Has anyone built, or had experience with the 1/5 Super Chipmunk kits from Apache Products in the UK?

I am thinking about ordering the retract version and would like to hear from anyone who may have built the kit.

Thanks in advance

Any word on the 1/5 Super Chipmunk?
It's 81" span and supposedly weighs 13 lb with the retracts.
Any suggestions for an engine for it?
Would a G38 be an overkill?

Offspring of a Friend:

Sorry, Ari. Can't help you on this one.

Bill.

They are based on the Ohio R/C Chipmunks and should fly very well. The dollar to pound rate is not good right now.

A G-38 would weigh a lot and the plane comes out nose heavy. You might be better off with a Moki 1.80 if you want that kind of power or OS 160FX would also give total unlimited vertical in a 12.5 lb. plane.

I ordered an Enya 1.55 for mine. Not as much power but it's light and the muffler is small.

Brian,

Thanks for the comments.
Fortunately, the aussie dollar to pound ratio is at the best it's been for a long time at the moment, so the Chipmunk doesn't come out too bad.

I was also suspecting that a G38 would be a bit heavy. I like the gas motors but the weight is a problem in the smaller ones.
Might go for a Moki 1.8, even 1.5.
I like planes flying on the wing, not the prop.

Have you had any experience with smoke setups on a big 2 stroke like the Moki?

I don't have one but there is a gentleman here on RCU that has a Ohio R/C Chipmunk with the Moki, he said he really likes it. If you do a search you should be able to find the thread.

I think you will get better smoke from a four stroke and you can use a shaker smoke pump to eliminate the weight of an electric motor and battery pack. You won't have the vertical but the plane will fly better overall.

A lighter plane will not speed up as much in a vertical dive as a heavy one with the same diameter prop at the same idle rpm.

There's a company in Au that makes a Chipmunk, Model Design. http://www.modeldesign.com.au/SuperChipmunk.html It looks good in the pictures. 100" wing span. It looks like you could buy the Austrailian 100" fiberglass plane sheeted for the same price as the Apache kit and no shipping.

Make sure you add weight to the counter balance of the rudder and elevator to prevent flutter. The surfaces are pretty big, it will not take much weight. Ohio R/C recommended scrap piano wire near the leading edge of the rudder counter balance. I heard that a 3W chipmunk went in because the tail fluttered and the tail ripped off the fuselage down in South America.

Skypilot,

Thanks for the comments.
I had ordered the Apache chipmunk when I saw the one from Modeldesign.
100" is slightly bigger than I had been looking at but I might well "add it to the fleet" later on.

Thanks for the comments re the counterweights. I'll certainly keep that in mind

More on the 1/5 Super Chipmunk.

I bought the N13Y retract version from Apache. When I opened the box, I was most impressed with the quality of the kit. Most if not all of the included accessories were of the quality you go out and buy when you have thrown out standard inclusions in a kit.
The wood is CNC routed as opposed to die cut or laser cut.

After much deliberation, I bought the G38 for the kit, but on a second thought, I have decided to set it aside for my next project which will be a 1/3 Sig Spacewalker and go for a Moki 1.8 instead for the Chipmunk. Reasons were that I have problems with fitting the G38 with a Bisson Pitts muffler without shortening the nose structre. I also wanted the lighter weight of the Moki.

I have done all basic framing of the wings and tailgroup. Parts have been excellent fit and the plane seems to be coming out strong but relatively light. The design of the wing is impressive with a plywood cradle that extends the full length of the wing and interlocks with the spars and ribs. The retract bay is a frame of plywood which also interlocks into the structures. Only thing I would have liked to see different is the wing, but it is a single part, which makes transport harder.

Everything has alignment tabs on it to guarantee straight build. The wing has the scale airfoil, blending from semi-symmetrical at the root into a washout type airfoil at the tip. The ailerons are built as a part of the wing, but cut away once the wing is sheeted and capped with a leading edge strip.

Fuselage is stadoff scale with flat sides, but you can round the lower corners quite a bit for better looks. I also think it would be relatively easy to modify the fuse sides for a more scale outline.

The cowl is one of the best quality fibreglass ones you see. Because of the retracts, there are no spats, but the kit includes scale fairings for the retracted wheels. A wing fairing is also included, but it's made of ABS and is somewhat thin. I might make up a new fairing from balsa and 1/32" ply and replace the included ABS one.

Everything except tank, engine and covering is included, even the wheels.

I am attaching a couple of photos of the basic frame-up.

Regards

Ari

I have been very slow working on the Chipmunk because I have also been framing up a 33% Super Decathlon from Hostetler plans which has distracted me quite a bit.

Finally, some progress has been made though. The plane is now at the covering stage. As can be seen, I have applied the white base colour plus some of the red trim.
I am making a scale instrument panel for the plane out of a J-Tec kit. Hopefully, it will come out nice.

This kit has air retracts that lock in the down position if air pressure is lost.

The engine is a Moki 1.8 with a Sullivan Skywriter smoke pump to be fitted.

Ari

Could you pls tell me where you got the pilot from?
MW

MW,

At this point, I haven't fitted a pilot figure.

The plane is ready for the maiden flight but time has been working against me and I hope to be able to fly it in a couple of weeks time.

Regards

Ari

cg Zimbabwe Hi,
I have two Apache Aviation Chipmunks. The Pepsi Skydancer Super Chipmunk and Art Scholl's Penzoil with retracts version. The Pepsi has an ST325 and the Penzoil a Moki 210 both have 18*10 props turning at just short of 8000rpm. Both fly with serious authority and are a great pleasure to own. Both kits are well put together and satisfying to build and complete. Mike Clewes the designer in UK is very helpful and has advised me with these and other larger models over several years.
Over a period of years and hundreds of flights I can make a few observations:
(1) The ABS wing fairings are very fragile and I replaced them with fibreglass ones.
(2) The wheels on both models were marginally too far back causing the model to easily tip forward whilst taxiing. With the heavier G38 I anticipate that this would be more pronounced and you might need a 20"prop. I moved both sets of wheels forward by 10mm . In the case of the Pepsi this was a matter of bending the u/c wire forward a bit. I think that Apache may have incorporated this in their later kits. with the retracts I put spacers under the back of the retract block
(3) the u/cs on both models tended to flex backwards after about 25 flights. For the Pepsi I made new legs with 1mm thicker wire. The 6mm wire between the retract block and the leg on the Penzoil gradually bent. I replaced that with 8mm wire. Then I had a low level flame out, landed a bit heavily and the leg bent. Additionally with the retracts , several times they failed to lock down for landing causing broken props. I decided enough. I made 1.6mm stainless legs and converted the model into the other fixed u/c Art Scholl version. No further troubles.
(4) The firewall tended to come loose at the top on both models. I beefed things up in that area.
(5) Both cowlings are excellent but the mounting holes quickly elongate unless you reinforce them from the inside.
Just a few thoughts which may be of interest to you.
cg

Hi cg,

I can verify your comments re the helpfulness of Mike Clewes and your observations re the quality of the kit.
Mine went together very well with excellent parts fit.

I suspect that my wing is of the newer version with the gear further forward.

I had also suspected the 6mm wire between the oleo and the retract as a weak point and replaced it with a high tensile peace.

I haven't flown the plane yet. This weekend, I might quite possibly do that. I have a Moki 1.8 in it, as I felt the G38 would be a bit heavy.

Best regards

Ari

I am looking at the Dynaflite 1/5 scale Chipmunk, with the intention of clipping the wings "2 bays" and modifying the rudder, to model one of Art Scholl's Super Chipmunks. I would definitely power it with an OS 1.60FX. However, what little information I am able to get from Dynaflite suggests that the aircraft is not intended for aerobatics. So, I'm guessing that I would have to strengthen the airframe and wing in key areas. I can guess where, but is there anyone else who has experience with this kit, or at least a more general knowledge of what should be strengthened so that the aircraft is capable of withstanding high G forces? Has anyone done this type of modification?

I have no ambitions of doing "3D" manoeuvers, but I would like to be able to duplicate the performance of the real aircraft.

Any feedback or ideas would be appreciated!

Contenderguy,

I would suggest you check with Apache Products in the UK.
Their website is www.apacheproducts.co.uk
Mike Clewes has designed an excellent series of Chipmunks anywhere from the traditional DH Chipmunk to the Pepsi Chipmunk and both versions of Art Sholl Chipmunk (Super Chipmunk).

These are not 100% scale but relatively close and can easily modified.

None of Mike's designs have these restrictions, quite the contrary. Mike runs airshows in the UK where he demonstrates his Chipmunks doing advanced scale aerobatics. His designs are excellent, quite strong and easy to build. Additionally, he is happy to assist and answer queries via e-mail or telephone. Very personal service.
The kits build quick and are strong. Relatively heavy, but this is a big plane and the weight is not excessive. I am convinced you could put lightening holes in the sides and fabricate some frame-up on the sides for a more rounded scale looking plane.

My Super Chipunk is the N13Y retract version and has a 1.8 Moki in it. I am contemplating buying another kit from Mike and fit a G38 in it. It will most likely be the fixed gear version.

Hope this helps

Ari

I built the Dynaflite. I sheeted and glassed the entire plane and made the wing two piece. I added the Robart oleo's and angled the l/g forward just a bit. Mine is flying with a g-26 turning a Zinger 18-6 prop. I have not weighed it, but I'd guess it is at least 14 pounds. I tried to get the equipment moved rearward to isolate it from the gas engine and help with the weight distribution. It ended up ever so slightly tail heavy. It flies fine. I would make the flaps operational. It lands easily without them, but can cover some real estate even on final. It snaps and knife edges well. I have not spun it. You could put servos nearer the tail and use a g-38. The cowling is very narrow. I had to fabricate a firewall mounted muffler to get it all in. Having the rear exhaust layout of the G-38 would make it easier. The plane can handle the weight. The carb sticks out just about 3/8".

Ari,
How was your visit to the States? Did you get your Spacewalker?

fwman,

I haven't been yet, am leaving on Monday.

Sig are out of stock on the Spacewalker but I have managed to locate one from a private individual. This was done through a very helpful hobby shop owner in the area.
Since then, I got somewhat sidetracked by the new GP Stearman but will most likely end up with the Spacewalker though. This is partly due to cost, as the Spacewalker street price is in the vicinity of $340 where the Stearman is $380 plus I would have to buy a motor for another $350 - $400.
At least, I have the motor for the Spacewalker laying around.

What are your opinions on the SW?

Regards

Ari

I don't own one, but I did complete a build on one for a friend who got overwhelmed. It is solidly constructed. A bit different as the fuselage is built in sections and then assembled. The wing has a center and two outer panels. This is neat as you can have the plane on the wheels when the outer panels are removed for transportation. I put smoke (tme) and a G-62 on my friend's. We used the 6 bay length ailerons. Sig koverall sealed with nitrate dope. The finish with all the sunburst and pinstriping between the colors will take some time, but it sure looks good when you get finished. Plan on buying a lot of blue 3M masking tape. The construction book is excellent, as are the materials. For $250 US you can't beat it if you like to build. I painted my friend's with Rustolem red and yellow, followed by Lustercoat crystal clear to seal the pinstriping. The only down to the Rustoleum was that the pinstriping wanted to pull up on the tight turns. I ended up using thin ca on a pin tip to glue it down. This was Sig pinstriping, which has always been trouble free for me, so I blame it on the Rustoleum. You might want to try automotive pinstripe if you use a gasser. I finished it over a year ago and it has not been flown yet, but I hear that all spacewalkers fly great. I've seen a 1/4 scale that certainly flies well. I hope you enjoy your visit. Sorry you'll be on the east side of the state, or we'd try to meet at a flying field. We have a warbird meet this coming weekend.

Thank you Ari.

I've sent an e-mail to Apache Products asking for a price quote.

Allan Bray

Hi fwman,

Thanks for the details re the Spacewalker.
It looks like people from the Hobby Stop in Peachtree City have found me a kit from an individual locally. Last I knew, Sig was out of stock on them.
Yes, it would have been great to be able to come to your warbird meet but unfortunately, business trips are short and sharp (with lots of jetlag)

Contenderguy - sorry if it looks like we are hi-jacking your thread on the Chipmunk. That's not intended.

Ari

Well, the suspense is killing me! I've got to know .......have you flown the Chippie yet?

Thsi Chipmunk flies just as well as it looks. Both low and high speed handling is excellent.

These kits are now being sold by the Original U.S. Manufacturer again but the name of the company has changed from Ohio R/C to Pro Craft. The plane was designed by Bob Ankney and engineered by Mike Cors and Bob Ankney