up playing in the yard this weekend instead of playing with airplanes. I just drop $4K having the front and back yards leveled and sodded so I'm watering daily and trying to limit the dogs going out side. Saturday, we did manage to grill streaks for the adults and hotdogs for the kiddo with No. 3 son and his family, he usually works all weekend. Menu included grill corn on the cob, potato salad, and Cucumber salad.

VincentJ

Ouch Mike, 4k is a bunch of money! I'm sure it looks great though...

Just wanted to give an update on what's going on. I have been working on the Bravo each night, but nothing that would be photo worthy. I have added some balsa sheeting and blocking to the fin and dorsal fin before I start sanding their profiles to duplicate what is called for on the plans. The 3/8" solid Balsa fin and dorsal fin are flanked on each side with 1/8" sheeting, which when applied really stiffens up the tail section. I will snap a photo or two this evening showing you what it looks like prior to the shaping/sanding.

The fin will not be epoxied into place at this time, as it will be easier to wait until the fuse is covered (using Solartex), before it is permanently mounted into place.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It is a lot but the wife was tired of having a mud hole for a backyard for last several years. And we all know if momma ain't happy ain't nobody happy!

I for one wouldn't mine seeing the completed fin.

VincentJ

Here are a few photos of what I've been working on the past few days. Photos 1-2 show the tail cone assembled. The two halves of the tail cone were glued together using Acetone. Acetone will actually soften the ABS plastic and "weld" the two halves together, so be sure not to use too much! I just dipped a Q-tip into the Acetone and let gravity do the rest. Two 1/4" wide ABS plastic strips were added to the inside parting line for strength. Note: Acetone was only used on the inside surface of the tail cone.

Photos 3-4 show the Basswood mounting blocks that secure the tail cone in place using 4-40 button head screws.. These blocks were sanded to shape to ensure a proper fit and transition between the tail cone and fuselage. Brass threaded inserts will be inserted into each mounting block.

The rest of the photos show the current state of the fin. A total of nine separate pieces make-up the fin and dorsal fin assembly. Now comes the fun task of sanding/shaping them!!!

davidmlbrown

Your project is really impressive. Question: I am nearly ready to begin covering my restoration project, a Morrisey Bravo, as well. I don't have a good area in which to build a paint booth. What do you think of using a wardrobe cardboard box as a small paint booth? We just finished moving and have many of them still available. I was thinking of attaching the shop vac to a hole in the bottom rear.

Thank you.

VincentJ

Thank you David and welcome...
My knowledge on painting is limited David, but I will give you my opinion, and maybe someone with more experience can chime in. You made no mention as to what type of paint you will be using, I would be concerned routing paint vapors/mist through a shop vacuum. It could possibly explode. I don't know the size of what a wardrobe box is, but I suppose the box could be configured to act as a ventilation hood, like the one used over your kitchen stove. With a box fan, you could direct the fumes out through flexible duct work outside. I paint in a rather large open garage and when I'm done spraying, I open one of the bay doors farthest from where I'm spraying to ventilate the shop, and I always wear a good quality mask. If you can't paint indoors, then why not paint outside? I would do it inside one of those cheap screened tents that you see sold. That would keep the bugs at bay and give you good ventilation. I hope this helps, and please post a few pictures here of your Bravo.

TomCrump

The aft section of the Bravo is coming along well, Vincent.

As far as the paint booth goes, I partially agree with you.

I would not use any type of fan, however, unless it is rated as explosion proof. This assumes that solvent is used in the paint, of course. Sparks inside the electric motor have the ability to ignite paint fumes. I would not take the risk.

When I paint in my shop, I ventilate it by opening doors on both ends, creating a draft that pulls out the paint fumes.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Proper ventilation is must when painting. I had a friend that had a detach garage he modified to use as an automotive paint bay. I painted several cars with his help back in the day. We were painting with Dupont Imron back then, I wouldn't touch the stuff now days.

VincentJ

Painting responsibly and safely is important. I know Tom that you have tons of experience in that field, I was hoping that you would give a better answer than I could offer. Thanks, you may have prevented a serious injury...

davidmlbrown

Thank you all. I purchased this Bravo specifically to recover. I hadn't tried fabric before. So, I decided to use the Sig process, i.e. fabric and dope. I hadn't even thought of the explosive possibilities. Thank you. You probably saved my house. I will have to figure something else out. Pictures????????? I can post some just before I hang the fabric over the wing. Sorry for the intrusion. You are doing an admirable job on your project.
s

raptureboy

I've seen some pretty simple setups using plastic sheeting and a framework of pvc pipe. I use latex primarily with an HVLP gun to minimize over spray and paint in the garage, its heated. I am going to top coat my P-40 with flat klass kote to seal the paint and make it fuel proof. Any open electric motor will be an explosion hazard with solvent based paints.

davidmlbrown

Thank you. I am thinking that I will resort to keeping the vehicles out of the garage while I paint. Plastic sheeting should minimize any over spray. Ventilation isn't a problem where I live, Eastern Washington. Open the man door and one of the garage doors and I have a hurricane inside. I would like to keep the dust down. I could spray the floor down and hang old sheets over the doors. I will try that. It is a hobby, right?