Sig Morrisey Bravo Build
05-13-2017, 12:39 PM
#677
Thread Starter
Second corrugated plastic sheet was cut and epoxied to the opposite side of the rudder. I also mixed another batch of finishing resin and gave the fuse its second (and final) coat. Since the wet fuse is like a big dust magnet, I think I'll call it a night...
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-13-2017 at 02:02 PM.
05-15-2017, 02:56 AM
#679
Thread Starter
One thing I neglected to mention using the epoxy method. Once the sheet is aligned and weighted down, I let it cure for about an hour. The weight is removed and I wipe the surface of the plastic sheet using a paper towel soaked in alcohol, removing any traces of epoxy left behind on the surface from squeeze out or finger prints. The weight is then put back and left to fully cure. Doing this ensures that the surface of the sheet is epoxy free!
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-15-2017 at 12:43 PM.
05-15-2017, 06:24 AM
#681
You may remember that I used them on my Hostetler Luscombe.
05-16-2017, 01:04 PM
#685
Thread Starter
Here's how the parts that I glassed turned out. Each piece shown has been primed and now ready for color, except for the rudder. The rudder along with the elevator will be adorned with rivets first. I think you will find my procedure for making and applying rivets very interesting. More on that later...
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-17-2017 at 05:30 AM.
05-18-2017, 02:58 AM
#688
Thread Starter
Last night I secured the 4th and final plastic corrugated panel onto the elevator. With that out of the way, I can now get it primed. The fuselage has been sanded and awaits primer, but I've been holding off until my new exhaust system arrives. The possibility exists that the tapered portion beneath the firewall may need some minor modification to provide additional clearance for the can on the exhaust. Measurements sent to me from JTEC confirm that it will fit, but it will be close! ( If I had purchased the exhaust before I started cutting my first piece of wood on this project, I could have easily avoided this situation. There's a lesson in there somewhere...) 
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-18-2017 at 04:45 AM.
05-18-2017, 05:18 AM
#689
Vince, hindsight is always 20/20! I have a habit of trying to buy everything for a project a head of time and invariably I STILL get something wrong! A case in point, I thought I had my bellcrank system all designed and built for my DR-1 went to put in and decided to check the alignment with the tail surfaces before applying the glue (A rare moment of inspiration). I cut the new redesigned system out last night after mowing the lawn...
Since I know you are a great builder along with the peanut gallery here I'll ask this question. I am using plywood for the bellcranks with a the brass bearings from a set of nylon aileron bellcrank set for smooth movement. The pull-pull wires and pushrods will connect with 1/16" ball links. I can thread the ball links into the plywood but the stud isn't long enough to take a nut, do you think it will work to glue them in place?
Since I know you are a great builder along with the peanut gallery here I'll ask this question. I am using plywood for the bellcranks with a the brass bearings from a set of nylon aileron bellcrank set for smooth movement. The pull-pull wires and pushrods will connect with 1/16" ball links. I can thread the ball links into the plywood but the stud isn't long enough to take a nut, do you think it will work to glue them in place?
05-18-2017, 06:12 AM
#690
Thread Starter
Mike, I don't think I would be comfortable with just epoxy holding those ball links in place. I know that this isn't a 3-D plane, but I would look for a better/stronger solution. Can you redesign the bellcrank? You could sandwich a brass plate between two thinner layers of plywood, then recess the back side of the ply side of the bellcrank to accept a nut to secure the ball link(s). Another possibility would be to use a T nut for the ball link to thread into, or even better, make the entire bellcrank from aluminum and thread the holes for the ball links. All of these examples would give me the confidence I would want to fly that plane safely. Hope this helps!
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-18-2017 at 10:27 AM.
05-20-2017, 07:37 AM
#692
Vince, hindsight is always 20/20! I have a habit of trying to buy everything for a project a head of time and invariably I STILL get something wrong! A case in point, I thought I had my bellcrank system all designed and built for my DR-1 went to put in and decided to check the alignment with the tail surfaces before applying the glue (A rare moment of inspiration). I cut the new redesigned system out last night after mowing the lawn...
Since I know you are a great builder along with the peanut gallery here I'll ask this question. I am using plywood for the bellcranks with a the brass bearings from a set of nylon aileron bellcrank set for smooth movement. The pull-pull wires and pushrods will connect with 1/16" ball links. I can thread the ball links into the plywood but the stud isn't long enough to take a nut, do you think it will work to glue them in place?
Since I know you are a great builder along with the peanut gallery here I'll ask this question. I am using plywood for the bellcranks with a the brass bearings from a set of nylon aileron bellcrank set for smooth movement. The pull-pull wires and pushrods will connect with 1/16" ball links. I can thread the ball links into the plywood but the stud isn't long enough to take a nut, do you think it will work to glue them in place?
05-20-2017, 01:36 PM
#693
Thread Starter
I'm still in a holding pattern on the fuse because of the exhaust, so I thought that I would start on making rivets for the rudder.
PART I - MAKING RIVETS
So let me start with this statement. This process isn't for the faint at heart, it will take you quite a bit of time and patience, but in the end you will be rewarded with the most realistic interpretation of rivets that I think you will ever see.
Material/Tool List
1. small hammer
2. favorite empty aluminum can beverage(s)
3. X-ACTO knife with #11 blades
4. 2-56 or 4-40 rod
5. 1/8" or 1/4" rubber mat
6. thick gasket paper
7. small plastic tray
8. inexpensive (read cheap) soldering iron
Photos 1-2 Start with a couple of empty's (I got mine from the side of the road, what a great way to recycle!). Cut the top and bottom off each can, then slice down the middle as shown. This is the aluminum stock that will become your rivets. Be aware that the edges of the aluminum can be sharp, so be careful.
Photos 3-4 You will need to determine what diameter rivets you want to make for your project (depending on scale). The die to stamp out the rivets is made from a short length of 2-56 or 4-40 rod. I chose to use 2-56 rod for my rivets. Shape the end of the die for the type of rivets you want. If you want flat topped rivets, then just grind the end flat. I opted for more of a domed or rounded head on my rivets. I shaped the end of my die on a disc sander. Note: I put a piece of blue tape one the side of the die, so I can tell which side to strike on.
Photo 5 I'm using a very small 4 ounce ball-peen hammer to hit the die. I found that the quality of rivets are best if they are struck on top of thick gasket paper with a heavy rubber mat beneath it. Place the aluminum sheet on the top of the gasket paper and start punching out some rivets. (The mat and gasket paper can usually be found at a hardware store.)
Photo 6-8 You will quickly get the feel on how hard to hit the die with the hammer. The rivets will embed themselves into the gasket paper and will need to be popped/pushed out with the die. Now to get them into a small plastic dish for safe keeping. I found that the easiest way to do this is to use an X-ACTO knife with a new #11 blade. Slight pressure on the rivet top will transport them from the table into the dish easily. Soon your aluminum can will look more like Swiss cheese!
**The rivets shown in photo #6 were made from a 4-40 die and "flat topped" which I did not use. I thought it more scale to use rounded topped rivets stamped from 2-56 .
Note- If you have trouble punching out good rivets, your problem could lie in your choice of beverage can. I quickly learned that the thickness of aluminum cans between manufactures can vary slightly. A thinner can will yield better results...
Part II to follow soon...
PART I - MAKING RIVETS
So let me start with this statement. This process isn't for the faint at heart, it will take you quite a bit of time and patience, but in the end you will be rewarded with the most realistic interpretation of rivets that I think you will ever see.
Material/Tool List
1. small hammer
2. favorite empty aluminum can beverage(s)
3. X-ACTO knife with #11 blades
4. 2-56 or 4-40 rod
5. 1/8" or 1/4" rubber mat
6. thick gasket paper
7. small plastic tray
8. inexpensive (read cheap) soldering iron
Photos 1-2 Start with a couple of empty's (I got mine from the side of the road, what a great way to recycle!). Cut the top and bottom off each can, then slice down the middle as shown. This is the aluminum stock that will become your rivets. Be aware that the edges of the aluminum can be sharp, so be careful.
Photos 3-4 You will need to determine what diameter rivets you want to make for your project (depending on scale). The die to stamp out the rivets is made from a short length of 2-56 or 4-40 rod. I chose to use 2-56 rod for my rivets. Shape the end of the die for the type of rivets you want. If you want flat topped rivets, then just grind the end flat. I opted for more of a domed or rounded head on my rivets. I shaped the end of my die on a disc sander. Note: I put a piece of blue tape one the side of the die, so I can tell which side to strike on.
Photo 5 I'm using a very small 4 ounce ball-peen hammer to hit the die. I found that the quality of rivets are best if they are struck on top of thick gasket paper with a heavy rubber mat beneath it. Place the aluminum sheet on the top of the gasket paper and start punching out some rivets. (The mat and gasket paper can usually be found at a hardware store.)
Photo 6-8 You will quickly get the feel on how hard to hit the die with the hammer. The rivets will embed themselves into the gasket paper and will need to be popped/pushed out with the die. Now to get them into a small plastic dish for safe keeping. I found that the easiest way to do this is to use an X-ACTO knife with a new #11 blade. Slight pressure on the rivet top will transport them from the table into the dish easily. Soon your aluminum can will look more like Swiss cheese!
**The rivets shown in photo #6 were made from a 4-40 die and "flat topped" which I did not use. I thought it more scale to use rounded topped rivets stamped from 2-56 .
Note- If you have trouble punching out good rivets, your problem could lie in your choice of beverage can. I quickly learned that the thickness of aluminum cans between manufactures can vary slightly. A thinner can will yield better results...
Part II to follow soon...
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-05-2017 at 04:19 AM.
05-20-2017, 02:49 PM
#694
Thread Starter
PART II - ATTACHING RIVETS
With a supply of rivets made, it's time to get them attached to the rudder. The rudder has already been sprayed with a coat of primer (and sanded with 600 paper), this is an important step because I am going to use a soldering iron to adhere the rivet to the primer using heat! Bear with me, this will all make sense I promise.
Photo 1 Photograph of full scale Bravo showing rivet details on rudder that I want to duplicate.
Photo 2 The tip of the soldering iron is touched to the head of the rivet for about 1 second, no more or you will blister the primer! The heat transferred into the rivet will soften the primer and act as a glue to adhere the rivet in place. (Later when you spray the color coat over the rivets that will lock them permanently in place.)
Photo 3 Shows the type of soldering iron I used to attach the rivets. What's important here is to make note of the wattage (30) of the soldering iron. You don't need one that makes a lot of heat.
Photo 4 This is how I get the rivet from the plastic dish to the surface of the rudder. If your blade doesn't hold the rivet you need a sharper blade!
Photos 5-9 How it looks completed...what do you think?
As I said, this process takes time and patience. You may want to go easy on the coffee because you will need a steady hand...
With a supply of rivets made, it's time to get them attached to the rudder. The rudder has already been sprayed with a coat of primer (and sanded with 600 paper), this is an important step because I am going to use a soldering iron to adhere the rivet to the primer using heat! Bear with me, this will all make sense I promise.
Photo 1 Photograph of full scale Bravo showing rivet details on rudder that I want to duplicate.
Photo 2 The tip of the soldering iron is touched to the head of the rivet for about 1 second, no more or you will blister the primer! The heat transferred into the rivet will soften the primer and act as a glue to adhere the rivet in place. (Later when you spray the color coat over the rivets that will lock them permanently in place.)
Photo 3 Shows the type of soldering iron I used to attach the rivets. What's important here is to make note of the wattage (30) of the soldering iron. You don't need one that makes a lot of heat.
Photo 4 This is how I get the rivet from the plastic dish to the surface of the rudder. If your blade doesn't hold the rivet you need a sharper blade!
Photos 5-9 How it looks completed...what do you think?
As I said, this process takes time and patience. You may want to go easy on the coffee because you will need a steady hand...
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-03-2017 at 03:15 AM.
05-20-2017, 08:48 PM
#695
"Oh yes" those fun little rivets you told me about some time ago, you might consider another way to make them should you ever need 1,000 or so, he he. I'm pretty sure I have done well over that by now. Something about those rivets you can't buy, they really do look real and set your corrugations off nicely Vincent.
I hang around from time to time, been waiting for you to post something I know something about so I can comment.
Leroy
I hang around from time to time, been waiting for you to post something I know something about so I can comment.
Leroy
05-21-2017, 02:04 AM
#696
Thread Starter
Oh Leroy don't be modest, with your vast building experience you can always comment on anything! If you remember, I used this procedure on my beloved Ryan ST-A. I loved the way they came out so I thought to use them on this project. It won't take long to get to over 1,000. Just one side of this rudder took 87 rivets! With such a large wing, I'll be punching out rivets day and night! 
lol
lol
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-21-2017 at 04:15 AM.
05-22-2017, 12:47 PM
#698
Thread Starter
Yes you're technically correct Mike, but a rivet that small on this plane, though correct scale wise wouldn't look right. I don't remember if it was Dave Platt or Frank Tiano that said "Sometimes you have to make it wrong to make it look right"...
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-23-2017 at 09:42 AM.