Proctor vs Top Flite
#1
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From: Healdsburg, CA
I'm getting back into scale kit building after a 50 + year hiatus. Built u control scale F4U Corsair long time ago, and am new to rc. Love all warbirds, WW1 and WW2, and particularly fond of the Spitfire. In rc I intend to go electric as have too many bad memories of ic. Have read reviews of both Proctor and Top Flite kits and all appear quite positive. However as a returnee to scale building do you long-time builders out there have any suggestions? I wish I could inspect contents of a Proctor or Top Flite kit first before buying but none available locally. I do have 3 Proctor plans and manuals which look pretty acceptable and easy to follow. So far I'm leaning towards the Proctor Nieuport 11 or the Top Flite Gold Spitfire MkIX. Thoughts, comments, suggestions? Thanks
#2
Welcome back Bill. It sounds as though you are wiling to jump in with both feet!
I've built a Proctor Antic bipe and a Top Flite P-40. Both these builds were a while ago but I'll share my thoughts. The planes you've selected are at different ends of the spectrum, in both building and flying. I would not recommend either as your flying entry back into the hobby -- though you may do fine on the building end if you built u/c scale. First off, if you've not already done so, join a club or find someone to teach you to fly, either with an RTF (ugh) or a trainer you've built. While you are learning, you can work on building your scale plane. In my opinion it would be difficult to transition directly from a trainer to the Nieuport 11 or the Spit.
Back to the kits. Top Flite is a conventional "model airplane" build. Sheet balsa with some ply, straightforward, a fair amount of shaping and sanding. The amount of detail added equates to extra weight and complexity - like retracts, exterior finish, interior. The newer balsa kits are much better than those of 50 or even 25 years ago. The parts fit better and the instructions are better. Even so, the build will be pretty similar to what you did in the 60s.
The Proctor kit is a different animal. You need to be precise in a different way because the Proctor will build up in a more scale like manner. It's like an airplane on the inside as well as the outside. You've seen the difference if you looked at the build threads. Lots and lots of fittings, wire, and nuts and bolts.
The Spit and N11 are world's apart in flying - they both require skill and experience though. Sometimes it's a choice of what you want to do most. If the flying is more important, then decide which style you want. If it's building, then just pick the build that interests you most. After all, you don't ever really have to fly it; you can just enjoy the project. While the hobby is moving more and more to electric, there are those of us who believe glow or gas contributes more to the experience. Modern engines are light years ahead of what you remember from u/c. They start right up and are dead reliable. Electric is certainly easier, quieter and cleaner.
Nice thing about the hobby is that we all get to pick what we like. Good luck.
Jim
I've built a Proctor Antic bipe and a Top Flite P-40. Both these builds were a while ago but I'll share my thoughts. The planes you've selected are at different ends of the spectrum, in both building and flying. I would not recommend either as your flying entry back into the hobby -- though you may do fine on the building end if you built u/c scale. First off, if you've not already done so, join a club or find someone to teach you to fly, either with an RTF (ugh) or a trainer you've built. While you are learning, you can work on building your scale plane. In my opinion it would be difficult to transition directly from a trainer to the Nieuport 11 or the Spit.
Back to the kits. Top Flite is a conventional "model airplane" build. Sheet balsa with some ply, straightforward, a fair amount of shaping and sanding. The amount of detail added equates to extra weight and complexity - like retracts, exterior finish, interior. The newer balsa kits are much better than those of 50 or even 25 years ago. The parts fit better and the instructions are better. Even so, the build will be pretty similar to what you did in the 60s.
The Proctor kit is a different animal. You need to be precise in a different way because the Proctor will build up in a more scale like manner. It's like an airplane on the inside as well as the outside. You've seen the difference if you looked at the build threads. Lots and lots of fittings, wire, and nuts and bolts.
The Spit and N11 are world's apart in flying - they both require skill and experience though. Sometimes it's a choice of what you want to do most. If the flying is more important, then decide which style you want. If it's building, then just pick the build that interests you most. After all, you don't ever really have to fly it; you can just enjoy the project. While the hobby is moving more and more to electric, there are those of us who believe glow or gas contributes more to the experience. Modern engines are light years ahead of what you remember from u/c. They start right up and are dead reliable. Electric is certainly easier, quieter and cleaner.
Nice thing about the hobby is that we all get to pick what we like. Good luck.
Jim
#3
First I agree with jjscott above, IF you want to jump back in with a scale build go with aTop Flight Kit, that being said, also agree with Jim that they are NOT what you want to start with for getting back to flying.
May I suggest an alternative since you like WW-I aircraft? Grab a BUSA Eindecker 90 (http://shop.balsausa.com/product_p/417.htm) Easy to build; gets those building skills back, easy to 'dress up' with scale details. And most importantly VERY easy to fly. Almost an IDEAL scale trainer. I've been bouncing mine around for 4 years now without a glitch.
May I suggest an alternative since you like WW-I aircraft? Grab a BUSA Eindecker 90 (http://shop.balsausa.com/product_p/417.htm) Easy to build; gets those building skills back, easy to 'dress up' with scale details. And most importantly VERY easy to fly. Almost an IDEAL scale trainer. I've been bouncing mine around for 4 years now without a glitch.
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Many thanks for the comments so far. Don't think I will start out with either Proctor or TopFlite. Am leaning towards the suggested Balsa USA Fokker DIII Eindecker 90, which will be electric powered. But darn it all, it is really a huge kit! Wouldn't something smaller, say with wingspan in the 5' range work just as well ???? Any suggestions for alternatives, accomplishing the objectives of "ok scale", reasonably easy to build, and a good and reliable trainer? No foam please! Thanks
#6
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#7
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They all look big ... until you get them to the field.
Something in the 60 inch range might be more practical to transport; but, the bigger one will fly better. Downside is that the bigger model will be less tolerant of mishandling; it will be more easily damaged, and probably take longer to repair.
In my judgement, the best way to begin RC is to take the easiest route. This will probably be a 3-channel "vintage" type of model. And, if you really want to gain some confidence, dispense with the undercarriage. Hand-launch the model and belly-land. Quite difficult to do major damage, when you land this way. Undercarriage requires a degree of handling skills which you do not have, yet. This is the quickest way to get yourself flying, independent of instructors. After a few dozen belly-landings, you can plug the undercarriage in.
Baby steps.
I'm sure that there's tons of ready-made models which would suit your purposes ... and I know that there's thousands of plans out there, to be had for nothing.
Of course, at the end of the day ... you'll just do what you want
Something like this ought to get you going, with minimum effort ... meanwhile, you will be building your Proctor/Topflite/BUSA/whatever.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...otor_ARF_.html
This has ailerons, but no undercarriage. You can easily fabricate some wire legs, when you feel confident to use undercarriage.
Or, how about this little cutie?
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...80mm_PNF_.html
Something in the 60 inch range might be more practical to transport; but, the bigger one will fly better. Downside is that the bigger model will be less tolerant of mishandling; it will be more easily damaged, and probably take longer to repair.
In my judgement, the best way to begin RC is to take the easiest route. This will probably be a 3-channel "vintage" type of model. And, if you really want to gain some confidence, dispense with the undercarriage. Hand-launch the model and belly-land. Quite difficult to do major damage, when you land this way. Undercarriage requires a degree of handling skills which you do not have, yet. This is the quickest way to get yourself flying, independent of instructors. After a few dozen belly-landings, you can plug the undercarriage in.
Baby steps.
I'm sure that there's tons of ready-made models which would suit your purposes ... and I know that there's thousands of plans out there, to be had for nothing.
Of course, at the end of the day ... you'll just do what you want

Something like this ought to get you going, with minimum effort ... meanwhile, you will be building your Proctor/Topflite/BUSA/whatever.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...otor_ARF_.html
This has ailerons, but no undercarriage. You can easily fabricate some wire legs, when you feel confident to use undercarriage.
Or, how about this little cutie?
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...80mm_PNF_.html
Last edited by bogbeagle; 06-03-2015 at 01:39 AM.
#8
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From: Healdsburg, CA
Thanks to all for your input. Taking a timid leap I ordered today the manual and plans for the BUSA Eindecker 40. I must go electric so any suggestions for proper motors for this kit? Any thoughts on required modifications to the kit to accommodate the electric motor and battery? As always many thanks in advance for your advice. Bill
#10
Bill I find it easier to use the E Flite line of motors because the name them by equivalent power to a glow engine. So for the little Eindecker I'd go with this:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/airplane...70kv-eflm4046a
and use what ever props and speed controllers they list in the completion tab.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/airplane...70kv-eflm4046a
and use what ever props and speed controllers they list in the completion tab.
Last edited by MajorTomski; 06-04-2015 at 04:56 AM.
#11
And Bill when you get to covering you might consider the "antique" solartex. It's an iron on and it is translucent like clear doped linen. The solartex "linen" is painted light tan and it is opaque so you lose seeing the frame work as the plane flies.
Last edited by MajorTomski; 06-04-2015 at 09:44 AM.




