Worst tool ever...
#26
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The Higley tool also allows you to use the same blade for more cuts as there are many cutting slots. Flip the blade over and you have even more.
On the micromark manual plane, does anyone have the item number ? All I could find was the powered plane. Thx
On the micromark manual plane, does anyone have the item number ? All I could find was the powered plane. Thx
#27
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From: Knoxville, TN
ORIGINAL: rajul
On the micromark manual plane, does anyone have the item number ? All I could find was the powered plane. Thx
On the micromark manual plane, does anyone have the item number ? All I could find was the powered plane. Thx
If you have trouble finding one, I'll check with the hobby shop here..
BB1
#28
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From: Knoxville, TN
ORIGINAL: CCRC1
I just used it last night to shape the leading edge on an Utter Chaos I am scratch building.
I just used it last night to shape the leading edge on an Utter Chaos I am scratch building.
Got a 1/3 scale Corbin Baby Ace kit this week for a Poulan 46 that I'm converting...
Not to get off the subject..
#29
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Thanks BigBird. I have the plane from Master Airscrew and it works great. It shaves very smoothly especially if it is side slipped a little. I have not tried resharpening the blade yet, but I hope it can be done. A plane that uses ordinary razor blade will be great
#30
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
I love my smart cut, does a far better job than I ever could. I'll be covering my latest over the next couple of weeks and it will see plenty of use. So don't understand what you guys are complaining about on that one.
As for worst tools, I have tried about half a dozen hinge slotting tools, and all were bad to worse. Best so far has to be the GP hinge slotting machine, that falls into the so so category. For the most part these days I try to hinge using the covering where possible, and avoid hinge slots altogether.
As for worst tools, I have tried about half a dozen hinge slotting tools, and all were bad to worse. Best so far has to be the GP hinge slotting machine, that falls into the so so category. For the most part these days I try to hinge using the covering where possible, and avoid hinge slots altogether.
#33
The smart-cut is definitly useless. I use a straight edge and a #11 blade and get far better trim. It should be improved with a roller cutter and then it might be a reliable piece. I have too many neat tools that I'll never use...I guess that makes me the most useless.
#34
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To me, the worst tool is one that you don't need. But there are people out there who will buy anything, so manufactures will make them.
There are a million of them, but the only one that comes immediately to mind is: GP makes a tool for opening clevises.
Ever hear of a Screwdriver?
There are a million of them, but the only one that comes immediately to mind is: GP makes a tool for opening clevises.
Ever hear of a Screwdriver?
#35
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From: Wellsville,
NY
My votes are for the 6 shooter pump ( work ok.. but tend to bust the line inside quite often) and the monokote trimmer. Got one free, so I cannot complain.. but they're just about useless.I do much better with a razor blade or a #11 x-acto knife.
#36
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From: Spring Hill,
FL
With a couple exceptions, I've found most tools by Top Flight and Great Planes to be nothing more than gimmicks that don't work. They're the kind of companies that try to convince you that you can be a master model builder with no skill.
The Great Planes magnetic building board is a pile of junk. Other than the magnets themselves and the board, all the accessories are about as cheaply made as possible. Also, it doesn't come with nearly enough magnets. I found the magnets through another source for $.055 each and bought 200 of them. Then I built my own fixtures and now I have a top-notch building system.
The Great Planes magnetic building board is a pile of junk. Other than the magnets themselves and the board, all the accessories are about as cheaply made as possible. Also, it doesn't come with nearly enough magnets. I found the magnets through another source for $.055 each and bought 200 of them. Then I built my own fixtures and now I have a top-notch building system.
#38

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CafeenMan,
I agree with you about the Great Planes magnetic building board fixtures - junk. However the board and the magnetics themselves are great. The magnets are very strong. I've been trying to find extra magnets for it. I've only been able to find ones that were about half the strength of the Great Planes. How about telling us where you found workable magnetics for 55 cents each.
John
I agree with you about the Great Planes magnetic building board fixtures - junk. However the board and the magnetics themselves are great. The magnets are very strong. I've been trying to find extra magnets for it. I've only been able to find ones that were about half the strength of the Great Planes. How about telling us where you found workable magnetics for 55 cents each.
John
#39
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From: Spring Hill,
FL
JNorton - First, look at the fuselage construction and wing construction examples on my web site to see how I use the magnets:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ruction/06.htm
I get them from the Magnet Source. You have to buy 100 of them to get them at that price. I bought 200. THey are the EXACT SAME as the ones that come with the Great Planes board. Be sure to get the right product number. They have two identical style magnets - one has the hole drilled in the plates and the other style doesn't. You need 10-24 or 10-32 screws to attach them.
http://www.magnetsource.com/
Part # CA41LWH
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ruction/06.htm
I get them from the Magnet Source. You have to buy 100 of them to get them at that price. I bought 200. THey are the EXACT SAME as the ones that come with the Great Planes board. Be sure to get the right product number. They have two identical style magnets - one has the hole drilled in the plates and the other style doesn't. You need 10-24 or 10-32 screws to attach them.
http://www.magnetsource.com/
Part # CA41LWH
#40

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mtudo98,
I forgot about that one!! Yep, I was a sucker too!!
It gouged the balsa with the two little feet that pivot (kind of), and never did mark the center of my trailing edge. I use a ball point pen now with masking tape wrapped around it to make it the right circumference. Draw a line, flip wing over and draw another line to confirm center. Cheap, accurate, and easy. I did throw that one away.
Pilgrim
I forgot about that one!! Yep, I was a sucker too!!
It gouged the balsa with the two little feet that pivot (kind of), and never did mark the center of my trailing edge. I use a ball point pen now with masking tape wrapped around it to make it the right circumference. Draw a line, flip wing over and draw another line to confirm center. Cheap, accurate, and easy. I did throw that one away.
Pilgrim
#41
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From: Waldorf,
MD
If you want a decent hinge marking tool, Tetra makes an excellent one that is imported by Central Hobbies. It is constructed from metal and even works on tapered wings. It is the best hinge marking tool on the market.
Lets talk about some tools that really work!
1) I4C Products distributes a 1/4" drive, 2 to 36 in-pds tork wrench that is perfect for torking bolts on our model engines. It goes by the name Tork-It #36. I have had one for a little over a year and with this little gem I can ensure all of the bolts are torked to the same specs.
2) A non contact infared thermometer. Prices on these have come down considerably and they are great to check the head temp on your engine. I use it a lot in the shop to check what temp my covering iron is working at. You can pick them up now for as little as 25 to 30 dollars.
3) For a long time the only ball/hex drivers around were from Du-Bro. They were made with small hard to grip handles that are very hard on the fingers when you have a bunch of screws or bolts to drive. Trinity products and Ofna products have both released very nice hex drivers that have nice large handles and as an added bonus the tips are replaceable. You can by them in both standard and metric, individually or in sets. I have a complete set of the Trinity drivers and they are excellent quality tools.
4) If you have never tried a #11 scalpel blade in your hobby knife you don't know what you are missing. I won't use anything else for trimming covering. These blades are some kinda sharp and last a lot longer than the regular blades when used on covering. I get mine at a local medical supply store in lots of 100. These blades are made of a thinner material and won't hold up to you bearing down on the knife, stick to the regular #11 blades for that. But if you want super clean cuts for straight edges, designs or such try a scalpel blade, you won't regret it.
Lets talk about some tools that really work!
1) I4C Products distributes a 1/4" drive, 2 to 36 in-pds tork wrench that is perfect for torking bolts on our model engines. It goes by the name Tork-It #36. I have had one for a little over a year and with this little gem I can ensure all of the bolts are torked to the same specs.
2) A non contact infared thermometer. Prices on these have come down considerably and they are great to check the head temp on your engine. I use it a lot in the shop to check what temp my covering iron is working at. You can pick them up now for as little as 25 to 30 dollars.
3) For a long time the only ball/hex drivers around were from Du-Bro. They were made with small hard to grip handles that are very hard on the fingers when you have a bunch of screws or bolts to drive. Trinity products and Ofna products have both released very nice hex drivers that have nice large handles and as an added bonus the tips are replaceable. You can by them in both standard and metric, individually or in sets. I have a complete set of the Trinity drivers and they are excellent quality tools.
4) If you have never tried a #11 scalpel blade in your hobby knife you don't know what you are missing. I won't use anything else for trimming covering. These blades are some kinda sharp and last a lot longer than the regular blades when used on covering. I get mine at a local medical supply store in lots of 100. These blades are made of a thinner material and won't hold up to you bearing down on the knife, stick to the regular #11 blades for that. But if you want super clean cuts for straight edges, designs or such try a scalpel blade, you won't regret it.
#44
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From: Spring Hill,
FL
#46
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I don't use the woodpecker for making pinholes in the covering since I use the Windex method. But I have a new and great use for it now - when laminating ply or sheeting, especially for smaller surface areas, I make holes on both mating surfaces to improve the adhesion.
#48
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From: Lynnfield, MA
I'll get some flack here, but for me it's the Great Planes balancing rig. It's just a bunch of flimsy rods and sliding plastic doohickeys that's guaranteed to poke a hole in something if it doesn't collapse under the weight of your plane.
I fiddled with a couple of times, but for me it's back to the two finger method.
I fiddled with a couple of times, but for me it's back to the two finger method.
#50
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From: Houston,
TX,
Those magnets look like what would be found in kitchen cabinets or such.... or not too far from them. Probably stronger than the kitchen type though.
I found that if you take any old hard drive that doesn't work any longer (and is out of warranty), tear it open, the magnets used by the controller and heads are INTENSE! Gotta watch where you put them down, if there is metal nearby they are taking off for it or the metal part is coming to them! (well, maybe not that extreme, but y'all get the point)
TX-Deck
I found that if you take any old hard drive that doesn't work any longer (and is out of warranty), tear it open, the magnets used by the controller and heads are INTENSE! Gotta watch where you put them down, if there is metal nearby they are taking off for it or the metal part is coming to them! (well, maybe not that extreme, but y'all get the point)
TX-Deck



