I am in the process of building a GP Super Skybolt with a .91 Saito in it. I am interested in glassing this plane because its going to look so nice that I didn't want to insult it by monocoating. I would like your opinons on the weight factor (the .91 on this plane is on the low end on this plane) and also if any of you knew of a good website with instructions for glassing.

Tmproof:

If you asked ten people how to glass you would get ten different techniques. Here is a web site to help get you started: www.arts-hobby.com/fiberglassing01.html . I deviate a little from the technique show on the web site. First, I use West Marine epoxy resin and the slow cure hardener. The West system uses a pump for the resin and hardener. You get the same amount every time so your mixture is the same every time and the slow cure hardener gives you more working time then the Zpoxy resin (which is a good resin also, just cures too fast for my liking). Second, I do not use the roll of toilet tissue to pick up the excess resin. Instead, I use a wax coated playing card to squeegee the excess resin off. With the West system you have about 30 to 45 minutes of working time which is more than enough time to squeegee the excess resin off. As far as weight goes, too much resin is your enemy. Take as much of it off as you can on both coats. When I do this it does not fill in all of the weave of the cloth. The next step I use is to spray automotive filler primer (you can get this in a spray can). Wet sand the filler primer until I can see the wood again. The primer will also fill in any shallow low spot and small imperfections you may have missed. Next I use a easy sanding automotive glazing filler, like Evercoat or Icing, to fill in any low spots or imperfections that the filler primer did not take care of. Wet sand this to a smooth finish. Next I spray a coat of regular primer automotive primer. This shows any pin holes or other imperfections that I still need to take care of. I use a very lite coat of automotive glaze to fill in the pin holes and fix the imperfections. Wet sand all of this until you see the wood and get a smooth, even finish. Now you are ready for the last primer coat. Spray it on, then wet sand it litely to get a smooth, even finish. Now spray your paint and presto, you have a nicely finished model. It sounds like a lot of work but once you start it goes pretty quickly. To me the most important thing to remember is that the more time you spend preping, the better the finish will be. Hope this helps.

Top Flite says that Monokote opaques weight 1.8 ounces per square yard.

The industry standard for glassing is to use the same weight in resin that your cloth weighs.... i.e., 1 ounce of cloth=1 ounce of resin.

So if you use .75 oz. cloth, you'll end up at a glassed weight, before primer and paint, of 1.5 oz per quare yard. I don't think there's' any way to glass a plane lighter than Monokote, but you CAN do it without a LARGE gain in weight, and add some strength and beauty at the same time... (no wrinkles!)

My non-commercial web site (below) has a lot of tips on glassing, including plug and mold making. Just go to the "Design and Building Tips" page.

Good luck!