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Gap After Joining Wing Halves

Old 07-01-2019, 11:31 AM
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SA Flyer
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Default Gap After Joining Wing Halves

After joining (epoxying) together the wing halves, a near 1/16 inch gap occurred. I took a precaution to prohibit that, but something must have slid over night.
I am uncertain that a layer of 1 ounce fiberglass cloth would prevent the wings from folding on the maiden flight. Looking for ideas to solve this.
I found that I had two 1/8 inch by 12 inch lengths of C-F rod that might be the solution. But, I wonder if I would be weakening the wing structure further by cutting grooves on top and bottom side spars.
What do you think about my idea, or what do you think I should do?
I posted this in RCG also so as to get your reponse too.
Thanks.
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Old 07-01-2019, 11:39 AM
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speedracerntrixie
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Fill the gap with a paste of cabosil and epoxy resin and then while still wet, apply a layer of your 1oz cloth out about 1" past the fuselage sides followed by another 3" wide strip. Your center section will be bulletproof and your fuselage sides won't dent the wing sheeting.
Old 07-01-2019, 08:13 PM
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OK. Here's what I am understanding you are recommending:


"apply a layer of your 1oz cloth out about 1" past the fuselage sides"
So, my first layer of cloth is wider than the fuse sides. For example, if my fuse width is 3 inches, then I am laying down a 5 inch width first. Si?

"followed by another 3" wide strip"
After that cures, I lay down a 3 inch width over the 5 inch width? Si, o No?


I will hold off until I hear from you. And, thanks for being the first to reply. Much appreciated.
Lupe in San Antonio
Old 07-02-2019, 04:31 AM
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Of course you want to fill in the gap with epoxy thickened with..... speed said Cabosil, I've used something like that (fine powdered silica.) I've also used milled fiberglass and balsa sanding dust.

Then lay down the 5", and follow up with the 3".

I generally just do the one layer and often it is no more than 2" wide. However, do it speed's way an you will indeed have a very strong wing that you don't have to worry about.
Old 07-02-2019, 05:40 AM
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Very clearly understood and will try later this morning.

Balsa dust I can create. I don't have any Cabosil. Did not know it existed. All that I've seen at the LHS is micro-balloons.

The only silica I know of is inside those little packets that are included in medical prescription bottles and electronics packages. Probably not the same, is it?


Thanks guys.

Last edited by SA Flyer; 07-02-2019 at 05:49 AM. Reason: additional text
Old 07-02-2019, 04:34 PM
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Fillers and Thickeners for Polyester and Epoxy Resins
Look under modifiers. I use this stuff all the time mix as little or as much to a thick, non drip consistency.
Old 07-02-2019, 06:45 PM
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Sorry for the late return, looks like everyone is on the same page. Only thing I want to add is to do everything in one step. Fill the gap, lay down the 5" strip then the 3" strip. Blot out any excess resin with paper towel and let cure.
Old 07-02-2019, 08:09 PM
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Thanks for the help replies, gents.



Minor Note: About an hour ago, RCU halted or went into a "technical difficulties" sort of outage. At that time, I was preparing a reply.



Anyways. I did exactly what speedracerntrixie (man, that's a long user name) suggested. In the post above you say to do it in "one step". Funny thing is that I did exactly just that several hours ago.



Just went out in the garage..er..building shop to check the wing. I feel a high level of confidence that my issue has been resolved. Of course, the proof is in the pudding. Maiden flight is about a few weeks from now for my short kit, a Super Sportster 61. Last time I built anything was about 1999.



Next comes sanding, the test fitting, and the covering material. Speaking of covering. I had not checked the prices on H9 Ultracote. OMG! Guess I will have to check Monokote prices. What are you using?


Thanks speed and CHassan. Thanks edp, that website has been added to my favorites for future use.
Old 07-08-2019, 04:03 PM
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I just checked in again and am glad to see things moving forward. As for covering, I am a Monokote guy 100%. That is not to say other coverings are bad. I have been using Monokote since 1975 and although it has gone through some changes and admittedly is most likely the most difficult to apply, I feel that the end result justifies the additional effort. If you would like some application tips just let me know, always happy to share techniques that came from years of screw ups.
Old 07-08-2019, 07:18 PM
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Thanks for the vote on Monokote. Ultracote was my favorite. But, price now has me leaning toward Monokote.
I like the Reed Falcon graphics scheme. Large checkerboard adds a lot to its looks. That will help during inflight orientation. I am scheduled for a vision exam this month.

I was planning on using yellow as the base color with red & blue accents.

If you don't mind, I'd like to borrow your biplane's classy scheme. Really looks sharp and unique.

If you've already done a thread on Monokote application, let me know the link. OTW, I will search for your past posts and others as well. Last time, I did any covering was 10+ years ago.

Later.
Old 07-08-2019, 07:47 PM
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In that case, a picture of the Super Kaos I tried the scheme on first may help. I haven done any threads specifically on Monokote. There are really only a few key points besides getting some practice. The biggest key is to get the wood as dust free a possible prior to application. I finish sand with 400 grit and then dust off with some old dark color T shirts. You will be amazed at how much wood dust comes off and that it takes at least 6 dustings until you see no dust on the T shirt. That's the reason for the dark color. The next thing to remember is to apply in such a manner that you won't need much shrink. When doing wings, pull it tight as you iron onto the LE and TE. Work from one end to the other making sure you get all the air out from underneath. Any trapped air will become bubbles/wrinkles later. Now for a little trick. When applying Monokote over Monokote, use Windex with ammonia. Spray the Windex down, place your peice of trim and then squeegee the Windex out with a balsa squeegee. Let it set overnight and then iron down with the iron set to medium heat. Just takes a little practice.
Old 07-09-2019, 07:43 AM
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Wow. Beautifully done SK. Outstanding, eye-catching scheme that certainly draws attention when it comes into the pits.

I like the straight-lined, easy-to-cut graphics that would make this part of the build easier for me. Thanks for the pic.
In a Sig 4Star build thread, VincentJ mentions blasting the frame work with compressed air to remove hidden dust. Your black T-shirt idea goes a step further. Never thought of that. Man, how things have advanced since I last built a plane.

My buy list keeps getting longer. I will be adding 400 grit sandpaper and Windex with Ammonia to it.

I think I have a pretty good experience on stretching the covering tight upon initial application.

Regarding applying of graphics such the stripes and checkerboards, do you first prep the area beneath by puncturing with multiple pinholes? Or, do you just lay it down?

It's a good feeling in coming to the field with a kit-built plane that does not resemble the others sitting in the pit area.

Thanks for your tips.
Old 07-09-2019, 08:35 AM
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Prior to applying trim, you just want to make sure the area is clean. No other prep is nessesary. My mindset when starting the covering process is that the build is only halfway done. I will work on covering for an hour here and a couple hours there. Usually takes me several weeks to cover an airplane.
Old 07-09-2019, 09:09 AM
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Thanks for the reply.
This is what I am working on for about 3 months. A BalsaWorkbench short kit of the Super Sportster 60. Without the pointy nose it was designed with.

A lot of mods and small mistakes along the way, but there's no turning back, just solve the problem and keep on going.

Well, gotta go to Lowes to get my list fulfilled.
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:08 PM
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Default Super Kaos Graphics Scheme

Speed, I hope you don't mind, but to keep from coming back to this image in RCU, I did a little editing on it. This will serve as a reference for me when I'm plotting/cutting out the graphics. I forget the small details.

Note: Fear not, I do not plan on making any money on your image. Once done, I will dispose of the image.

My finished work will not be as perfect as yours appears. But, practice makes perfect.
Thanks.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:58 PM
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I'm happy you have use of the picture, use as you wish. I have no problems with anyone duplicating anything I have done, I'm flattered when and if it happens.

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