Sig Morrisey Bravo Build
06-16-2017, 08:57 AM
#752
Thread Starter
Thanks Tom, can't wait to see that lens shining some light! Each year down get me closer to retirement. 
As I said, the fuselage was stripped down and brought it into the garage to be primed. After the primer dried sufficiently, it was sanded with 400 grit paper. It's amazing how imperfections are magnified once the primer is on, that's where the last photo comes in. I will spread a very thin coat of spot putty on all the areas that need further filling and sand to perfection, or at least I hope so!
As I said, the fuselage was stripped down and brought it into the garage to be primed. After the primer dried sufficiently, it was sanded with 400 grit paper. It's amazing how imperfections are magnified once the primer is on, that's where the last photo comes in. I will spread a very thin coat of spot putty on all the areas that need further filling and sand to perfection, or at least I hope so!
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-16-2017 at 12:17 PM.
06-16-2017, 11:00 AM
#754
Looking real good, just a tip go to the local fishing store and get yourself a roll of 20# test fishing leader and you can make all the pull pull cable you want. I keep on hand 4-40 and 2-56 links from Dubro as well. I use 3/32 alum tube to make crimps with. I also use this for throttle connections instead of solid wire linkage. So often you can't get a straight connection to the throttle arm so a cable running through the inner golden rod works really well. The spring on the carb provides the tension you need to bring the throttle back to idle. Just like the cable on your car.
06-17-2017, 02:23 AM
#755
Thread Starter
Thanks Mike!
Cliff, your throttle suggestion is brilliant! Why didn't I ever think of that...I only work on cars for a living. (Except everything now is drive by wire- lol) Do you have any photos of that set-up to share?
Cliff, your throttle suggestion is brilliant! Why didn't I ever think of that...I only work on cars for a living. (Except everything now is drive by wire- lol) Do you have any photos of that set-up to share?
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-17-2017 at 02:34 AM.
06-18-2017, 02:16 AM
#756
Thread Starter
Just a quick salute to those of you that are fortunate enough to have children..."Happy Father's Day"!
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-18-2017 at 02:19 AM.
06-18-2017, 01:24 PM
#757
Thread Starter
Having trouble uploading pictures, so I'll have to do it in small batches.
After I primed the fuse I sanded it down using 4000 grit paper, and as I mentioned before all of the imperfections and pin holes became very apparent. I had expected this so it was no surprise. Spreading spot putty as shown in Photo 1 filled all of the irregularity's, then I re-sanded and primed the fuse for the second time...Oh what a difference! Starting with 220 grit paper, that was followed up with 400, with a final sanding using 600 grit. The fuselage is now incredibly smooth and blemish free. I am now ready to cover the aft part of the fuselage with Solartex. Tomorrow I'll be heading to my LHS to purchase a few things for my Spacewalker and when I return I should be able to start!
After I primed the fuse I sanded it down using 4000 grit paper, and as I mentioned before all of the imperfections and pin holes became very apparent. I had expected this so it was no surprise. Spreading spot putty as shown in Photo 1 filled all of the irregularity's, then I re-sanded and primed the fuse for the second time...Oh what a difference! Starting with 220 grit paper, that was followed up with 400, with a final sanding using 600 grit. The fuselage is now incredibly smooth and blemish free. I am now ready to cover the aft part of the fuselage with Solartex. Tomorrow I'll be heading to my LHS to purchase a few things for my Spacewalker and when I return I should be able to start!
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-19-2017 at 01:14 AM.
06-18-2017, 09:43 PM
#759
My Feedback: (21)
Looking great Vincent! I too have an interest in the Bravo and have a kit I've had for a long time. I'm hoping your build will motivate me to build mine! I researched the Bravo throroughly a few years back, and did a thread here as well. I'll have to check the gentlemans name, maybe Fred? That sent me a CD with every conceivable angle photograph taken of the only Bravo that was ever built in the museum in Iowa. I believe the aircraft was up for sale not long ago too. I even got the paint chips for the correct colors of red and white. Ever detail you'll need to continue your pursuit of an excellent scale model. Check out my thread and you may ask him for a copy if you don't already have it. I have all the documentation ever produced for this airplane, so let me know if there's anything you need, I don't mind sharing what I have with you. I'd copy the CD of pictures, but since they're not mine I'm Leary of that without first getting permission. Can't wait to see how she turns out, beautiful so far!
Thanks,
bryan
Thanks,
bryan
06-19-2017, 01:43 AM
#760
Thread Starter
Welcome Bryan! I am familiar with the thread that you had started, like you I searched all of the different forums for information on the Bravo. I remember that you had conversations with a distant relative to MB, did he ever send you any photos? At the time that you had done your research the Bravo was on display at the Airpower Museum in Iowa. Needing more photos of this plane and not having much luck with finding much usable information on the internet, I decided that I would take a road trip to see the one and only Bravo for myself. I called first and was disappointed to learn that the Bravo was no longer displayed and couldn't be seen, in fact it had been disassembled and stored away. The gentleman that I spoke with said that that they were looking to sell it. So I wonder if they found someone that wanted it... 
I remember asking him why the museum had taken it off display and he had told me that the Bravo was crudely made and didn't think it was airworthy, or worth the cost to make it airworthy. ( I was heart broken)
Thank you for the offer to share and help. The photos that you have on CD are probably the same photo set that I have in print. The photos are very helpful, but as you had stated in your thread there are gaps in the photos that I wish I had to get the small details like rivet placement correct. Pouring over these photos with a magnifying glass and looking at the Varga Katchina videos, I think I was able to give a pretty respectable representation of what I think the Bravo had.
Bryan, I hope that you get motivated enough to get your Bravo out of its box and onto your build table. It has been a very enjoyable build with moments of frustration, but in the end I wouldn't have it any other way... please feel free to post or comment as you see fit to here. Again thanks for your offer to help!
I remember asking him why the museum had taken it off display and he had told me that the Bravo was crudely made and didn't think it was airworthy, or worth the cost to make it airworthy. ( I was heart broken)Thank you for the offer to share and help. The photos that you have on CD are probably the same photo set that I have in print. The photos are very helpful, but as you had stated in your thread there are gaps in the photos that I wish I had to get the small details like rivet placement correct. Pouring over these photos with a magnifying glass and looking at the Varga Katchina videos, I think I was able to give a pretty respectable representation of what I think the Bravo had.
Bryan, I hope that you get motivated enough to get your Bravo out of its box and onto your build table. It has been a very enjoyable build with moments of frustration, but in the end I wouldn't have it any other way... please feel free to post or comment as you see fit to here. Again thanks for your offer to help!
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-19-2017 at 01:59 AM.
06-19-2017, 05:05 AM
#762
My Feedback: (21)
Vincent,
i never got any photos from Bill Morrisey( the nephew of the Bill Morrisey that designed these airplanes), however there was a book of information compiled by the designer that Bill was looking for which had at some point gone missing. Bill wanted to write a book about his uncle, wonder if he ever found it? I believe Fred Cromwett( spelling) was the guy that sent me the picture CD of the aircraft in its last color scheme. What was throwing me for a loop was it appeared only the one was ever built, but there clearly had been two color schemes and tail numbers! What I found out was, Hazel Sig repainted it and changed the tail number after she got the aircraft from Bill Morrisey. Apparently when he went bankrupt, she was an investor, and she git the Bravo. It then went to the museum where I'm sad to hear it doesn't sound like it's doing too well! Wonder what they want for it? Lol! I have another Bravo enthusiast pretty near me who used to compete in scale contests with one done in the silver/white scheme, and after wearing that one out has decided to build another. We found a kit for him at a good price, and we'll likely build them at the same time to help motivate one another, hopefully this fall/winter. I've loved it since I saw the first one fly many years ago! Keep up the fantastic work, I'm getting ideas for my build! I like your rivets!
Thanks,
Bryan
i never got any photos from Bill Morrisey( the nephew of the Bill Morrisey that designed these airplanes), however there was a book of information compiled by the designer that Bill was looking for which had at some point gone missing. Bill wanted to write a book about his uncle, wonder if he ever found it? I believe Fred Cromwett( spelling) was the guy that sent me the picture CD of the aircraft in its last color scheme. What was throwing me for a loop was it appeared only the one was ever built, but there clearly had been two color schemes and tail numbers! What I found out was, Hazel Sig repainted it and changed the tail number after she got the aircraft from Bill Morrisey. Apparently when he went bankrupt, she was an investor, and she git the Bravo. It then went to the museum where I'm sad to hear it doesn't sound like it's doing too well! Wonder what they want for it? Lol! I have another Bravo enthusiast pretty near me who used to compete in scale contests with one done in the silver/white scheme, and after wearing that one out has decided to build another. We found a kit for him at a good price, and we'll likely build them at the same time to help motivate one another, hopefully this fall/winter. I've loved it since I saw the first one fly many years ago! Keep up the fantastic work, I'm getting ideas for my build! I like your rivets!
Thanks,
Bryan
06-19-2017, 09:02 AM
#763
Thread Starter
06-19-2017, 09:23 AM
#764
They make it in three colors here is the difference taken from the 3M site:Choose the Putty that's Right for You
3M™ Acryl Putty comes in multiple formulas offering different rates of drying, working time and sanding time. Use these numbers as estimates only. Actual drying, work and sanding times will vary depending on environmental conditions. Formulas Include:
3M™ Acryl Putty comes in multiple formulas offering different rates of drying, working time and sanding time. Use these numbers as estimates only. Actual drying, work and sanding times will vary depending on environmental conditions. Formulas Include:
- 3M™ Acryl-White Putty is a slow drying formula with a 2.5 minute work time and 25 minute sanding time
- 3M™ Acryl-Red Putty is a medium drying formula with 2 minute work time and 20 minute sanding time
- 3M™ Acryl-Green Putty is a fast drying formula with a 1.5 minute work time and 15 minute sanding time
06-19-2017, 11:12 AM
#765
Thread Starter
Mike now that's good to know information, because the only dislike that I had with what I was using was that it "skinned over" real quick, so you have to spread it on quickly and leave it alone. Next time I'll try the one with a bit slower dry time. Thanks!
This mornings trip to the LHS went well, but I spent more time than I thought I would yacking it up with the locals! Oh well it was fun!!! When I got back, I brought the Bravo back into my workshop (Photo 1) where it has to share space with my Spacewalker. It's getting a bit cozy (read small) in there!
My Spacewalker got a brand new relocated gas tank that has been converted to a two line system instead of the three line that I was using. I also installed a new LIFe battery. making those changes will warrant a CG check now.
With that out of the way, my plans were to start covering the fuselage, but wouldn't you know it, thunder is starting to rumble and I have two dogs that are afraid of the noise and need my attention... In Photo 2 you can see that I didn't forget to run the wire for the tail cone lamp inside of the fuselage.
This mornings trip to the LHS went well, but I spent more time than I thought I would yacking it up with the locals! Oh well it was fun!!! When I got back, I brought the Bravo back into my workshop (Photo 1) where it has to share space with my Spacewalker. It's getting a bit cozy (read small) in there!
My Spacewalker got a brand new relocated gas tank that has been converted to a two line system instead of the three line that I was using. I also installed a new LIFe battery. making those changes will warrant a CG check now.With that out of the way, my plans were to start covering the fuselage, but wouldn't you know it, thunder is starting to rumble and I have two dogs that are afraid of the noise and need my attention... In Photo 2 you can see that I didn't forget to run the wire for the tail cone lamp inside of the fuselage.
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-19-2017 at 02:41 PM.
06-19-2017, 07:52 PM
#767
Vincent is that a piece of granite I see setting there and what do you use it for. It might even be a piece of carpet pad except for the shine. "Duh".
There was a comment about rivet size. actual skin rivets on a full size plane have a 1/8" shank and a 1/4" brazer head which are very shallow, for 1/4 scale the head is 1/16", they will look fine on a 1/5 scale sport plane, on a war bird it would be best to use scale to size vinyl rivets
Leroy
There was a comment about rivet size. actual skin rivets on a full size plane have a 1/8" shank and a 1/4" brazer head which are very shallow, for 1/4 scale the head is 1/16", they will look fine on a 1/5 scale sport plane, on a war bird it would be best to use scale to size vinyl rivets
Leroy
06-20-2017, 08:10 AM
#768
Thread Starter
Well the time has finally come to start covering! By now you all know the material that I'm using (Natural Solartex) to cover the fuse. There are a lot of choices out there, some are better than others and some require more work than others. From my experience a great choice is Solartex, it is a very easy material to work with but as with anything else there are a few things that you have to do that will make your covering last a very long time.
A good place to start is to prep the surface by cleaning it. Running a shop vac over your work isn't good enough, it's where I start, followed by taking shop air and thoroughly blowing off the surface to ensure that it's as clean as it could be. Many blame the failure of the adhesive to secure the material to the wood surface, well for it to have a chance on doing its job the surface has to be CLEAN! Before I put the covering on, I like to take my hand and gently feel the entire surface for any irregularity's that I may have overlooked, now is the time to catch it, or you'll have to live with the blemish...
Next, trim off a piece of your covering to fit, be sure to leave a few extra inches all around. When it's time to secure the covering to the surface I use an iron, I don't use a heat gun at all. It is important to know the temperature of your iron. To activate the adhesive on the Solartex the ideal temperature range is between 212-248 degrees. I use a non contact infra-red thermometer (seen in photo 2) to accurately tell me the temp of the iron, I don't rely on the temp dial on the iron. You can see that my iron is set for 221 degrees, perfect. After securing the covering, the temperature of the iron can be raised slightly to shrink and remove any wrinkles, but I wouldn't exceed 300 degrees. It is best to use as low a temp as possible so the covering can be stretched more down the road if need be.
After much deliberation, I decided to cover the bottom first then do each side, for a total of three pieces to cover the fuse. Keep in mind how (and where) the covering overlaps, you don't want air to get under a seam and lift the covering when airborne and try to hide the seams as much as possible so that it looks good. Another tip: keep plenty of good quality razor blades or blades for you hobby knife on hand, you'll need them. Change the blades often, now's not the time to be frugal...oh and one last thing, once the covering is completed, use a trim iron and go over all of the edges and seams. This will ensure that you have excellent contact between the surface of the wood and covering.
If you follow these simple rules your chance of getting a good looking, long lasting covering are pretty good!
More to come...
A good place to start is to prep the surface by cleaning it. Running a shop vac over your work isn't good enough, it's where I start, followed by taking shop air and thoroughly blowing off the surface to ensure that it's as clean as it could be. Many blame the failure of the adhesive to secure the material to the wood surface, well for it to have a chance on doing its job the surface has to be CLEAN! Before I put the covering on, I like to take my hand and gently feel the entire surface for any irregularity's that I may have overlooked, now is the time to catch it, or you'll have to live with the blemish...
Next, trim off a piece of your covering to fit, be sure to leave a few extra inches all around. When it's time to secure the covering to the surface I use an iron, I don't use a heat gun at all. It is important to know the temperature of your iron. To activate the adhesive on the Solartex the ideal temperature range is between 212-248 degrees. I use a non contact infra-red thermometer (seen in photo 2) to accurately tell me the temp of the iron, I don't rely on the temp dial on the iron. You can see that my iron is set for 221 degrees, perfect. After securing the covering, the temperature of the iron can be raised slightly to shrink and remove any wrinkles, but I wouldn't exceed 300 degrees. It is best to use as low a temp as possible so the covering can be stretched more down the road if need be.
After much deliberation, I decided to cover the bottom first then do each side, for a total of three pieces to cover the fuse. Keep in mind how (and where) the covering overlaps, you don't want air to get under a seam and lift the covering when airborne and try to hide the seams as much as possible so that it looks good. Another tip: keep plenty of good quality razor blades or blades for you hobby knife on hand, you'll need them. Change the blades often, now's not the time to be frugal...oh and one last thing, once the covering is completed, use a trim iron and go over all of the edges and seams. This will ensure that you have excellent contact between the surface of the wood and covering.
If you follow these simple rules your chance of getting a good looking, long lasting covering are pretty good!
More to come...
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-21-2017 at 01:18 AM.
06-20-2017, 12:54 PM
#769
Thread Starter
Second installment on covering.
I forgot to mention something that you should be aware of pertaining to the temperature of your iron. Before checking the temp of your iron with the infra-red thermometer, let your iron heat up and stabilize for about 5 minutes, then take a temp reading and adjust the dial. After a few more minutes check the temp again, you may have to readjust. I have found that the temp fluctuates significantly on some model irons, this could unknowingly overheat the covering. If you like to use a sock over your iron, you'll have to run a higher temp at the iron. Just something to be aware of...
Photo 1 Solartex cut from roll to fit side of fuselage.
Photo 2-4 Covering secured to side without any mishaps. This is the time when you find out if all of your glue joints hold or if any stringers start to bow when you shrink the covering...
Photo 5 I know I said that you have to be careful with seam direction. In this particular case I had no choice but to overlap the covering in the wrong direction. I will fill the seam with primer, and make a faux panel line in the correct direction later.
Photo 6-9 I want to share with you how I remove covering that is over in this case the rudder pull-pull cable exits. Don't try to open the holes with a knife, you probably wont be happy with the results. Instead, use an inexpensive pin point soldering iron. Touch the opening with the tip of the hot iron and the covering will quickly melt leaving very good results.
You've come a long way baby...
I forgot to mention something that you should be aware of pertaining to the temperature of your iron. Before checking the temp of your iron with the infra-red thermometer, let your iron heat up and stabilize for about 5 minutes, then take a temp reading and adjust the dial. After a few more minutes check the temp again, you may have to readjust. I have found that the temp fluctuates significantly on some model irons, this could unknowingly overheat the covering. If you like to use a sock over your iron, you'll have to run a higher temp at the iron. Just something to be aware of...
Photo 1 Solartex cut from roll to fit side of fuselage.
Photo 2-4 Covering secured to side without any mishaps. This is the time when you find out if all of your glue joints hold or if any stringers start to bow when you shrink the covering...
Photo 5 I know I said that you have to be careful with seam direction. In this particular case I had no choice but to overlap the covering in the wrong direction. I will fill the seam with primer, and make a faux panel line in the correct direction later.
Photo 6-9 I want to share with you how I remove covering that is over in this case the rudder pull-pull cable exits. Don't try to open the holes with a knife, you probably wont be happy with the results. Instead, use an inexpensive pin point soldering iron. Touch the opening with the tip of the hot iron and the covering will quickly melt leaving very good results.
You've come a long way baby...
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-21-2017 at 01:37 AM.
LOL
06-22-2017, 09:07 AM
#774
The soldering iron can also be used to trim off covering where you need to glue so you don't cut into the sheeting. Lay a metal straight edge down and melt away. Going to be up your way again this summer so I will try to stop by and see in person another fine creation.
06-22-2017, 12:07 PM
#775
Thread Starter
Gee getting out of school I thought that I would spend more time on my plane...ha! You can see I've been spending time on my house (which I've been re-shingling) and my hobby. 
I also finished balancing my Spacewalker, it is officially ready to fly!
Great news Cliff, let me know when!!! You can critique the work on my Bravo...
I also finished balancing my Spacewalker, it is officially ready to fly!
Great news Cliff, let me know when!!! You can critique the work on my Bravo...
Last edited by VincentJ; 06-22-2017 at 12:11 PM.